shoggoth43

I snagged a couple of custom painted Kato SD40s off ebay.  The shells are ok, but the mechanisms need work.  Of course the listing neglected to mention they were used.  One makes a heck of a screech before it gets moving and in general they need to be torn apart, rewired, and then put back together before I even think about putting in decoders.

I'll be using Joe's AutoTransmission Fluid suggestion for the rebuild.  So I've got two questions on this.

1) What should I use to strip out the old lube and gunk?  I've used the 91% rubbing alcohol in the past and I'd prefer the less toxic stuff wherever possible but I'm game to try whatever works.  Suggestions?

2) Some of the mechanisms show some serious tread wear.  Probably not enough to be a big deal, but given the rest of what I'm looking at I'm giving serious consideration to replacing the wheels.  Should I just swap out the wheels with new Kato stock wheels?  Or should I consider code 88 NWSL or something else?

Thanks.

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S

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jbaakko

I'd buy NWSL

I'd buy NWSL wheels... Cleaning the gunk is another topic. 91% isn't very "toxic" compared to just about anything else you'll find to remove grease/oil. Its actually probably the lest toxic. You can try some biodegradable cleaners, such as Simple green or Orange blast though I don't know how they'll react to the plastic (i.e. fragility).
Reply 0
shoggoth43

I've got Simple Green as

I've got Simple Green as well.  I've just never tried it on trucks or gears.  Just on pewter ( or whatever it is these days ) miniatures.  I've also used it on aquariums, but all of that's pretty durable stuff.  That other post about stripping paint and having the shells turn into potato chips or silly putty makes me pretty leery of straying too far off the proven path.  I think for sanity sake I might stick with the rubbing alcohol for now. 

I'm still looking for a source of the Royal Purple ATF Joe mentioned.  I found some other stuff but I'm not sure if that's the "right" stuff to use.  Same problem.  I don't need to find out several years from now that the trucks shatter when I pop covers off to do normal maintenance because I used the wrong stuff.

Thanks for the at least confirming some of my suspicions.

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S

Reply 0
joef

Royal Purple Automatic Transmission Fluid?

Can't find the Royal Purple ATF?

Amazon sells it for less than $15 a quart - and you'll have a life-time supply of plastic safe loco lubricant that will never dry out or turn to gum or paste.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Reply 0
Dave K skiloff

Sounds like another article in MRH

These are some of the topics that I think would be very helpful in MRH.  A few pictures or video of stripping paint with an explanation and bill of materials (and where you got them).  And overall engine maintenance - lubricating, cleaning and general care.  These are things I think many of us aren't sure about.  Obviously, I'm not anyway.  The manufacturers don't really provide much for detailed care and maintenance instructions for their locos, either.

Dave
Playing around in HO and N scale since 1976

Reply 0
shoggoth43

Article

Well, since I'm going to have to tear at least one of them apart anyway and it's not going to be much worse to bring out the camera I'm guessing I might as well do a quick write up on it. 

Joe,

I'll probably go order that stuff now since I think I just volunteered myself for at least one article.  Did you ever get a chance to check that video I sent in to see if it's usable?

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S

Reply 0
joef

Video ...

S:

Oh yes, let me reply offline about the video. Thanks for the reminder.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Reply 0
cwclark

  I'm a 91% alcohol guy but

I'm a 91% alcohol guy but I've heard of some of my other local fellow modeler's using goo-be -gone as well to tackle those tough grease and oil film jobs....chuck.

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