AlienKing

I'm starting to convert my fleet to DCC. I bought a bunch of Digitrax DH165A0 decoders pretty cheap last weekend at TrainFest in Milwaukee, WI so I could get started. I thought my older Atlas locomotives were going to be pretty tough to upgrade, but it's actually a fairly easy process.

First remove the shell of the locomotive. Removing the walkways is optional. I removed them because I'm pretty clumsy and I'd probably break most of the hand rails.

Using an exacto knife or a small screw driver, gently pry the copper wire out from under one of the middle tabs. You could also push it out using a small screwdriver if that's easier for you.

H165AO_1.JPG 


 

Next do the same for the tab on the end of the same side.

H165AO_2.JPG 


 

Now pry out the wire out from under the other middle tab and the wire should spring free.

H165AO_3.JPG 


 

Do the same process for the other wire, and then remove the light if you haven't already. Once all the wiring is removed, gently straiten out the thin copper strips.

H165AO_4.JPG 


 

Remove the plastic lightboard by inserting a knife or very small screw driver between the plastic tab and the lightboard.

Using a piece of the copper wire remove from the light board, make a small U shaped wire to fit in the pair of holes that match up with the copper strips. The end of my needle nose pliers happened to be the right width. Carefully solder them in place.

H165AO_5.JPG 


 

Put the copper tabs into the holes formed by the piece of U-shaped wire and the decoder. Slide the decoder over the plastic tabs until it latches down. Use your knife blade to guide the decoder over the plastic tab; this will greatly reduce the amount of force needed to "click" it into place.

Once the board is in place, fold the copper strips back over themselves. From my testing, this provides enough electrical contact to reliably operate your locomotive, but you could add a dab of solder if you really want to be through.

Gently pry open the metal ends on the pickup wires so they fit over the tabs on the decoder. Don't pry too far; we want the connectors to fit snuggly on the board. Attach all 4 pickup wires. Again, solder if you think its necessary (I don't).

H165AO_6.JPG 


 

Lighting depends on a lot on the individual locomotive. My locomotives had two long pieces of clear plastic that ran to the middle. I trimmed the ends of the plastic just after the attachment points for the roof support. This allowed me to solder my LEDs directly to the decoder and bend them up into place. A few small pieces of electrical tape on the LEDs prevents most of light from spilling into the other end. A small piece of styrene could be glued vertically into the top-middle of the shell to really block out the light if needed.

H165AO_7.JPG 

Reply 0
joef

Top notch post!

AK:

An excellent post!

Concise, easy to follow text and well lit, crisp photos - close enough to see the details.

It doesn't get much better than that!

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

[siskiyouBtn]

Read my blog

Reply 0
Dave K skiloff

Makes it look easy

This post has raised my confidence level a bit that I can do this, too.  I'll have to remember to look for this thread when I start doing my own fleet.

Dave
Playing around in HO and N scale since 1976

Reply 0
mpercy

TCS A6X

I initially liked the Digitrax AO for my installs but have recently started using the Train Control Systems A6X for many of my installations. Best part about the A6X is that it has the option of using 1.5v or 12V. This way if you want to use the existing bulbs from a newer athearn loco you do not have to add resistors and wonder if you got it right. It is also extremely easy to add ditch lights using this decoder. I was able to install my first one in an Athearn SD70 and have the ditch lights flashing in less than 35 minutes including programming.

Reply 0
jeffshultz

Interesting method indeed.

I'm curious why you didn't avoid soldering on the traces of the decoder (something that would give me the willies) by instead soldering a short piece of wire from each copper tab (you could even cut them down in length) to the motor control pads on the decoder?

 

orange70.jpg
Jeff Shultz - MRH Technical Assistant
DCC Features Matrix/My blog index
Modeling a fictional GWI shortline combining three separate areas into one freelance-ish railroad.

Reply 0
AlienKing

RE: Interesting Method Indeed

 Jeff,

I didn't need to solder to the traces.  There are factory made solder points in the decoder right there.  See http://www.digitrax.com/prd_mobdec_dh165a0.phpfor a nice closeup of the board.

 

Reply 0
linwood32

i was wondering if atlas/roco yellow box?

i found this post and i have a few atlas/ roco yellow box to convert. thanks for the post.

 

Reply 0
Reply