Me too!

I too, would like suggestions. Also to operate. Something robust enough so that when I flick with a finger or so, don't break & that when thrown, the turnout changes & a visible indication of it's position. So that when standing 20' away, can see which way the turnout is thrown. It only has to have somewhat of a prototype look.

Three Suggestions:

Central Valley and Rix both offer stands.  Central Valley can be made operational and Rix are designed to be made operational as installed.

I have some Central Valley and one Rix which I still haven't had the urge to try yet.  When I do, I'll offer my thoughts.

Both appear to be tedious to install and made to work. 

Proto87 has a newer one out which I haven't looked closely at yet.

Wolfgang Dudler from Germany who passed away in 2012 posted instructions using Details West stands to make working stands:

http://www.westportterminal.de/switchstands.html

Good luck.

This is one of my favorite topics!

...and an excellent case for the MRH search bar. There have been many excellent discussions and quite a few brilliant mechanisms - but in my experience your "fairly robust and not too fiddly to install" criteria remain unmet.

Moving target

The moving target straight out of the package is my biggest want. I don't have the time or inclination to modify something. If I was going to do that I'd just try to scratch one. The proto87 look to be what I'm after but they look like awfully fiddly little buggers. Between the Rix and the Caboose, I like the looks of the Caboose better. I always get confused with Caboose as to whether I need sprung or rigid. The Peco points already have a spring. I also think the Caboose has it's own little actuating lever which I don't necessarily care about. Again, I'm fine to flick the points with my finger or an uncoupling pick. Other considerations are what's the most scale option and what fits my era of the early 1940's. We all know how out of scale actual Caboose ground throws are, wondering if the switch stands are any better?

caboose

We have over 90 of the HO Caboose ground throws. If they are installed accurately, they work fine, and with a variety of Atlas, Peco, Walthers, Shinohara and "other" turnout brands. However, if you're off by just a little, you will find that the turnout becomes quite problematic as rolling stock will have a tendency split the switch. Of course it also depends on just how fully in spec your wheelsets and other rolling stock characteristics may be.

The other extreme is something like a Tortoise, which has a very wide range of adjustment. You can mount the Tortoise at least 1/8" off center from the track and it will almost always be very reliable, because the spring-loaded throw wire has far more range of motion than the switch points. I haven't measured it, but it's probably nearly twice as much range than the points. Caboose's ground throws have only slightly more range of motion than the throwbar.

I'm not willing to install any more of the Caboose ground throws unless we have some easily adjustable way to mount them. We're considering some simple 3D printed platforms that allow Caboose throw to be adjusted without having to drill holes in the surrounding roadbed. Unfortunately we are still in the design stage so there isn't anything just yet.

Caboose switch stands?

Hi Michael, The Caboose stands are pretty big for HO scale. I use them on my S scale layout(photo) and they work okay. I replace their plastic targets with brass ones I make. For HO scale I'd try the Details west versions like shown in Wolfgang's video. They seem  sturdy and shouldn't be too hard to bend up some wire to activate them from the throw bar movement.....DaveB

The Central Valley Switchstands ...

Central Valley Switchstands work fine, are really cheap (like $1 each) and seem pretty sturdy given the number of times I have dropped the switch I have one mounted to. 

I am going to adapt these to use with Fastracks turnouts and the MP5 switch motors  

Proto:87 version.

I notice Rapido Trains has something new as well.  I think these are what is included in their switch machine/stand combo as well.

And most recently, these wonderful little guys from F&M Models.

Caboose

The spring in a caboose ground throw doesn’t serve the same purpose as the spring in a peco switch.  The peco spring is to hold the points to one side or the other.  The caboose spring is to allow a certain degree of mismatch between the caboose throw and the turnout throw, and allow a little slop for installation.

Personal opinions follow…

The unsprung caboose ground throws need to be pretty well matched to the turnout throw distance (and caboose recommends adding your own spring between the ground throw and the points), and carefully installed.  Which is why I always get the sprung ones.

The unsprung caboose ground throws should have a throw that’s a little larger than the turnout’s throw distance.  The easiest way I’ve found to install caboose ground throws is to hold the turnout points centered (halfway between positions) with little balsa wedges, center the caboose throw, and screw down the caboose.

Interesting!

The Central Valley ones look like I might want to try them. Price is about right. But the web site don't show how to assemble. And one criteria is assembled. At least that's what I though MichaelT said. As I mentioned, my only difference from MichaelT is that I want them to work. Walk along, throw turnout, signal changes. Then, when I'm 20' away, can see which way it's thrown. (And if the wrong way, I can then walk to it and change it. And if the right way, won't have to walk. Kind of like the prototype. Except the proto has a switchman to drop off at the turnout. LOL)

"Working"

I want them to work in the sense that I want the target to rotate when I throw the points. I don't necessarily care about a lever like a Caboose ground throw has. I think I'm going to rule out the Caboose anyway as just being too big. The photo I've seen of the Rix is so grainy that it's hard to tell what it looks like so it's probably out of the running too. That leaves the proto87 and the CVT. The CVT say that they are static but can be modified to move. My question then becomes how easy that modification actually is. The proto 87 are designed from the get go to move. Another  question becomes how easy the different stands are to install with the turnouts already in place on the layout. I don't care whether they are assembled or not but I don't want to pull what little hair I have left out putting one together.

FWIW...

Michael:

https://www.railwayeng.com/handstnd.htm

Durable. But may prove to be too fiddly for your "givens n' druthers".

Andre

That's what I thought.

MichaelT. The reason I got on this thread was because I got the feeling that you and I are after the same or very similar thing. From what I could see of the Central Valley is that they might work for both of us. I found the instruction sheet for CV 1604 on the CV web site. Assembly required. But I'd like to hear from someone that has actually used them. How they did it - so to speak. I don't know about you, but I want to be sure before I spend my money.

mismatch scale

What about N-scale Caboose throws? I remember reading about people mismatching those with a different scale, but I might have the direction backwards (were they using HO throws with N track or vice versa?)

 Well, it's something to consider for a second or two.

What about N-scale Caboose throws?

   N scale caboose throws will work for HO scale but caboose doesn't make N scale switch stands with targets, just the  ground throws. ....DaveB

I've built the CV stands

They work.  The target rotates 90 degrees when the points are moved.  There are pictures in my blog.  You still need a means of holding the points over one way or the other - they don't do that - they simply rotate based on throwbar position.  As pointed out above, instructions are on their website.

In my view, they need some careful filing to work smoothly, but most things do.

They have a clever little plastic cam in the base. 

The Proto:87 version uses an outboard metal cam, but I haven't built one of those. 

Seeing what's what...

Even though I know the Caboose switch stands are probably going to be too big, I ordered a couple through Amazon because I found them there for a little over four bucks a piece. I do like the look of them and maybe I can live with the size, maybe not. I won't know till I see them so at that price, I decided to bite the bullet. Meanwhile I also plan to order some of the CVT stands as well because I want to see them for myself too and they are inexpensive. I just need to scout around and find the best place to order them. At first I had thought I'd make one order that included each kind from my normal go to supplier but the standard shipping charge was going to be 16 dollars! I don't know why it was so high for these small items but it nixed that idea quick.

So that's where I am now...Caboose high level stands on the way and planning on ordering the CVT stands as well. If neither of those pans out for my application then I'll see about the Proto 87 but honestly, when I look at them, I think they'd make me crazier than I already am trying to put them together.

EDIT : I now have the CVT stands on the way too. I ordered them direct at a much better shipping cost. I don't know what was going on with my normal supplier and their shipping cost. Anyway, once everything gets here, I'll probably make a blog entry with a side by side comparison.

Sounds like a plan

MichaelT: That sounds like a plan and should work for you. So now all I have to do is wait and see what you say. Then, it won't cost me so much.As I said, that CV sounds like the way to go. So I hope it is - for you. The assembly don't appeal to me, but if you can do it, so can I. So please update this thread as you proceed with your testing.

Attached are a few photos of

Attached are a few photos of Caboose switchstands on my railroad. Like the prototype I use HO high targets for main track switches and N scale low targets for industry switches.

Although they are a bit large I don't find them objectionable as the prototype ones I threw working as a trainman always had high targets much higher than my 6'-1' height. The Caboose switch stands are rugged and operate well throwing both the points and reversing the target. Try them you'll like them too.  

Barry

@Barry

Thank you for the pics. Interesting looking layout you have there!

CV

MikeH: You say the CV don't "hold" the turnout in position. Question: With PECO, the "little spring" does that. So if I were to connect a CV throw to a PECO turnout, it should work correctly. The switch would show the position and the PECO spring would hold it in place. And when thrown, those two would work in tandem. Correct? And you mention more info in your blog. I'll be looking for how it's installed - to work.

Thanks, Michael: Most of the

Thanks, Michael:

Most of the sceniced railroad is simple and small along the walls with hidden(in other rooms) staging. The railroad simulates an Illinois Railway Museum and it's operations along with a ficticious freight short line. 

The Caboose throws have worked well for me on Atlas and Walthers switches.

Take care,

Barry

Rapido Switch Stands

Michael, if you are still in an exploratory mood, check out Rapido's switch stands. They are described as "can be made to operate", but the video makes it appear pretty straight forward. 

https://rapidotrains.com/products/ho-scale/parts-accessories/ho-scale-railcrew-switch-machine-uncoupler#prettyPhoto

I'm looking forward to your comparison. I'm a big fan of Central Valley, and I'm curious what you make of their switch stands.

On a slightly different topic, Caboose Industries N scale ground throws work fine with HO scale turnouts, as long as the switch point gap isn't overly wide. It easily accommodates the NMRA mechanical gap. (there was some confusion on this topic earlier in the thread) 

@Morgan

The main bit about the CV switchstand is on page 6 of my blog.  That and the directions on the CV website ought to nelp you visualize how things work.  I think if you can extend the throwbar off the Peco and atta h it to the piece that needs to slide to turn the cam on the CV base, you’ll have it licked. 

I would look at the Proto:87 switchstands as well though, as they appear to be designed to be used outboard and with any turnout.  Just expect to wait a while for reply to any questions or an order.  Lol.  I eventually gave up.

Expense

I did the best I could to see what y'all are talking about. Those Proto:87 switchstands look fantastic. But, I am now wondering about the cost. The Proto:87 web site says $5.95 and then says you need to buy a separate target. ?? The CV's we mentioned are 5 for $7 or so, so those would be a heck of a lot cheaper. And look pretty good to me. MikeH: I looked at your blog and only saw an installed one, and can't tell much about installation. And to adapt to a PECO should not be insurmountable. So I might try them. But. As I mentioned before, I'll wait till MichaelT gets his and see how he installs them. So, that will save me a bit of money. My layout is a shelf and I have many turnouts right at the front edge and conceivably it would be nice to have on all my turnouts. Those Proto's could get pretty expensive. And as long as the CV's aren't grossly oversize, would be ideal. Just another project for my future.