Stains

I have used an India Ink and Alcohol mix with great success. Also, the wood stains you can find at hardware stores work well, too with care (Wont thin with alcohol well).

Thanks. I was checking on

Thanks. I was checking on amazon for india ink and everything I found was china ink.

Do you have a link of that product so I can be sure it's the good product?

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Ar

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Drawing-Illustration/Calligraphy/Matte-Waterproof-India-Ink/p/6692
 

This isn’t the same brand as what I have, as it is an old bottle I’ve had for a long while. But this should work. You should be able to to find this at most larger craft supply stores (Pat Catan’s, Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc…)

I checked on amazon and the

 I checked on amazon and the one you told me is 34 canadian dollars. I found another a lot less expensive product but I don't know if it's the equivalent?

Thanks for your help!

also

You can use Arclyic paint also to make not only black but brown and red stains too. On laser kits you get laser burn. What I can't sand off and isn't getting painted I'll paint a wood color first.

Bob 

Watch for warping

Watch for warping, especially if you use anything water based. Put the flat pieces under something heavy while they dry.

Warping

One way to help avoid warping (I do like the "place under heavy objects" technique) is to stain both/all sides of the object. 

Oh, and when placing it under something heavy, make sure there the surface of the heavy object isn't something that will stick - or put something in between it and the stained wood. 

staining wood laser kits

I would like to reinforce the concern with warping, especially when using something like an alcohol/india ink (or alcohol/pigment) wash.  The alcohol contains at least some water.  And in my limited experience, the wood used in laser cut kits is softer or more porous, or something, that makes it warp more easily than basswood sheets.

Several years ago RMC had an insert on building wood kits.  This suggested using a solvent-based stain such as Minwax as a base, specifically golden oak. This has worked well for me, but the downside is that it is also a sealer, so regular wood glues won't hold as well.  One way around that is to use the wood glue and then follow up with gap-filling ACC to make the joint more solid. 

I used to use Floquil paint as a base color, perhaps thinned and rubbed into the wood, but that isn't much of an option any more.  (And for health reasons, this was best done outside, especially if the project was large.)  I have yet to try this with acrylics.

One last comment:  if you aren't planning an interior, or can work around the area where the interior is to go, glue braces across the grain of the wood in the interior - probably 1/8" square minimum if the building isn't too big, 3/16" or 1/4" if it is larger.  Then stain the interior and exterior.  The better the bracing, the less chance of warping.

Tea

I've seen some people use Tea to stain their wood kits and kind a specific kind of look.

Not sure about any warping caused by it...

Here’s my solution - pun intended

Both of these buildings were “stained” using Pan Pastels diluted in alcohol. Minimal to no warping and quick to dry. Mix it up, test on scraps, then go for it.

Rich 

I have had good luck with

I have had good luck with using, first, a spray can primer, then acrylic paint in 70% rubbing alcohol.  I use black and burnt umber as my basic stain.  the primer prevents warping and will strengthen the surface of thin cardboard or mdf.

Good luck.

Try Prismacolor Artists Pens

As much as possible, I pre-stain the wood before assembling wood kits.  Otherwise the wood glue will keep the stain from being absorbed at the joints.  Stains can be oil based (thinned with mineral spirits or turpentine) or water based.  To be safe, use the oil based to prevent warping.  Most interior stains go on transparent (are absorbed into the wood), but stains for exterior finishes like decks and siding come in a variety of finishes from transparent to solid, i.e., they sit on the surface like paint.  Stains can be mixed to just about any wood tone or color you desire.   

 I have also had very good success using Prismacolor brand (alcohol based) markers.  They come as pens with two tips, one thin and one broad.  I’ve not had a problem with warping.  Check their website for colors.  This Bar Mills kit was pre-stained with Prismacolor pens.

Leather Dye

I've used Fiebing's Leather Dye, available in a number of colours. You need to get the ones that are not water based. I used alcohol to thin the product, which gave good results.

You'll find them in places that deal with leather products.  I got mine from a saddlery shop.

Check this out

And this...

If you are into building craftsman kits, he is a good guy to follow.

.There are numerous

.

There are numerous solutions to stain wood parts for kit models

I use various one but I keep in mind the easier to use is the best

India ink and isopropyl wash, shoe dye with alcool, black coffee with alcool, diluted acrylic paint, oily paint wash with mineral spirit, tissue ink, paint for glass and the list is endless

In fact we need to just to stain the wood not to paint it

These stains need to be light and not heavy and flow like water

Isopropyl alcohol is an excellent medium to stain wood

There are also companies  which offer ready to use wood stain I have used Hunterline wash with excellent results, Best Trains also offer a new line  of wash I recently used with excellent results 

http://www.hunterline.com         www.besttrains.com
 

I highly invite you to take a look at the Jason Jensen videos, most of them feature laser kit construction and staining wood methods 

https://m.youtube.com/c/JasonJensenTrains/videos
 

He also show how to brace wood kit to avoid warping