What are you trying to stick

What are you trying to stick to the brass?

One thing that I've learned

One thing that I've learned is that Gorilla brand ACC seems to last a LOT longer than other brands. I routinely have bought small bottles (1oz) of ACC (superglue) over the years and used a few dozen drops of each before it degrades or solidifies. It only seems to take a year or a year and a half, too. Gorilla seems to have some kind of different formulation, so that apparently lasts much longer. They don't have as wide a selection of the types, though. I've only seen a medium thickness one, more like a thin gel than a liquid.

If I understand your use case correctly, you want to glue brass tabs to each other, possibly using capillary action? In such a case, you really do want a thin ACC. Unfortunately, my last bottle of thin ACC, which I was generally pleased with ... hardened and got tossed about a year ago.

Brass to what?

For brass to plastic ca glue should work. For brass to brass solder would be better...DaveB

Acc shelf life = fridge

Keep your opened bottle of ACC in the fridge or freezer. It will last for years. The fridge takes the moisture out of the air keeping the ACC "fresh".

DaveB, I concur. Though I

DaveB, I concur. Though I have used epoxy to glue brass to brass with success, but it was gluing a dome to a boiler.

Refrigerate it

Heard that long ago, and I think it works

Fridge

A. What’s the cap for on the container?

B. How long does someone need between glue projects?

C. It’s $5 

Loctite ACC

I use an ACC made by Loctite.  It has a different cap design then the others and it seals tight.  I have used the same bottle going on two years and it open and closes each time.

I will snap a photo of the bottle the next time I'm in the workshop.

Andy H

Minooka, IL

Late to the party…

Just got in to find many answers and some questions. first thank you for replies. The two tabs are made of brass that should have been soldered well to the line up against the interior brass loco chassis. The two brass tabs hold a side skirt in place at the bottom of my brass 44 T. This was apparently not well soldered to begin with. The loco fell off my loco stand landed on a glass table on my desk.  (My bad!) Without major damage but a displacement of the lower skirt. The outside of the tab has already been painted and cured as bottom of chassis was painted as well. So much for soldering with a low solder stick. Don’t want to ruin the paint on the chassis either.  Thin glue was recommended, small drop to wick in. Recommended stabilizing placement of skirt by lining up two tabs and going from there. Only have one shot in two places to secure that. 
 

maybe I can place a movie of it here. Not sure I can upload it. Any help with uploading a short movie would clarify the position I am in.

Photo of one of two tabs

Side view separation without support photo

Picture #2. Side skirt with tab push in skirt aligned

What would you do?

Hope that the photos give more accurate information. 
what would you do?

Thanks for your expertise and or advice.

gluing the tab

If it doesn't take too much pressure to push the skirt in place you could probably glue it with ca. or maybe epoxy. If there is a lot of load on the joint ca glue might not hold long term as it gets brittle, epoxy is a bit less brittle so might be better long term. You might be able to solder the joint back together without burning the paint off the skirt, depends on what kind of solder was used and how long it takes to melt it. A resistance soldering unit would be the best way to solder it ,if you know someone that has one. I think I'd try the glue first   :> ) ..  ....DaveB

what about?

Just throwing this out there for others to comment on, haven't tried it for something like this.

What about pliobond or barge cement? 

I'm unclear on what holding power is required for this situation, but if its only moderate, like keeping the boiler from jumping off the running gear, then either of the above might work, since they work for rail-to-wood. The glue remains rubbery and will fill any gaps between the tabs.

Dave B. The skirt is the

Dave B. The skirt is the lightest piece on this chassis. As for soldering, I was told that the paint would have to come off on top of the two tabs. That presents a problem as the paint is well cured on top.  So a fellow modeler with resistance equipment said no resistance soldering. As for soldering with a regular iron and low heat solder stick plus liquid flux I am not sure. Thin cyanoacrylate was suggested but may run to beyond the inside to the finished side of the skirt. 
what kind of epoxy might one use?  is there a one step epoxy that is thin? 

EW. I have a tube of pilobond, but this application is brass to brass. I use pilobond for rail to tie applications.

is there a one step epoxy that is thin?

There are thin epoxies but I don't know if they are available in small modeler size quantities. I used thin epoxy to saturate wood when I was building boats.  A medium ca might be liquid enough to seep under the tab but not to the outside of the joint. I guess you could get it all ready then spray the outside of the crack with zip kick then apply the ca to the tab , that might stop bleed thru as the ca would harden as it approached the seam?  If I wanted to solder it I'd scrape or grind the paint off the tab top then hook the ground to the frame and apply the probe to the tab and see if the original solder melts quickly. With wet paper towel on the outside of the skirt the paint might only get damaged on the walkway where it would be pretty easy to fix. If we keep this thread going someone will come along who's had this problem and actually fixed it..   :> ) ...DaveB

100% Glue

I don’t know why they call this stuff 100% Glue, but it works good for glueing different materials together. It dries rubbery and flexible but has no odour. I find that I am using this stuff all the time.

https://www.lepage.ca/en/lepage-products/fix-stuff/multipurpose-glue/hundred-percent/100_glue_.html

I found some stuff that might be promising

It’s Loctite super glue, ultra Gel control.

no drip, no run, impact and water resistant, flexible as can take a knock.

I will experiment with it on some surplus  brass pieces I have. Use sparingly on one side and hold together for 15 to 30 secs. Full cure in 12 to 24 hours. Will experiment.

will report back. Thank you DaveB and Brentglen. I did see LePage 100% glue today on shelves. It seems to have similar properties as the Loctite ultra gel control.  
 

ultra Gel control.

  I use it for some tasks. It's a gel so won't flow much under the tab but you might be able to squirt it on and force it under before it sets up.Perhaps use your finger in a rubber glove ?  You could also likely apply it to the inside of the skirt seam without it leaking thru so might be able to get a larger glued area. ....DaveB

Gel

Dave, I thought the same. It takes 15 to 30 sec to set. I can lift up the tab a hair and push the gel under press down on it with a chop stick or other.  I think that will work for the two tabs. Once lined up I will see about skirt seam. Great idea. Thx.

They weren’t kidding 15 seconds folks!

right side oxide red door to the emergency fuel cut off valve

center below louvres doors silver square GE builders plate

vertical slot looking thingy,  encased glass fuel level.

I will add these parts on the formerly injured skirt.

Message for some reason was not saved.

The 15 seconds were three areas that the Loctite ultra control gel engaged the part. Brushed under two tabs and a end ladder under frame. Skirt placed well enough, my fear that it would stick out as it was bent in the fall did not. 
padding the details I must scratch build when skirt completely cured.

but the pilot stripes are next. Probably next week if I have free time.

thanks to all that participated. I was more brave doing this with the support and experience you shared.