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Active Member 83 posts Tim Bratcher Active Member 83 posts
Tim Bratcher

I've been messing about with the laser cutter.  Work has been busy over the last few months and we recently moved and are still trying to get organized, so in between work and projects (usually in the middle of the night) I try to refine my skills with the laser.  Recent work on that has led to the attached photos of a doorway.  I designed this in Inkscape (a good, free drawing program) and cut it out of Polybak and a Fiber One cereal box.  Polybak is a resin impregnated kraft paper used in furniture manufacturing, available by mail order at https://distributorserviceinc.com/. 

One of the most complicated parts of this is designing the part in "layers," meaning that there are some surfaces that are behind the "wall," some are in front of it, and some are layered on top of others.  Trying to keep track of that is challenging, at least to me.  You have to design one part, and then design the part that might rest below it and the part that has to rest on top of it.  You can see the depth of it in the sideways shot.  This door at five layers--two of which were Polybak and three of which were cereal box.

The next most complicated thing is taking into account the "kerf" of your laser.  Lasers cut a very thin line, but they do leave a kerf just like a saw blade.  I think mine is about .003" if I have the focus perfectly set.  Well, if you're cutting something that a lot of cuts (like a window with mullions), then you have take that kerf into account.  It can add up and really start to show when you line up your parts for gluing. 

Anyway, just thought I would share this.  Can't wait for work to settle down and to get fully moved in to so I can turn my attentions to building a complete structure.

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trailguy Regular poster 134 posts
trailguy

Laser cutting millwork

Nice looking door. I use a local maker space for laser access. You don’t mention how the parts were “assembled”, though. Here’s my solution for that part of the process: 3M-467 adhesive transfer tape (ATG). I apply it to the backside of the material that I’m going to laser, then just peel off the backing paper and stick everything together. I’ve used the 6” wide roll ATG on laser board, 1/64” plywood, and card stock with great results. It even sticks well to whatever clear glazing I’m using for glass. I’ve sourced it through Amazon and Walmart (Zappos linked). Please post more.

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Rich in CO
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Ken Hutnik huthut Regular poster 191 posts
Ken Hutnik huthut

Very nice

A laser cutter is on my future tool list. I have been reading about cutting and layering. Thanks for sharing!

Ken
My projects: Ken's Model Trains
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john holt Regular poster 399 posts
john holt

Is any particular brand of

Is any particular brand of laser cutting machine suitable for our modeling needs? How about some buying tips? What machine do you use?
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Douglas Meyer Prolific poster 2,039 posts
Douglas Meyer

Sadly you have inexpensive

Sadly you have inexpensive but weak and or hard to use (say sub 700) and you have powerfull and or easier to use say 1500-5000+  and that is about it.  I keep looking and my ideal matching is about 2000-2600,  But I will probably end up (some day) buying one for about 1600.  In the mean time I may buy a cheep Chinese K40 for about 600, just to practice with.but buy the time you add the upgrades needed you are at 750-1000, so may not be worth the cost.

There is a whole sub hobby and discussions about Chinese vs US or European machines, what power level, what the real power actually is, what hardware type what controller and what software etc.  it gets very complicated very fast.  But sadly the cost has not came down in a LONG time on those where as 3D printers are getting better and cheeper all the time.  I would rather have a 3D printer but for $600 I can get a weak troublesome laser that needs hundreds of dollars in upgrades or i can get a pretty good 3D printer that will work fine for hobby use.

-Doug M
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Bernd MRH Author 5,556 posts
Bernd

Amazon sells lasers

Take a look at Amazon. Quite a variety of lasers available. I'd look for something in the 40W to 50W range.

https://www.amazon.com/desktop-laser-cutter/s?k=desktop+laser+cutter&page=2

Bernd

New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds - NCSWIC
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Tim Bratcher Active Member 83 posts
Tim Bratcher
I am far from an expert on lasers, but I bought the OMTech (from Amazon) 55-watt Chinese laser with a 16 x 20 cutting bed.  I am surprised at how easy it is to use.  It is almost as easy as printing, once everything is set up.  I spent about $2500 on mine.  I will say this:  Now that I have played around with it, I do not believe I needed the power and size of what I got.  In hindsight, I would have probably gone with a much smaller and less powerful laser, because I think it would have done everything I have ended up doing on my in relation to HO model railroading.  I've yet to cut something greater than 1/8" and most stuff is in the 0.010 to 0.100 inch range.  I think it's easy to have "must have more" syndrome.  I know I had it!
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Steve H New member 4 posts
Steve H
Hmmm, I'm using a 20w Ortur with air assist and it works great on cutting windows and doors.  Im only in for about $400.  On some materials I have to make a few passes to cut through, but I have more time than money. I design in Sketchup and export as a dxf file into Lightburn.  Maybe some day I will upgrade to a CO2 laser, but for now I'm making stuff and its great fun.

Steve H
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Tim Bratcher Active Member 83 posts
Tim Bratcher
I've wondered about the Ortur lasers. They seem up to the task as much as my behemoth. One thing that I do recommend (and which you mentioned) is Lightburn. I would consider that a "must have."
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