Westcoastgills

I started ballasting the track I have laid on my layout.  I have been using video guides posted on YouTube and the like.  Before I lay the ballast down I have been painting the track to give it a somewhat weathered look, and somehow it actually turned out good.  But after the ballast is laid down, glued and dries, the ties get a white residue on them which clearly defeats the purpose of the weathering effect.  Any suggestions on how to prevent that?  I use the alcohol and then Scenic cement method.


Cheers,

 

Gills

Reply 0
jTrackin

I'm doing trials at the

I'm doing trials at the moment and I'm mostly disturbed by sound and have progressed but I want to mostly paint my track before gluing and then I have avoided the white stuff but I will touch up with pan pastel

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/sounds-of-silence-continuing-with-new-12210897

 

James B

Reply 0
Jackh

One Solution

I have seen some folks using an eye dropper, putting a drop in-between ties. Slow going and takes some patience.

You need to be careful squeezing it out because you can flood the spot and it can run over the tie tops.

Maybe someone else has a different idea. I have always used the spray bottle method and your right it leaves a coating on the ties.

Jack

Reply 0
jTrackin

That is what I use but you

That is what I use but you need to get rid of any white residue.  It is all to with the glue (type) and wetting recipe.

James B

Reply 0
Steves VR

Try Mod Podge Matte

I use Mod Podge Matte diluted with water(1:3 ), no residue at all. I have found though the ballast could still be a little crumbly after one application of the glue mix, maybe I didn't apply enough, however a 2nd application does the job and is very quick to apply with eye dropper.

 

@James B,

I'm following your thread on noise control. I have found the quietest running was on Masonite spline, the noisest; track on on foam /track on cork on foam.

Regards,

Steve.

Reply 1
barr_ceo

Noise

Quote:

I'm following your thread on noise control. I have found the quietest running was on Masonite spline, the noisest; track on on foam /track on cork on foam.

Well, yeah... not exactly an apples to apples comparison though... the foam board is like a drum head, a large, stiff but slightly flexible tympanic surface resonating with the vibrations of the movement of the train. The spline is a knife edge, with little to no resonating surface, and in many cases barely attached to the surrounding scenery. The spline is most rigid in the direction(s) of highest vibration. 

If you were to make a spline of foam (a stiff, narrow strip isolated from the sounding board of the surrounding scenery), I'd wager you would see a significant reduction in sound from the "foam prairie" slab approach of track on cork on foam. I'm equally sure that if you laid a piece of masonite flat as is usually done with foam, it would be as loud or louder when trains ran.

I use foam anyway for several reasons.

1) It's extremely lightweight, an especially critical property for my circumstances.

2) It requires no power tools... since I'm in a small apartment in an assisted living center, this is also critical. I can assemble an entire T-Trak module with nothing but a knife and a hot glue gun.

3) I can get it in manageable sizes. Lowe's offers "project panels" of one inch green foam in two foot by two foot squares.

 

 

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Reply 0
gmpullman

Mod-Podge

I've been happy with the results of my ballast work using the Matte Mod Podge as well.

One thing I've gotten in the habit of doing is to use only distilled water for my wetting solutions and for thinning both paints and PVA-type glues. Generally only a dollar-or so a gallon in most areas. You may have just enough mineral content in your tap water to make a residue form.

Good Luck, Ed

Travel and Sleep In Pullman Safety and Comfort!

Reply 1
Rick Sutton

gmpullman

Good point on the distilled water. A gallon lasts me for close to a year........and it DOES make a positive difference.

Reply 0
Steves VR

Yes, interesting point about

Yes, interesting point about distilled water.

I'm on tank water, so never really thought about mineral content.

Reply 0
Pennsy_Nut

Or alcohol..

I use 1 pt Mod Podge mixed with 3 pts 70% alcohol plus a few drops dish soap. I have not noticed any white spots or such. I suspect that distilled water is also acceptable, since you've now mentioned it. But I chose alcohol mainly because I had some. I would have to go out and buy distilled water. So, I guess this is a matter of choice. The spots might be caused by the hardness or softness of the tap water. I remember years ago when I had to soften my water, that there were occasional problems, sometimes by the soft water and sometimes by the hard. Not sure about all this since I'm not an expert. Just my input as to using alcohol instead of tap water. (Another thought would be if you filter the water. Such as a Brita. That might factor in too.)

Morgan Bilbo, DCS50, UR93, UT4D, SPROG IIv4, JMRI. PRR 1952.

Reply 0
ctxmf74

  "after the ballast is laid

Quote:

"after the ballast is laid down, glued and dries, the ties get a white residue on them which clearly defeats the purpose of the weathering effect."

I wonder if this area could be fixed by spraying a thin layer of Dullcoat over the white residue? or maybe a dusting of chalk or pan pastels?   It will be interesting to see if switching to distilled water solves it as you move forward....DaveB

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