ray schofield

I  just  bought anew Proto (Walthers) GP9 It is a DC unit so want to  install sound The included instructions  say to refer to removing the body.. I see nothing like that on the instruction  sheet.  So I  called  Walthers for help. GOOD  LUCK WITH   THAT THE RECORDED REPONSE  WAS THEY WOULD GET BACK TO MEI N 4-5 DAYS

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blindog10

Chainsaw time!

Just kidding.  This isn't a Rapido RS11.

(From memory)  Remove the fuel tank and coupler boxes.  You'll see two more screws above the tank.  Remove them and the shell should slide right off.

Scott Chatfield 

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jimfitch

I have one also that is DCC

I have one also that is DCC ready coming.  I didn't see in the details for the Proto  GP9 what kind of DCC plug it had.

 

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

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ray schofield

It is a LOK sound decoder  21

It is a LOK sound decoder  21 pin  Thanks 

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ray schofield

gp9

Scott looking at the parts blow up  you are probably right, no thanks to  Walthers

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ray schofield

GP9

I  got  the shell off it appears there are to plastic tabs also connecting the shell and  frame. The box says Tsunami,but obviouslt a LOK sound mother board

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blindog10

Not "Lok Sound"

It's just a generic 21-pin motherboard made by Walthers.   I've put LokSound 21-pin daughter boards  in mine,  so they do work with LokSound.

Scott Chatfield 

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jimfitch

Sounds good.  I have some 21

Sounds good.  I have some 21 PIN LokPilot decoders on hand for the DCC ready Proto GP9.  I also ordered one of the sound equipped as well.

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

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Nick Santo amsnick

It would be interesting to see a picture of the

motherboard without the decoder or dummy board when you get the shell off.  Please and thanks!

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

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ray schofield

PICTURES

REQUEST ANSWERED%5B1%5DS.JPG %5B1%5DS.JPG 

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blindog10

Exactly like the Mainline GP9

I have two of the Walthers Mainline GP9s.  Exact same drive.  Runs very nice.

Scott Chatfield 

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jeffshultz

Seems like...

Everyone is going to those JST plugs on their motherboards. I've run into them on a Fox Valley GP60 and a Bowser GMD SD40-2, both HO scale.

I haven't made up my mind if this is a good thing or not, but I do know that I'd prefer to buy a bunch of the connectors cheap on Ebay rather than $1.50 apiece at Scale Sound Systems. Anyone know what size they are? There appear to be a million different, not exactly interchangable JST plugs out there.

orange70.jpg
Jeff Shultz - MRH Technical Assistant
DCC Features Matrix/My blog index
Modeling a fictional GWI shortline combining three separate areas into one freelance-ish railroad.

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Nick Santo amsnick

Hi Ray,

Thank You for the picture!

Now I know I have a Buddy that could help if you ever wanted any more lights, speaker or stay alive (2 or 3 wire).

Thanks again!

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

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blindog10

JSTs are good.....

....for the folks assembling models in a factory.  Not so good for the minority of customers who install their own decoders.  And don't kid yourselves, that minority is shrinking.

I haven't looked for them on the interweb, but I'm sure the male versions can be found pre-wired for less than a buck-fifty per.

Scott Chatfield 

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jimfitch

For those less knowledgeable,

For those less knowledgeable, are the JST connectors the 21 PIN connectors or something else?  Splain please.

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

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Nick Santo amsnick

Hi Jim

The 21-pin connector is associated with the decoder.  It is really a 22-pin with one pin missing (in the number 11 position) so that it is keyed.  This makes it so the board only fits in in one direction.  Below is a picture of a Decoder Buddy Mini with a 21-pin connector that is labeled.  It is ready to accept a decoder.  The style of 22-pin connector can be bought in a number of different configurations.

5B1EA7A.jpeg 

In the pictures that Ray sent me above the JST connectors are the white plastic boxes.  Each one that is attached to the board is a soldered connector.  It requires a mating plug connected to wires that continues out to make an electrical connection ot a device.  The device can be a speaker, a light, maybe a stay alive, and etc.  As Jeff Schultz has indicated, it might be nice to know where to get the mating plugs.  The plugs will still have to be connected to the device and maybe through a resistor as well.  This would involve soldering most likely.  If a resistor was needed for an LED more soldering and heat shrink as well.  It you could find a pin that would fit in the unused multiple pin connector a crimping tool would be useful to crimp the pin onto a piece of proper gauge wire and that could be soldered to the device and inserted into the JST connector.  Scott Chatfield mentioned that JST connectors are for the convenience of the manufacturer not the modeler.  They are not particularly versatile.
 

My personal fix to the JST issue was to make a motherboard that included resistors for the LEDs that I would use and manufacturer a motherboard that amplified all the available outputs and added proper resistors to those outputs. I also added amply sized soldering pads on a detachable connector board for LED lights in the shell and  also a couple on the frame, pads for speakers, 2 and 3 wire stay alives, motor and track connections.

D651220.jpeg 

motherboard connects to frame 

B7AD66A.jpeg 

Small connector board connects on the right side of the motherboard and has connection for all the available lighting outputs on a 21-pin connector.  Resistors for all the outputs protect the LEDs.

E132873.jpeg 

This is an installation with a Light Test Board so that movement, sound and all the lighting functions in the locomotive can be tested on the program track before placing the shell with the LEDs in place on the locomotive.

BB07C9F.jpeg 

This is the small connector board with an additional positive common red wire attached to identify each LED and test it while attaching the wire.  The small connectors board can be added to the motherboard and assembly of the shell and frame can be completed. 
 

You may assume that I am not a fan of JST connectors. ( ;> ) )  On the other hand if you are happy with the lights and outputs given to you, pop in your 21-pin decoder and smile on!  
 

Hope this helped.

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

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jimfitch

Thanks for explaining how the

Thanks for explaining how the jat differ.

 

I assume the 21 pin was adopted because the 8 or 9 pin didn't have enough outputs for say lighting functions.  So if 21 pins aren't enough as you hint, what would be the extra needed for?

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

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Nick Santo amsnick

Hi Jim,

I think it was that Europeans use more non lighting functions than we do.  A need for servos, smoke units, working couplers, pantographs, opening/closing doors, controlled stay alives and etcetera seems to have driven their decoders in that direction.  ESU had the first 21-pin connector widely available in the US and might have been the originator.  I don’t know for sure.  The first ESU 21-pin decoders only had 8 function outputs, four for lights and four for logic functions.  The logic functions are not available directly for lights but can control servos, smoke, stay alives and etcetera.

The same is still true.  I like lights and can use all 12 lighting functions easily on diesel locomotives.  Now there are still 4 or 6 lighting level outputs and the balance are logic level outputs.  What I have done is converted the logic level voltage on the balance of the outputs and added the resistors for them on the board.  I have left a logic level access for a stay alive on the original and V5B Decoder Buddys and on the Mini I left access for a stay alive and a smoke unit at logic level.

Another benefit of the Decoder Buddys is their size.  Atlas used the QSI decoder with (ug) JST connectors that would not access extra functions and were much shorter than the common decoders.  Since that was what I needed, I used the small form factor for my design.  Consequently the Decoder Buddy fits easily into most locomotive needing either upgrade or conversion to DCC.  The Mini was developed for very tight spaces and is just slightly longer than the 21-pin decoder.

Thanks for asking!  
 

Here’s a locomotive I am currently working on with scale size fixture, working ground lights that are lit.

3C9F706.jpeg 

I can just make out the fixture with the LED inside and shining on the truck and ground.  It is definitely worth all the effort to me.

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

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