Yup

Seen it early on and thought that the model would have to be stripped or tossed. Isopropyl alcohol and Dullcote don't always play well together. The respray of Dullcote usually corrects the problem but sometimes slight discoloration may remain. I just call it a "weathering opportunity".

Spray again

What you see is a reaction between the Dullcoat and alcohol. I understand this haze will disappear with another Dullcoat application.

But....your decal work may need some revision. Are you working from a prototype photo? What I usually see are two different applications. First, the railroad herald is usually in the next panel to the right. The current placement would be hidden when the car door is open. That area beside the car door usually has very little lettering.

Secondly, the reporting marks and data to the left of the door are usually applied in the next panel to the left. In the steam era, these elements were closer to the area above the left bolster. The lower half of this PDF illustrates the lettering guidelines established in 1927. There were adjustments over the next few decades, but the element locations have remained the same into the late 1950s.

When decaling a model, I recommend using a prototype photo to guide your work.

Eric

+1 spray again

Another spray of dullcote worked for me when I learned this same lesson. It was like a time machine back to right before alcohol/ink and I was able to start over. However, the wiping marks may remain discernable.

Dull coat then alcohol

is sometimes used as a fade coat before weathering. and if you don't know now you know ....DaveB

A very long time ago before

today's popular way to fade a boxcar came to be, I remember an article someone did that involved using Dullcoat and alcohol to produce a pretty realistic looking faded affect.  Now that your fear has subsided and you realize this can all be returned, you might try purposely fading a car this way.  I think the key was to wash the car first and then apply the Dullcoat in a uniform thickness all over the car.

Thanks for the replies

Thank you for all of the replies.  I did indeed respray with dullcoat and hazing was reversed.  Glad to know it wasn't completely ruined. 

Eric,  Thank you for your comments about the decal work.  And for the letter guidelines.  I'll keep those handy for the future.  I was working from prototype photos, but realized a bit too late that the photos I was using had a different number of panels.  So when I counted the panels to determine the location, they were off.  The only one I'm really unhappy with is the large CNW herald on the right side.  Unfortunately, I realized that "something didn't look quite right" about two minutes after the decal had dried and try as I might, it didn't want to move.  But overall, I'm content with it.  And since I don't have any additional decals, I'm just going to run it as is.  I don't consider myself a rivet counter. 

When you want to put a wash

When you want to put a wash over Dullcote, and you aren't deliberately going for the alcohol fade effect, use an oil paint wash or a water-based acrylic wash. 

enamel wash

yep, alcohol on dullcoat will haze.  I have been using enamel washes sold by Mig and AK Interactive, they are amazing.  The are used by military modelers but don't let that stop you from using them on model railroad stuff, they are magic in a bottle.

here is a video i did using enamel washes, its a two parter