railandsail

I recently acquired one of these little switchers that is missing the front boiler cover and the water heater,..

https://ho-scaletrains.com/ahm-0-8-0-switcher/
 

 

Anyone have an old one not being used? I might try to revive this old guy that appears to be in good shape minus these parts.

Brian

1) First Ideas: Help Designing Dbl-Deck Plan in Dedicated Shed
2) Next Idea: Another Interesting Trackplan to Consider
3) Final Plan: Trans-Continental Connector

Reply 1
CandOfan

how old?

Lots of these were produced with flanges deeper than RP25...

I have to say that this prototype is pretty rare and unusual - a 3-cylinder switcher owned by a Class III road that few people know, in a total class of three units. There are a lots and lots of railfans and model railroaders whose only knowledge of the Indiana Harbor Belt is this model...

Modeling the C&O in Virginia in 1943, 1927 and 1918

Reply 1
Patrick Stanley

An Option to Your Inquiry

Since you are likely not trying to model the IHB, why not place any smokebox cover that will fit into the locomotive. There are many replacement parts around in various diameters. You may even have one or two in your piles of "stuff". As for the Elesco feedwater heater (the round thing on the top pf the smokebox), you can choose to ignore it, or replace it with the same or another design (also available as parts) and create a locomotive that is unique to your layout.

Just a thought.

Espee over Donner

Reply 1
oldstuff

little switcher

I'm intrigued. If the IHB 0-8-0 is your little switcher I'd be interested to see your big switcher

 

Jon Price

Modelling trains running into Fort Dearborn just pre WW2 in H0

Reply 1
LensCapOn

"I'm intrigued. If the IHB

"I'm intrigued. If the IHB 0-8-0 is your little switcher I'd be interested to see your big switcher"

 

Since in the current era a SD-40-2(3) is a little switcher maybe starting at a 70-MAC?

Old style there was a 0-10-2 and NYC had a group of 0-8-8-0's for hump yards.

 

0-10-2.jpg 

 

0-8-8-0.jpg 

Reply 1
GeeTee

Boiler Front

 

Brian , this is the best I could find , looks like 26 other people have lost their "covers"!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/332294994699?hash=item4d5e533b0b:g:v5oAAOSw9GhYk2F6

Reply 1
txlarr

Info About Those 0-8-0s

I agree with Patrick Stanley's recommendation to "build" a smoke box front for your 0-8-0.

I have two of these 0-8-0 switchers.  I have re-motored one with a Canon DN 26 and added weight to the loco and tender.  Also, I added front and rear LEDs and converted the tender to oil bunker. The other loco is a To-Do.

A bit of info about the Rivarossi 0-8-0  - - - -  Rivarossi began production of this 0-8-0 in 1960 based on a prototype of three locomotives (#100 thru #102) built in 1927 by the Brooks Works of the American Locomotive Company for the Indiana Harbor Belt Railroad (IHB). Th IHB Railroad was formed in 1907 after the combination of many smaller switching railroads in the Chicago area. It did heavy switching work along the great lakes areas. These locos were often referred to as "Super 0-8-0" and were used for shunter work of heavy loads and multiple car movements. The #102 was the basis for the Rivarossi model. The prototype locos had the normal two cylinders plus a third cylinder in the center and an auxiliary Booster on the front truck of the tender. It was a heavy and powerful loco having a larger than usual boiler. This Rivarossi model was produced from 1960 thru 1977 and was one of the best sellers in the Rivarossi product line. Initial Rivarossi production runs did not include the details of the center cylinder or the auxiliary booster; however, these were added in later runs. 

There were 3 different powered versions of the Rivarossi Super 0-8-0 because of improvements to the motor and drive train: the first version had a tender mount motor with a drive shaft to the loco's #3 axle gearbox, second version had a horizontal shaft motor in the loco cab with a transfer gearbox to the #3 gearbox drive shaft, and the third version had a vertical shaft motor with a worm on that shaft driving the worm gear on the #3 axle.  My two models are both the second version.

 

Steve Gratke

Reply 1
railandsail

too expensive

That front cover part you referenced is priced at $26 + 6 freight.=32,... a bit too pricey.

Why so pricey when you can buy a docksider shell for just over $10 (from the same people)??

 

 

Reply 1
Benny

...

There are a lot of cases where parts are worth a whole lot more than partially complete or even whole locomotives.

--------------------------------------------------------

Benny's Index or Somewhere Chasing Rabbits

Reply 1
railandsail

With all this modern 3D

With all this modern 3D printing, ....and casting,  I would imagine someone could duplicate these parts a lot cheaper,...and still at a profit??

Seems as though quite a number of these manufacturers that have things built overseas fail to have any spare parts on order?

I'm also having trouble finding the plastic fuel tank part for a Genesis FP 45 (another subject thread)
https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/athearn-genesis-parts-fuel-tank-molding-12217247

 

 

Reply 1
CandOfan

give these folks a break

Although I agree with you in general, this particular model hasn't been made since the 1970s, the better part of half a century before 3D printing became a real thing.

Modeling the C&O in Virginia in 1943, 1927 and 1918

Reply 1
txlarr

“Since the 1970s”

CandOfan - I read your post during a break at the “Y”.  It made me chuckle and that’s good - I needed that, thanks. The city library has a bank of 3D printers so hope to take a course there. I maybe could make parts for  my HO steamers that are all products of the 1950s thru 1980s. I  currently love upgrading and updating these old locos that nobody makes. Heck, I am a product of 1941. 

Steve Gratke

Reply 1
GeeTee

Printing the part

I doubt you could sell enough parts to cover the engineering time  . Building from castings would probably cost less but is it really worth it to save $10 . by the time you buy the cover , feedwater heater , headlight , headlight bracket..... I don't think you'd save that much.

The best option is to wait and try and locate a wreck ...but even then judging by what I've seen , you'll probably have 8 or 9 other people to bid against.

The trend now is to put stuff on ebay at 3-5 X market value , and if doesn't sell , disassemble it and sell off the parts to try and recover the money. So you end up with a lot of stuff that's missing parts. You see it with freight cars too , they yank the bottoms out , and sell the shells and bottoms separate.

If you really want to use it , the cheapest option is probably to look for whole one and use the one you have as a parts loco.

Manufacturer / importers don't want to carry parts, they want to buy and turn in 90 days . Money tied up in parts just sits on the shelf for 10 years .  That's cash that's tied up not doing anything.

Reply 1
railandsail

parts diagram

 

just happened across this parts diagram that I thought I would post in case I can run across my part, or other parts that might be needed.

Reply 1
Patrick Stanley

The Part Number

For this boiler front is P-137-001 according to the above diagram

After reading this com-node I remembered that I used to have a AHM Parts catalog. I found it. It was published in 1977. It shows three versions of this locomotive. One with the motor horizontal as in the above diagram. This was the first version released in 1969. The next two versions; the first in 1974 had a vertically mounted motor with the same part # for the boiler front. It also had a truck mounted coupler on the rear tender and NO traction tire on the loco drivers.

The final version from 1977 also had the vertical motor but other revisions to the locomotive itself. The boiler front has a new # with the last production; P-135-005. It appears that this newer version also includes a headlight lens not showing in the first two versions which is probably the best identifying feature of this last version. Both the early and late versions had a traction tire on the locomotive.

I used to be able to get some parts from AHM years ago, BUT since they are gone so are the parts. There may be a wild chance that it is out there somewhere if you want to do a search for the part #(s), Either one would work for you.

Espee over Donner

Reply 1
railandsail

I recall missing or losing

I recall missing or losing the front boiler cover (with the flying pumps) for an IHC mountain C&O loco. Eventually i found one. Just have to take a little time,...or perhaps find a good home for the loco I have, sense I have enough locos already.

 

 

Reply 1
rbturner

Boiler front

If you can PM me I have a friend who worked with me making resin replacements. He has made me 6 so far and did the feed water heater too.

Reply 1
railandsail

Did that PM

Did that PM

Reply 1
MikeHughes

Looks like a simple scratch build

Build up layers of styrene cut a bit over size. Put a bolt through it (maybe it’s where where the headlight ends up?) Chuck the body in a drill press and file round to size plus a step to install into the boiler. Since you say $32 is too much (I agree) spend your time, and not your money. 

Reply 1
railandsail

Lucked out

I've been rather lucky lately. I found a source for the fuel tank molding for my Genesis FP45.

And I found a gentleman who has cast a boiler front for my 0-8-0. Its in the mail to me.

So I was at a train show this weekend and picked up a couple of tenders that might go with this 0-8-0,..

age(211).png 

 

age(212).png 

Reply 1
railandsail

B&O brass L2 model

Just ran across this brass model 0-8-0,    https://groups.io/g/HOswap/message/49389

One item really caught my attention. This brass one appears to have a motor installation similar in appearance to the Rivarossi model??

 

https://groups.io/g/HOswap/message/49389

 

Reply 1
railman28

It's a very complicated piece

Brian, It's a very complicated piece. It would take me about six hours to draw the file. It would spend at least 9 hours on the printer and use about $0.20 of material. If it was MY 0-8-0  $30.00 would be a bargain and the way I would go.

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

430

Reply 1
railandsail

Why can't I get this link to work?

Why can't I get this link to a forum site to work??

https://groups.io/g/HOswap/message/49389
 

Quote:

Used United/PFM B&O L-2 0-8-0
Can motor; DC; runs very smoothly with considerable engine noise on test track
Nice paint job but lettered for home road; might be possible to remove decals and re-letter without damaging paint
Jewels in marker lights; original box and foam

$200 plus shipping. Sale proceeds benefit the Denver HO Club and Colorado Railroad Museum.

Rich Gibson
Golden, CO

Reply 1
Bigboy57

The Rivarossi 0-8-0’s in my

The Rivarossi 0-8-0’s in my opinion are one of their best models they produced, and I have 2 of them. The second version they produced, with the cab mounted horizontal shaft motor, is the best of the 3 versions IMO. I have replaced the original 3 pole motor with a can motor and flywheel and it is really smooth. The 3rd version has a vertical motor mounted in the boiler. I have also replaced the motor in it but the gearing is much higher on this version and because of this, it is not quite as smooth. Many modelers like the 3rd version because you can see the cab detail. NWSL does offer a gearing kit for this model but I haven’t done that project yet.

Reply 1
railandsail

Satisfied Owners & Proto 2K versions

That two responders that both have 2 each of these Rivarossi locos,...and both persons seem totally satisfied. Mine is also of the second generation with horizontal motor in cab.

I got my boiler (and other parts) yesterday,...cast from resin. Not sure when I will get around to working on it as I have problems to solve on my layout track.
 

I also discovered that I have 2 Proto 2K models of these 0-8-0's. Does anyone have one of those, ...and how satisfied are you with them?? 

Mine are C&O and another custom rr line.

 

 

Reply 1
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