Prototype Trees

Lets start by taking a look at this scene in google street view more closely.

(the lighting in this photo happens to have some streaks of discoloration that should be ignored)

Consider the conifers in this photo. Notice that each tree has a "see through" appearance. The trunks are clearly visible very high into the tree and do not narrow significantly until the top 1/4 of the tree or so. The branches near the top bend upward. The branches are distributed randomly along the trunk and throughout the tree. The branches do not form "layers" except in some random spots.

Notice how all the trees are somewhat similar in height - this crop may have been planted at the same time. Also notice how most of the trees are similar color. The trunks are dark, almost black. The upper branches angle toward the sky more than the lower branches. In some cases the lower branches even bend down but not always. There are no split trunks or diseased trees mixed in. The trees tends to fill all the available space.

Non-conifer trees fill in around the edges of the conifer forest. The non-conifer fill along the forest edge is a separate project.

Color:
The color of trees is maddening. Tree color varies by: time of day, weather, season and viewing distance.

Deciduous trees appear lighter on top because the light from above does not penetrate the leaves. Conifer trees tend to stay closer to the same color throughout the whole tree (the needles do not block the light as much as leaves do).

The trees in a conifer forest may not look anything like the trees in your backyard.

Branches

I got some rope:

I've tried a several different types of rope now. Each is different to work with. I like this rope much better than the other ropes I have tried.

Available on Amazon here

I unbraid the rope and snip chunks off, about 3 inches long.

I take each 3 inch chunk and unbraid it further. I twist it like a bicycle pedal both directions trying to take the twist out of the material. I then use a pet comb to brush it out. Finally I roll it between my palms (like rubbing my palms together for warmth). Ultimately I tease the rope into roughly straight, independent fibers / branches.

This doesn't take too long. Normally I watch TV while working on branches - then I vacuum up afterward. I use a coffee can to store the material.

Some people soak the branches in water. I have not found that to be necessary.

Armatures

There are many ways people describe to "spin-up" bottle brush style conifer armatures. I attempted a range of techniques, with mixed results.

With other techniques I lacked the experience to consistently create acceptable results. I might get a couple successes but the failure rate was high. I finally was able to create armatures with consistent success by using "the machine".

I've seen a couple different tree machines / jigs now. One was built from a group buy of the hardware to create kits for a number of modelers. I suspect one could easily buy the parts and DIY the jig. Mine was sold by the McKenzie Brothers.

I have no affiliation other than a being satisfied customer. I basically follow the directions they provide because they work. I find the machine saves time and frustration and by using the machine I get consistent results.

The goal is to lock 2 parallel wires in place, put the branches between the wires and spin with a drill. The wire needs to be tight enough to hold the branches but loose enough to pull more wire in rather than break. The choke allows the wire to pull towards the drill just enough to avoid breaking. Other systems have different means to control the choke so the wire doesn't break (or it breaks, or the branches fall out, or ...).

I got a big box of wire spools from the McKenzie Brothers. A potentially confusing term with this technique is "wire". This is 18g fence wire on 1 pound spools. Many places sell this type of material (outdoor farm/garden stores). This is not electrical wire. Important note: you need a strong pair of wire cutters for this task.

I like to drop a ruler down as I as I put branches between the wires (load the machine), just helps me keep a consistent general tree height. I'm not trying to be exacting and I do want some variation. Note the scene I'm modeling the trees are a similar height - in a different scene this would be different.

Branches in the machine:

Kerf tool - used for spinning only one end of the wires in the machine:

I spin up a tree on one end, using the kerf tool to keep the other end of the wire from spinning. Once one tree is spun I add the branches for second tree and spin up another.

Tree armatures:

The plastic bin?
I use plastic bins to store the trees between steps.

The tree armatures should not be left sitting on their side. The branches flatten over time. So I use the bin to hold the armatures once the tree is spun up.

I like work in fairly large batches. This facilitates consistency and the assembly line process for the forest. Also at the install / planting step, selecting from a number of trees to create the forest works great.

I took a scrap piece of plywood, cut it to fit the bottom of the bin and drilled some holes in it to hold the trees. I have 4 bins, each can hold a dozen trees. I got the bins at walmart for under $10 each. The lid helps protect the tree until its planted.

I call the next step:

I call the next step: pre-trim. I trim the tree to a basic cone shape and adjust the branches to something that looks more tree like. I intentionally go quickly on the first trim because I plan on a second round. I find spending a couple minutes with pre-trim is useful before starting the next step. This is an optional step / phase, but it helps.

Trimming is a bit like sculpting, remove anything that does not look like a tree. When done, I put them back in the plastic bins waiting for the flocking steps.

Final shape, Trunk, Paint and Flock

This process takes about 12 to 20 minutes per tree. The pre-trim step above allows me to reduce this time slightly. I hold the tree the whole time. It is entirely possible to set the tree down during this process. The problem is the tree will get very sticky and each time I set it down or pick it up I risk damaging it. I prefer to just hold it for the entire process.

Supplies:

• Scissors
• Elmer's Spray Glue
• A box of sifted sawdust (use a tea strainer to remove any larger material)
• A disposable glove
• A N95 mast
• A spray box
• Rustoleum Camo brown spray paint
• Woodland Scenic's Coarse turf: Conifer
• Time (20 minutes)

Put the glove on and position the mask so you can get it on with just the hand that is not holding the tree (or just wear it the whole time).

Final shape:
This part takes 5 to 10 minutes - about half the duration of this step. The idea is to get the branches to the "final" position. Separating, bending and angling the branches so it looks like a tree. I use scissors to remove anything that does not bend the right way or otherwise does not look like a tree. The branches do tend to shift around a little during the following steps. The more time spent here the better the tree. Some armatures are just better than others, I spending more time on the better armatures. The less good ones will go in the back.

Trunk:
At this point the trunk still looks like a couple wires spun together. Time to fix that.

I mist the tree with Elmer's Spray Glue focusing on the trunk. I spray from the bottom, sides and top while rotating the tree.

Note on glue alternatives: I've tried 3M spray glue and it not as good, for me, in this application. I do not like using hair spray, it just doesn't work right for me. The Elmer's Spray Glue allows me to mist the tree during these steps and is the best I've found so far.

I hold tree horizontally over the container of sifted sawdust. Then, sprinkle sifted saw dust on the wires. By sprinkle what I mean is I hold some of the material between my pointer finger and thumb and rub them together to slowly distribute a thin layer of the material.

The sifted sawdust fills in the spaces around the wires creating a more solid trunk rather than a pair of twisted wires. Like this:

Tap off excess sawdust, it will fall off later if you don't. The sawdust can only stick where the spray glue was. Once a point is covered you cannot add more. So... the first coat is hopefully a good start, lets do it again.

Mist the trunk with the spray glue, again. A mist is needed here, directly hitting the trunk may blast the prior coat of sifted sawdust off. Sprinkle sifted sawdust on the wires, again. Looks better (maybe done). More like this now:

Still some spiral visible, better do it again. Normally, I sprinkle sifted sawdust on the wires at least two times, often three or four times and occasionally five. Depends on how the tree looks and if I think it will make a difference.

Starting to look better here:

Important safety tip: be aware of the direction the spray glue can is pointed - every time! After doing 3 to 5 coats of spray on a dozen trees it is easy to get complacent and assume you set the can down facing the direction you always do. It may actually be facing another direction. Its only a matter of time until the spray glue becomes alternative hair spray. Don't ask how I know this.*

Now I'm holding something that looks like a tree trunk and armature. Let's paint it...

Paint:
I spray the tree with rustoleum camo spray paint until it is completely covered. I turn the tree as I shot. Examine carefully and make sure its completely covered from all angles. The tree is shiny while wet at this step but dries flat.

I'm in a well ventilated garage wearing a N95 mask.

Flock:
I am currently holding the stickiest thing known to mankind (maybe not - but you get the idea). It has 3 to 5 coats of spray glue and a thick layer of spray paint. It is sticky enough to hold flock. I hold the tree over the container of flock vertically like this and sprinkle flock.

Then I turn it and sprinkle flock into the sides. Like this:

I make sure to get lots on the top.

I tap it against the side of the container while rotating it to shake the extra flock out. I tap and spin it until it stops losing flock.

Sprinkling the flock is the shortest but most satisfying step.
Magic - almost done:

Not my best effort, this one goes in the back. One last important step:

At this point the tree gets a light misting (2 or 3 squirts) of spray glue to help hold the flock on.

Here are a few ready to go:

* so far I have been lucky enough to not spray glue myself in the face. I've had one scare with the can pointed the wrong way - and once was enough. I hope.

Trunk Bases

Home Depot has 4 foot long 5/16" dowels. These make great trunk bases.

First, I take a jab saw (dry wall saw) and vigorously attacked these poor dowels. Dragging the saw the length of the dowel then cross cutting and smacking the dowels to create lots of texture.

They had it coming.

Once the dowels were textured I apply some paint...

First coat is dark - this is dark gray with some blue and black in it called "ink black" by behr.

Second color is moss - this is a custom mustard yellow with green in it - mixed with tap water into a wash before application.

These colors were selected by the backdrop painter at the club. The trunks are painted to match (and hopefully blend in with) the backdrop.

I paint the battered dowels with a thick coat of the dark paint and wait for it to dry. Then I mix the moss paint with some tap water and spread it over the dowels just like a wash - real thin and trying not to completely cover the dark. I'm looking for an uneven see through effect. The goal is to create some realistic color variation.

Once the second coat is dry I cut the dowels into roughly 2.5 to 3 inch lengths with a razor saw. I don't want them to be the same length but somewhat similar is good.

Now I need to drill holes in the both ends of each trunk base. I have a cheap drill press but one could also use a drill stand or dremel stand.

I drilled a 5/16" hole through a scrap of plywood. Then clamped another piece of plywood on to the drill press table. This serves as a jig to hold the trunk base in place while drilling out the ends.

I lower a 3/32" drill bit onto the base and create about 3/4" inch deep hole in both ends of each trunk base. I need to get deeper than the width of my fingers. I started with pliers to hold the truck but now I hold the bottom of trunk with my fingers in this step. The drill bit does not go as far down as my fingers. I go slow and carefully. Result:

Finally, each trunk base gets a second coat of dark paint and a second coat of moss paint + water / wash to cover the exposed ends. Results:

Planting

The final step is to plant the trees.

The scene before:

I decide on a tree and consider its placement. I try to put the worst looking models / specimens in the back.

Often holding it in several locations before deciding. I eyeball the length of excess double spun wire that needs to be removed. I hold the tree by the base, take my wire cutters and remove the excess wire. The hole in the trunk base needs to be deeper than the width of my fingers - so I can hold the tree by the bottom and still insert it in the base.

I grab the tree above the base with a pair of hook nose pliers and work the tree into a trunk base.

I reuse the spun wire that was removed (or some other wire) and insert it into the other end of the trunk base.

Then I poke a hole in the spot where the tree is going.

Hot Glue! I use a hot glue gun and stick a little blob of hot glue on the bottom of the trunk base. Then stick the wire through the scenic base in the ground. I try to get the assembly to stand up more or less straight.

The scene absorbs trees quickly:

Roughly 100 trees or so have been planted in the scene and it still needs many more.

Forestery

 get a great deal statisfaction out of making trees. The process is relaxing and enjoyable and the results look good.

I'm always willing to learn. I fully suspect in the future I'll look back at some of these steps and laugh at myself.

These trees are intended to be mid-ground forest fill. Foreground trees should ideally be more detailed. I figure build from the backdrop forward and learn as I go.

Given my initial failures, learning to make satisfactory trees was a prerequisite before starting my Kettle Falls branch model. For those who need a conifer forest I strongly recommend learning to make your own trees. I recommend starting early because it take time to develop your techniques and produce your forest.

This already is really long. But I'm happy to answer any questions or discuss anything related or any points where the steps and/or technique are not clear.

Also if you want to share your tree making experiences, feel free to leave comments below.

Thanks for reading!

Very nice trees

The sawdust is not a technique I had seen before - I had seen putting a strip of masking tape in parallel with the wires (which also had the advantage of holding onto the branches until spun) that built up bulk in the trunk. 

Sadly, this area was hit badly by the Labor Day 2020 blowup of the Beachy Creek fire and took a lot of damage. 

I'm trying to visualize where this is on the layout - right at the doorway inside the second room, right? 

Nice Job

I would also advise anyone interested in the various methods for making conifers to watch Joe's  old Siskiyou Line videos about conifers on Trainmaster TV. I like to use several different methods on the trees for my layout but the one Joe demonstrates has been my go to method for years. It's similar to this but there's enough difference people might also find it interesting.

Impressive

Forestery

Thanks guys!

I tried masking tape at one point. At that time my spin up technique resulted in a mess. Maybe I should try it again.

I have not had the heart / courage to go back up that way since the fires.

Exactly. The Granite Mountain scene received a similar treatment about a year ago as well.

Yes I agree. I've watched Joe's video on conifer trees multiple times. This technique is similar. I had inconsistent results "spinning up" trees and needed the jig to get consistent specimens.

Fantastic!

Fantastic scene! Thanks for the thorough documentation.

Making trees

That was an excellent how-to magazine article imbedded in the forums section.