I use those

I bought the 16' long LED strips.

Buy the bare ones, not the ones in the plastic coating. Also treat the 16' strip as you would track. Drop feeders from the strip to the power supply every 4'.

I did not do this with the first set I bought and they gradually started to turn Amber from the end the power supply was hooked up to. I was told by a electronics technician to spread the power input across the strip.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2542

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254252158129?var=553680353603&hash=item3b329c0cb1:g:rI4AAOSwMutc9MT~

and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151928719853?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item235fa849ed:g:dJIAAOSwY0lXSnKt&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkxGz2ccqatkEnoeekHqhLkac64P7crhC21XSlcmLKT2UKl5d8J2V%252F76CiOrq17i4n8dE6QsFjQL01EF5CbotnLmbtMCBu1q7v6N4xmGZaNbom30RBNcqFfAXBr2C48V6oCPHlRwT9VlJgKKJHrVYg8BROfgVfLZd%252F1YmkBgL8jqpejspzULl92XjgirdC9YWPwORdjgIkwRO%252BJtIjNcwABfijG2hUa3%252B2E6oht%252Fo%252FHfkgBF%252FVSuHYB32ymp85TRDpn%252BRTMOObBvZoNBOi7IgwfHugOX3GdXsJWeVRGmbk%252Bju3In34%252F0C%252B%252FWt7G%252BlUL97Cb1TP2M%252BQ%252FmreC%252BDLsr3agj5LiKwGMEqAEXCRcpb%252BG97BEJ6YWeVnD5lA%252FVBbWWipDiuntdoExdNrCjI%252BTKtWLVV%252F9HKKkos5jnieWcLQVM0Jxl3U%252BgLrgC%252B4QC6Ik52Leal9XIzxHrDv4Zc6xKurIJHzwicWG1zr%252FU3WCpOVpawUMTrDjJYOMAbX7jJvgelfBQx%252Bie7ummis%252FGPuQ87061mdlBc%252BawpwDpxeTFZfCn0dWUazkABxtgIABJLUhXoBIq3ummsuQMr10THwo4x7NXpThypo0KO9t9yViZvSWzm0J1yBvGmyVzoCo0ugd38sRny20tKaCEpnyHCiZ0BfFjx9PTgH48QBy%252FIW52WY%252BlAKlRhnw4nJJ6XEKcnwKtfMSmRAeG%252BVweqZrJLuVRSVrIAubbfWmFXg17hFsLrE5G7%252F6II0e8cV7uiGwBhZrWWZ7522jtG2hOxIlGbBeSlNgaOZ%252BtGgqG9faA%252FWgBIa0SQ%253D%7Ccksum%3A15192871985347186014385143f587ba908a396eab78%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

12 volt 30 amp 360 watt I use three for the whole cellar 700 square feet and have excess power.

and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182518293610

30 amp dimmers

I'm very pleased.

Light Strips as Track

Will,

Thanks for this, I figured it would need feeders which i'll do behind my backdrop as i've done with my IKEA lights. Is the item I ordered the bare ones? Or should I re-select? 

Also, Do you think I can use my existing IKEA lighting junction box to feed from? 

Are you local to me? I'm from Mississauga, ON. Noticed the Credit Valley profile. 

cheers,

Brad

@amsnick

Thank you!! I think you saved me some coin!

cheers Brad

@Brad

You're welcome,

I mounted them on J-bead.  I also used 14 gauge wire to the end of each one and it seemed to work.  I like the light.  More of my details are in this post along with others.

Start with this thread

There's been plenty of in depth discussion on LED strips on this site and in the magazine. Start here for all kinds of great info...

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/29429

non-waterproof

On the link Nick sent, he didn't state which options he chose but, make sure you select the non-waterpoof as mentioned by Will the waterproof ones come in a plastic coating that will yellow over time.

The color, if you go with white or warm white versus the RGB ones will depend on several factors, but in general consider the warm white to be more yellow probably early spring or late fall early morning/late afternoon. The white is more bright noon day sun in the summer here in North America.

You might want to read this thread:  https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/led-strip-lighting-for-the-average-joe-12206303, at least the beginning page or two.

EDIT: removed the reference to the LED thread already provided by Michael T. and Nick

@Brad

I used to live in Clarkson. Hiked up and down the Credit Valley as a young man.

Then moved to Huntsville (my hometown).

In Dec. 2019, I moved to Thunder Bay (my lady's daughter lives here with the 3 grand kids).

Last year I started a 250 sq ft. two level N scale layout proto-freelance of the CVR, from Orangeville south to Cheltenham, circa 1900 (1890-1910).

@Will Clarkson...and thanks everyone!

Will,

I'm from Clarkson! My folks still live on Truscott Drive..55 or so Years now!

Thanks everyone for your info! This is a great site for gaining new knowledge!

cheers,
Brad

My module lights

Here's a picture of what I did on my module. I used one 6K and one 3K 16 foot strip with dimmers. I tend to like the higher color temps but I can get about any thing I want by adjusting strip intensity using the dimmers. Total cost for both strips was just over 30 bucks. Of course a bigger installation with multiple lengths of strips will require a bigger power supply and expense will go up. I used common hardware store wooden yardsticks painted white as the mounting surface for my lights. Right now they are only held in place by the adhesive, they also have some clamps that I need to install. I eventually plan to add one more RGB strip for special effects. I've also got to install a "lid" and valance as well as fascia but I'm not there yet.

@Brad

From 1961 to 1974 we lived at 1817 Sandgate Cr. I went through High school (grade 10-13) during the 1st 4 years of CSS.

Small world.

High CRI from Ebay

I documented mine in LED lighting

https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-CRI-RA-95-SMD5630-LED-Strip-Light-Warm-White-Neutral-White-Daylight-White/182965299789?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=690279710665&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I'm still very happy with them. Not cheap, but colors are very good. I even used the left over in my airbrush booth (it was made for it: perfect length).

Pierre-Yann

LED ribbon lights

I've used LED ribbon lights on the layout for over 10 years, all sourced directly from China.  All came on a 5 meter roll and they were dirt cheap (less than $5 per roll).  I ordered lights that were dimmable and ordered a dimmer as well.  You don't need the ribbon lights meant for an out-door location.  During installing them I learned two important lessons . . . . don't over-load the circuit with too many ribbons, the lights are very sensitive to voltage requirements and too much load will cause them to "blink" or just fail to come on. 

Five meter rolls from China are somewhat suspect, such as the glue strip for mounting is not a "3M" manufactured product, it's a Chinese knock off and won't hold the the lighting strip up.  Additional adhesive is needed.

Color options are plentiful, I prefer the standard "warm white" and try to order from the same supplier for product consistency.  You can get the exact same product from online catalogs or local sources, but why pay 5 times as much?

Why?

Dear MRHers,

 ...because "binning" (consistent picking and assembly of the LED elements along a strip for color/brightness/current-draw/junction-behaviour) is a thing, and reliability cannot be guaranteed....

...I'm currently in the process of playing-whack-a-mole selectively cutting-out 3xLED segments from a pair of such "cheap eBay source" 5m strips, as some combination of the below randomly take them down:

- a single LED flickers within a 3xLED segment
- the full 3-set LED array flickers
- One or more of the 3x LEDs of a segment die and will not re-illuminate

I made the mistake of "saving a buck" on this build and moving away from my previously-bulletproof LED suppliers

https://www.satisled.com/
https://www.satisled.com/shop/product/dc-12v-2835-smd-flexible-led-strip-60leds-m-free-bending-s-shape-for-channel-letter-8267?category=2445

https://www.ledsales.com.au/
https://www.ledsales.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=213_350&products_id=1957

and with a large single-sheet diffuser making it near-on-impossible to replace/resolve for such failures once the layout is completed and on-tour, I will not be making the same mistake again...

Depot module, diffuser not yet installed due to playing whack-a-mole with failing LED segments...
(look carefully and some can be seen in this pic...)

Watertank module, all bad-actor segments "whacked", diffuser sheet installed...
(no coming back now)

Something about "Penny wise, and Pound foolish" comes to mind...

Happy Modelling,
Aiming to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

I have generally been

I have generally been satisified with Cheap units from China. You may need to be concerned about CRI and that's up to you, but it's worth the price of experimenting with some different units I think.

I've not had significant failures on any strings I've purchased.

In the OP, you mention only needed White and not interested in color. If that is the case, then I wouldn't buy the RGB sets. For one thing those 5050 LEDs are less bright than the 2835s you can get for the various whites. 

As others have said, do NOT buy the IP68 water proof units. the plastic coating can yellow.

As for yellowing in general. Remember, these strips generate heat. You'd be best off mounting them to aluminum or other metal to dissipate heat. Amazon has aluminum channel designed specifically for them. Or you can roll your own with aluminum stock. 

I personally don't see how white or black backing matters. It's going to be behind a valence and hopefully on the Aluminum which also isn't white. 

My last comment is I like the double density 600 LEDs per 5M strips which Joe has recommended. They also come in a half width ribbon which saves a lot of mounting space.

LED ribbon lights

Sorry to hear about your issues.  In over 10 years of use, I've never experienced a problem or an issue as you described.  As an additional plus, I have installed interior LED lights in all of my passenger cars and cabooses using the 3 LED groupings with no issues.

George

I got lost in LED specs for awhile

And I considered more expensive options. After awhile though I just put all the math about lumens aside and stopped trying to get exactly 5K color temp to match the rest of the layout. My brain was starting to hurt looking at numbers and comparing all the options so I  threw caution to the wind and gambled on a couple of cheap Chinese strips of the same brand in 3K and 6K with dimmers and power supplies included. They are working well for me so far but even if they start to fail, it's been a learning experience and I'll now know better what to do on my next lighting project. I really like the ability to custom mix the 3K and 6K strips and if I ever get to move the rest of the layout along with my module, I'll probably relight the whole thing in that manner albeit with better quality strips and bigger power supplies.

@Will: Sandgate!!

Will, I lived at 1700 Sandgate for 3 Years up until June 1 last Year! Small World indeed!!

Did you have a layout there at the time? 

Brad

@Nick @Jim at BSME

I messed up and ordered the Waterproof lights as they were the default item. Doah! Estimated arrival from China is June 2 - 18. I sent them a message to see if I can swap them out for non-waterproof (and cheaper too!). If no, can the plastic coating not be cleaned or even stripped off? 

Another question is that my layout is 18" deep and approximatly 2' from the celing where they will be mounted. Will one strip suffice? I see Nick you have one strip from your ceiling over your layout and it looks good. If I need another I will order the non-waterproof... 

Again, thanks everyone for all your help and expertise!

Brad

@Prof_Klyzlr

Is your module based on Thurmond, WV? 

Looks great. Thanks for your advice..although i'll take it in theory for now.  

Brad

@hohon3

Re: Chinese products don't use 3M tape...Oh what now? So I have to buy a roll of 3M tape now? Ain't nothin' easy. Of course it's Model Railroading.  

Does anyone agree assuming a lot of you have bought the rolls from China? 

Also.. you note: "don't over-load the circuit with too many ribbons, the lights are very sensitive to voltage requirements and too much load will cause them to "blink" or just fail to come on."

I currently have 4 IKEA round lights every two feet plugged into this junction they supply plugged into a single socket I posted before:

Wouldn't this suffice?

Thank you for this honhon!

Brad

@Brad

Yes, I lived there from 1962 until 1974. 

My parents were there until 1978.

My father put one of those pull down ladders in the back hall so that he could build a 24' x 40' room in the attic.

That's me in the Cowboy hat. I now have an engineer's hat.

@hohon3: CRI?...Aluminum mounting??

Sorry my knowledge in railroading barely extends wiring my layout with 10 blocks common rail when I was 15! I do have 3 power bars at my feet with an Audio studio in the same room. But everything there is basically plug and play. What is CRI? 

And now...I need aluminum underneath the lights? I live in a rented room. I've aleady put enough holes in the walls. I've never seen anyone put any kind metal sheeting under their lights under cabinents or in their living room general. Is the light heating something else I should be worried about? I'm also in a basment!!!

Sorry again, I thought these lights were pretty simple that any uni student could string up without any electrical knowlege. 

Also, my layout is 10 feet long and 4 feet wide on both sides. Maybe your observations are for a bigger layout or maybe more extensive in general? You said "sorry about your issues".. I don't have them yet (lights and issues and I wasn't planning on any! But I want to thank you for drawing my attention to 'what could happen' before I bang my head against the wall!

regards,
Brad

@Brad

I ordered some and they were the waterproof ones too.  I was dismayed with myself but took a sharp blade in an Exacto knife, stabilized the 15’ strip and carefully cut the tubing off longitudinally.  It wasn’t a hard job and I still have all my fingers...  Hahahahaha!  Not a big deal.  I think they still had the adhesive backing protector on them.

Remember also that I mounted my LED strips on plastic J-bead for drywall applications.  The LEDs don’t cause any significant heat, just significant light!

One thing I learned was that the adhesive on the strip works fairly well.  In places where it failed I used Loktite GOTO to reattach a few ends where the wire pulled the strip away.  That stabilized it.  They have been up for a while now with no complaints.