Alternatives

OSB

Drywall

Masonite spline

Homasote Spline

Clear pine spline

Pink or blue insulation foam

OSB

I've been using OSB for my past and present layout.  I'm using 19/32 for 1 or 2 track wide subroadbed or 13/32 for sheet areas.

One not in the list

And after dealing with it just now on my first attempt, I'll probably donate it to whoever wants it.  8' sheet, cut into a 20" and 28" strip.  The filth working with this stuff has to be experienced, just to know why it should be relegated to history books of the hobby.

Homasote

You can't cut it, trim it, sand it, rub it, hells, I suspect a dirty look will generate dust clouds from it.

Zero out of five, not recommended.

Tim B.

I had Home Depot cut my

I had Home Depot cut my Homasote and screwed it to 7/16 OSB.  You can cut it with a utility knife but it isn't fast.  Reportedly there is a special blade you can get for saber saws that cuts without raising a dust cloud.  I've used Homasote on all of my layouts.

HD and that saw

The Salisbury HD declined to work with it, in as much as I didn't ask them to.    I figured that it would travel better as sold, since the trip home was about 45 miles, at highway speeds, with about 3' hanging out and above the tailgate.  To it's credit, not a crack or warp to be seen.

The DeWalt trim saw hates it!  Grey clouds of dust and fluff galore, the blade binds if you apply any normal amount of pressure, and wear a mask if you want to breathe normally afterwards.  Got the segment upstairs, aligned it to the area, had to trim a slice off the end, and cursed it with every knife stroke.  Tried using a Surform tool to finish the job, that was regrettable, as it made even more dust than shavings.

It is said, "To each his own", and if Homasote works for you, so be it.  At this point, I'm definitely *not* enamored of the stuff, and I'm debating removing the one section I've set in place.

And to think I was contemplating using a trim router to freehand drainage ditches in it  < shudder>

Tim B.

Cutting Homasote

As mentioned above, Homasote cuts easily with a knife blade.  I use knife blades made for saber saws, and it's cuts very cleanly with essentially no dust.  The secret though is to let the knife do the cutting . . . cut at a low speed and don't force it.  And let the blade cool OFTEN.  You'll know you're overheating it when it scorches and discolors.  The blade won't last long if you overheat it.

Finding the blades is the hard part.  I found a vendor on the internet years ago that sold them in bulk for a very reasonable price.  I still have several left from that batch.

Having said this, I've noticed the Homasote sheets sold nowadays are not perfectly flat, that is, they have a waviness to the surface.  They are also not consistent in thickness, sometimes varying by a 16th".  That makes for problems when butting panels together, such as for a yard.

The old Homabed (and I assume it's successors) are very consistent in thickness and flatness, and I highly recommend that for roadbed.

homasote

You don't give homasote a dirty look, homasote gives you a dirty look.

Well said, EW!

Well said! 

Tim B.

I totally agree with you

Sean about the huge mess you'll create cutting multiple strips of Homasote.  I like this product the best for holding hand laid spikes.  I only make cuts to form the overall shape using a saber saw outdoors.  You could always hold a vacuum close by if you had to cut it inside the house.

Going there...

Dear MRHers,

I'll go there (again), because the last time I got called out on it I didn't bite,...

5mm (3/16") Foamcore

In my case, I took the below-linked, which was based on 9mm CD construction plywood and 3mm MDF,
cost AUD$100,
and weighed in at 30 kilos naked
(before anything was added, track, electrics, scenery, fascias, lighting rigs, nothing...)

http://krmodels.com.au/module.html
http://krmodels.com.au/100dollarmod/100dolarmod.html

then adapted/resized the fundamental structural design down to a 4' x 2' x 2' version for HO,
directly-substituting Foamcore and Matteboard respectively...

which weighs in at 15 kilos All-In Complete, Ready for Exhibition,
and cost < AUD$50 in 2x Sheets of 5mm Foamcore + 1x Sheet of Matteboard (backdrop sheet).

60" x 40" x 3/16" (1500mm x 1000mm x 5mm) sheet genuine 3A Composites Foam-cor is available in 25-sheet cartons for approx AUD$12-14 per sheet,
(Yes, I make such extensive use of the stuff, and build soo many layouts, that it's worth buying "in qty" )

https://www.foamboards.com.au/Buy-Now/Foam-board-Sheets/5mm-White-Foam-board-Full-Box

https://3acompositesusa.com/products/fome-cor/

and a single sheet can give enough material to create a 4' x 1' "domino" module 4inches deep
(or a 5' long variant, at between 2 or 4 inches deep,
depending on how creative you want to get with wear-plates...

anyone wanna build a 25-module Freemo layout? 
Just grab 1x cartoon of Foamcore,
a few packets of fresh X-acto #11 blades,
and a small bag full of low-temp hotglue, and you're ready-to-rock...

No Noise, Mess, or Heavy Power-Tools required, 
imminently suitable for Domestic and "Apartment Dweller" construction limitations,
(the above and other example layouts were built in the wee-small-hours,
while my Significant-Other was asleep in the next room, and newborn babies were in adjacent apartments),

a helluva lot easier to build accurately for the average-modeller than having to use Wood or Steel-based woodworking tools
(Esp if you're like me, and find cutting curvy lines with a circular or jigsaw "automatically" easier than cutting straight ones!...
...Pass the straight-edge ruler and X-acto knife...)

and as of this writing has no-signs-of-warpage longevity,
(Inc full-immersion wet-on-wet scenery techniques, Search box at Top Right has the previous thread examples)

inc surviving multiple-1000s-of-kilometres touring and exhibition work, measured in decades...

For your consideration...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

alternatives to plywood?

When plywood prices go up the alternatives usually go up too so it's hard to find anything cheap. My suggestion is to cut down the cost by designing a cheaper to build layout. Benchwork can be narrowed, track plan simplified, less space filled, etc. Most layouts end up too big , too complicated, too expensive, etc for our needs so might as well consider that when starting on the layout instead of when in too far to avoid it. My present S scale  CCT layout has 42 turnouts and maybe 30 structures to build , I've just finished laying and wiring the tracks. If I'd built a Harlem Transfer layout I'd only needed about 12 turnouts and 5 buildings plus a carfloat and float bridge so I could spend more time per building and per square foot of scenery and end up with higher quality work and be operating sooner....DaveB 

Homasote complaints are easily remedied

Well, you know.  All you have to do is ask.  Since 4x8 sheets won't fit in any of my vehicles, I pre-determine some cuts that I will need and have HD make one or two cuts.  For example, most of my yard sections are 2 feet wide, so I have HD cut the sheet into two 2x8 feet pieces.  That will fit in my car for transport.  When I get it home, I use some tan latex mistake paint from HD or Lowest to give it a coat to sort of seal and make it nicer to work with.  It also gives it a base color.  Then I can draw center lines on it for laying track.  It's easy - no adhesives and I can lay track fairly quickly.

and it's also easy to take the track up if I need to change something.  Just pull out the track nails with needle nose plyers.  

x

I also like the way Homasote works for holding spikes and track nails. 

People always throw the dust/mess thing out as a reason not to use it.  But there are ways to enjoy the advantages of Homasote without the mess.  Have HD make major cuts.  Take it outside and cut if you need to use a power saw and let the breeze blow away the dust.  If inside you can get special blades or use a utility knife and there is basically no dust.  /solved.

Homasote

I handlay my track and 100% of it is laid on Homasote in a 24 x 24 room.  I cut it with a utility knife and change blades frequently.  No dust.  The only really dusty part is cutting the slots for the switch operating mechanisms.  Holding a shop vac nozzle near the cutting cuts that way down.

A friend uses Homasote spline and runs it through a table saw to get strips.  Using a thin blade minimizes the dust, but it still does create a bunch of dust.  He will do a couple sheets of Homasote at a time and that will generate enough roadbed to keep him busy for a year or two.  So yes, its dusty, but once every two or three years isn't too bad.

Cutting it with a saw blade in a saber saw is about the dustiest way to cut it.

Micore

.

.

Not already mentioned Micore is a safety sheet against fire in home construction and an insulation board.

It's an excellent replacement of homasote.

It's not disturbed by humidity and he his lighweight and sound absorber

It holds well spikes and didn't produce dust when cutting; sheet are not very expensive.

It can be glued, screwed or nailed and holds paint well

Seems to be available everywhere.

.

Homasote

Been a user of the stuff since the 70s. All of my layouts since have used it. Holds spikes/track nails great. Good at noise reduction, readily takes paint and/or texturing. On and on.

Dusty to work with? Well, what conventional construction material/methods aren't? Wood creates sawdust and that, too, gets everywhere and into every pore of appliances/etc.

Construction requiring power tools/saws is messy.

If one is not able to accept that, then there are the exotics mentioned above. However, I suspect they all have their own drawbacks as well.

Bottom line: Use what you want and be happy!

Andre

I was lucky this time.

This is my 5th layout since I got back into model railroading in 2004.

The first one, since I had a friend who was a contractor, was made with scrap wood from local construction sites. I did not care what the wood looked like as I was going to cover it. It was typical frame bench and 1" blue foam top. In 2008 the layout was moved to another room in my apartment. 

My second layout used the parts from my first and added to it. This time the frames  were wood and the tops were 2" pink foam board. This was taken down in 2011.

The third layout was started in 2015. It was modular. Modules were either 2' x 4', 2' x 6' or 2 'x 8' depending on what "scene was going on top and where it was to be positioned. It had 2" x 3" legs and the frames were 2" x 3", with cross members every 24". The surface was all 2" pink foam. Where I lived at the time, the 2" foam was the best bang for your buck. Cheaper than 2 sheets of 1" foam and cheaper than 1/2" plywood. This was all taken down in 2019 as I moved again.

It was reassembled in a new location, but within 7 months it was taken down and the wood given to a buddy as I was moving 12200 km away and paying by the KG.

My current layout Is mounted to the wall. the walls were constructed as per an article from Jason Schrom. The bottom 32" is drywall, the next 48" is a sheet of 1/2" plywood and from there to the roof is once again drywall.

The frame this time was 3/4" plywood that a friend ripped down to 3" x 48" or 4" x 48" strips. The legs were 2" x 3" studs. 1/2" ply was used for the roadbed, using the tried and true cookie cutter format.

The remainder of the layout was filled in with the 1" or 2" foam I had moved with me. The foam is light so, unlike the wood, it was cheaper to move it than to buy new.

Alternatives!

May I interject my favorite way of laying track. Caulk. I had painted 2" pink foam for base. Using a cheap paint to provide a base color of the soil that would be prominent for the layout. I then prepared the roadbed and track cut to fit the plan. Then, using DAP Alex clear caulk, I caulked a strip just wide enough for the roadbed. Got it all aligned properly. Then caulked a strip on the roadbed just wide enough for the track. Placed the track accordingly. Made sure all was the way I wanted. Weighed it down. Let it cure overnight. DONE. The main reason I chose caulk was for realignment should it become necessary. That happened only once. Using a putty knife, it was easy to pry up the roadbed and track. Realigned and re-caulked. DONE. Wiring can be done the usual way. OR: If you plan ahead, determine where the feeders drop, solder the feeders to the bottom of the rail. Pre-drill holes in track and roadbed and get all aligned just as described above. And then do the caulking. Same procedure. This whole procedure was so easy, I wondered why bother with spikes, nails, etc. From what I've heard, this works on Homasote and plywood and spline. This is just my input and suggestion. (Another advantage - nails can be unsightly. Caulk is invisible, the clear goes on white, but cures clear.)

Being tactile defensive, I

Being tactile defensive, I cannot stand the feel, smell, and yes, the dust that can kick up.  With that said, my original layout was built with 1/2" homasote over 3/4" plywood sub-roadbed.  Track was Micro-Engineering flex track (the non-weathered stuff) with Walthers code 83 switches.  The track and switches were spiked in place (drilled every 6th tie on the ME track).  That layout has withstood the test of time over the last 34 years.  

I now use very little wood in my layout construction, utilizing steel stud framework, with 2" foam as sub-roadbed.  We glue 1/4" cork to the foam with Loctite PowerGrab (ONLY use the Express All Purpose, the other stuff sets too quickly), and use 1/8" cork for passing sidings.  Most of my yard and industrial trackage is glued right to the foam. The track is also glued to the cork using Loctite Power Grab All Purpose. 

So far, this method has also withstood the test of time.  The layout has been running since 2015 and no shrinkage issues.  I'd also like to point out that the new layout utilizes Peco code 83 track with Walthers Code 83 switches (mostly the old Shinohara made switches, but just installed some of the new China-made switches, nice stuff).  I have zero derailment problems.   

The only downside is the steel / foam IS noisier than the plywood, but not objectional to either my operators, or I.   YMMV.

If you are hand laying track, I would also concur that homasote is the way to go, as it does the best job of holding spikes. 

At the end of the day, the best method is what the user is most comfortable using.

Regards,

GNNPNUT

Suspect VS Experience

Dear Andre,

(Prof takes a breath, and says to himself,
"...you've already bitten on the hook once in this thread, do you Really Wanna do it again??")

Andre, I hear you, but over a couple of decades experience here in Aust,
(N thru HOn30/HO/On30 to O2R,
inc 4+ pound O2R Sunset Brass Challengers and 2+pound CLW GP38s,
and On42 "DeadRail" logging with actual stripwood wooden rails!)

as well as guys like
- Mike Dannemann ("N scale thru the Rockies" Model Railroader circa 1996, N scale USA),
- Keith Harcourt (Uckfield MRC UK, "Mr KappaBoard", RM Jan 2000, OO and O 7mm SG),
- Jim Kelly ("HO Railroad from Start to Finish" circa 1992, Kalmbach USA HO)
- Carl Arendt (MicroLayouts ahoy, in everything from N thru Gn15)
- Ian Holmes (Small and Micro Layouts, Minnesota USA, in HO thru Gn15)
- Tom Conboy ("Wetterall Food Services" and "Herrin Foods" clipboard layouts in HO, USA)
- and various members on the UK-based RMWeb and here on MRH

covering a wide range of layout/RR-theme/scale/gauge applications (Whymsy thru hardcore Prototype),
storage and operational locations, (indoors, garages, flooded basements, etc)
temperature + humidity variables, (UK and Minnesota winters, Aussie summers, 10-90% humidity)
associated modelling techniques (Caulk and spiked trackwork, wet-on-wet scenery, etc etc)

suggests your "suspicions" may well be respectfully unfounded...

I mean, if someone insists on building (out of habit? routine? convention?)
a layout that they can casually walk on,
where such construction is demonstratably orders-of-magnitude overkill for the actual dynamic loads and stresses of a scale model train and associated construction techniques/materials,
then that may well have drawbacks too....

Happy Modelling,
Aiming to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Awhile back there was an MR

Awhile back there was an MR article where a layout builder used a thin piece of masonite with foam glued to one side to build up it's thickness/width for track. He called it something along the lines of "easy spline". IIRC the foam had kerfs cut into it to allow it to bend into curves. Typical spline layout construction otherwise.

Helix

So how do you build a helix out of 2" foam?

Micore

I have looked for it around here and nobody carries it (unless you want to order a whole bundle).

Helix.

I built my N scale helix as a quarry.

One piece of 48" x 48" x 1/4" plywood. Spiral cut.

It is 23" radius at the top and 12.5" radius at the bottom.

Here is a link to a tutorial:  http://www.rslaserkits.com/CVR/Tutorials.html

I used 1/4" plywood, I could just as easily used 2" foam. In fact, if I had used the 2" foam, the walls of the quarry would have been easier to scenic.

@Eastwind

Covered in here at length and doesn’t need to be 2”.  Foam helix technique in this blog (page 2)

Further, I’ve found when you cut it with a hot soldering iron blade, the melted edge adds a fair bit of strength.