measure the resistance

i noticed some cars on my layout almost rolling uphill.    so i went thru my trucks measuring how well the rolled on a piece of wood with track that i could adjust the slope.   many rolled easily when the slope was < 2%.   others took some work to roll down a 2% grade.

we measured the pull force on a group of cars ((20+) on someone's layout and found it was ~2% of the weight of the cars (~4oz/car).

so are you sure the walthers truck resistance is high?

since it's presumably metal on metal, i assume you tried lubricant.   other possibilities are to replace the wheels with short ones.   the only other suggestion is can the trucks be spread without breaking

Get yourself one of these motor tool grinding bits

Try these tungsten motor tool grinding bits for wood and soft metal:
https://amzn.to/3hepF7u

$12.49 Prime from Amazon ...

Ball bearing wheel sets

Inter mountain #40058 or 40059 ball bearing wheel sets.

Ball bearing wheelsets are a good idea too

I think Dave actually has hit on the solution I would try first (I augmented his post with a bit more detail).

The Intermountain ball bearing wheelsets are great for tight truck frames. The wheels rotate independent of the axles, pretty clever, aye?

I'm presuming the truck

I'm presuming the truck resistance is higher on some cars than others because I tested them on an adjustable incline like you describe. Of various body styles of Walthers heavyweight cars the incline angles where they would roll 17 or more inches from a standing start were, in best-to-worst order:

80' Pullman 1.1%

80' Pullman 1.4%

70' Chair 1.4%

80' Pullman 2.4%

80' Pullman Observation 4.7%

All had a drop of LaBelle lubricating oil on the axle end.

Wow, the Intermountain ball-bearing wheelsets look like a great idea -- I'd never heard of them before. The price is reasonable considering what probably goes into making them.

Intermountain ball-bearing wheelsets work!

Without any other changes I replaced the six wheelsets on my worst-rolling car and it rolled on less than half the grade than it did before.

8.24 Oz. 80' Walthers heavyweight Pullman Observation rolled 17+" at a minimum grade:

Original wheelsets: 4.7% grade

Intermountain 40059 ball-bearing wheelsets: 2.2% grade

Thanks Dave Husman (and Joe for agreeing)! I have two more 40059 on order to put on the trucks of two to-be-built brass cars.

side frames

I've reamed them out with a drill bit re-sharpened to approximately the right point angle. It doesn't seem to matter if there is a slight mis-match. I've also seen delrin inserts that one can press into the side frames after drilling them out a bit. Ball bearing wheels are easier however  if you don't mind spending the extra money....DaveB

Graphite

There’s also Kadee’s dry graphite lubricant, which has been available for years. Use a tiny puff into the bearing. Or a couple of swipes of a graphite stick on the end of the axle.

Graphite works fine, too.

I took my second-worst rolling passenger car, disassembled the trucks and swabbed out the axle pockets on the sideframes and the axle tips with 91% alcohol. They had very little evidence of the Labelle lubricating oil that had been sparingly applied in past years. My 30+ year-old Kadee graphite powder had turned into soft globules but still seemed useful. With a toothpick I packed some into each axle pocket and reassembled the trucks. Here are the results:

7.71 Oz. 80' Walthers heavyweight Pullman rolled 17+" at a minimum grade:

Original wheelsets lightly lubed with oil over 3 years: 2.9% grade.

Original wheelsets cleaned and "packed" with graphite: 1.6% grade. Excellent!

Of course, the usual things like making sure that all six wheels were in gauge, all contacting the rail, etc.  were done. This and my other cars don't get much use. Perhaps six hours a year of running at public shows (and zero since Feb. 2019). I expect them to next be running in August 2021.

So, I'm not going to deal with reaming out the axle pockets on the sideframes on these trucks. I do use my Truck Tuner on all plastic trucks -- it's definitely beneficial and easy to do.

Check for squareness

You might also try checking the trucks to make sure the sideframes are square to the bolster. That, and a proper lubricant, will do wonders for lowering rolling resistance. 

Okay I'm confused

Okay I'm confused.

On Dave's recommendation I ordered two packs of the Inter mountain 40059 ball bearing wheel sets. I was surprised to find the wheels do not roll independently of the axles like I thought they would! 

Did I miss understand or what?

the wheels do not roll independently of the axles

Sounds like they may have sent you the wrong ones? Did they appear to have bearings in them? Could they be frozen up for some reason? ....DaveB

Intermountain roller bearing wheels really roll!

My set of brass Van Hobbies CPR passenger cars with their brass trucks and original wheels would not even roll on a 2.2% grade.  Installed Intermountain roller bearing wheels and they run away and keep on going and going. Come to a slow top over a Kadee magnetic, the car uncouples and rolls on.  I can't say enough good about them.

Graphite

Try some Neo Lube. Graphite in a alcohol solution. Works great and does not collect dirt. --  Ken 

@DaveB

Yes Dave they do look just like the ones shown under the parts listing and even the package is the correct style. I'll look at them again this weekend. 

If this discussion is in

If this discussion is in regard to Walthers six, wheel passenger trucks they do have rolling resistance especially the middle axle. I used Kadee graphite and they now seem to roll better. That middle axle rubs against the truck bottom and doesn't roll freely until I used the graphite and now it rolls as free as the other two axles. 

But as a caution unless you want a real challenge don't take the truck apart to change wheel sets. The tiny screws which fasten the side frames to the truck are a pain to remove and replace. Other modelers have commented that they often are not square. I only have one six wheel truck observation car to deal with as all the others are four wheel trucks so if it gives me trouble I just set it out B/O and don't worry about it.

Barry 

Tim, at first it seems that way but try this...

The two wheels and the axle you see between them act as one unit. Carefully hold the pointy ends of the axle that go into the truck then you should be able to spin the wheels. The manufacturer doesn't mention this and I've never seen it in my online searches. When I first opened my package I was confused, too.

As another commented below, check the middle axle to be sure that it isn't rubbing on something such as the adjacent screw head that attaches the truck to the car. I had to grind down one screw on one of several cars that I checked. I made sure that the ground-down screw still retained the slot for using a screwdriver. When I reinstalled it I made sure that the ground-down part was closest to the axle so there wouldn't be any contact.

@chepp

You're right! The pointed axle ends are what spin inside the bearings not the main axle themselves! Main axle spins with the wheels and bearing housings.

Thanks for the tip!

Rolling resistance of Walthers trucks

Any trucks that I purchase regardless of brand I remove the wheels by either disassembly or twist, remove the wheels and look at the end of the axles. There is always a small "tit' on the end of the axle where it was cut off from the parent material. You would be surprised how much drag this will cause. The other end is in most cases OK because the point is turned. I use a honing stick and while turning the axle with your fingers lay the honing stick on the taper and remove the small "tit" until you have a sharp point on the end of the axle. I always do both ends to make sure. I will work on the trucks until they will roll freely without lubricant down a 0.5% (1/2%) slope by themselves, no additional weight. Sometimes you also have to inspect the hole in the side frame to make sure there is no flash from manufacturing. I have made a small reaming tool from carbide, carefully ground down to a point with a small flute and very minimal relief. This works well on all side frames, plastic, metal but do apply minimal pressure other wise you can deepen the hole in the side frame and then have to put in bushes or make longer axles to avoid excess side ways movement. The only disadvantage to doing all this work is pulling a train of 20 plus cars up a grade of 1% or more and because of the reduced rolling resistance there is a greater pull on the drawbar, so instead of one loco you may need two. Small price to pay. I also do not use any lubricant. Also even using KD wheels always check to see that the points of the axles have not been damaged

Rod Mason 

 Australia