F&C kit modified to match the

F&C kit modified to match the prototype of the boom/wheel car of my wreck train. 

Following

Following

Interior Details

Working on details for the interior of my HO scale Market and Tavern. Now that they are primed it will be time to paint and detail. 
 

Experimental Rerailer

I’m not a fan of commercial rerailers and, although I haven’t looked, imagine that on for On30 isn’t available and I’d have to use the HO version. It occurred to me that making a rerailer to function better that those available might be possible so I started mocking one up. When a truck derails the wheels must be routed back to the rails on the inside and the outside set will have to be gathered up and over the rail. Using a guard on the inside could pull the backside of the tire and allow it to drag along the other side. 
   

My outside guide (balsa) slopes up and slightly higher than the rail. The idea was to help the flange over the top. Actually, at this point it is a little too late. A truck can get way off center so some other way to capture the weeks is necessary. Since the center guard rail can only come to the center if you want it to work with trucks that wander inside or out, and in both directions, the outside guide has to extend at least the gauge of the track on the outside. 
 

This has potential. Any other thoughts or ideas are appreciated!!

On30 rerailer

Dear Neil,

Prompted to ask, is this retailer a 12"/1' scale functional assist for staging/fiddling cars, or is it some form of "on-stage scale rerailing" system?

If it's the former, I would have thought that the visual intrusion of a RTR HO-gauge retailer (or similar built from a diamond of styrene glued between the rails) would have been excusable in a "backstage/off-scene" context.

If the later, I would suggest that visually it might look "splinter-in-the-mind" odd compared to "familiar prototype" equivalents. Also, if (model) equipment is derailing soo frequently that such a rerailer is Required in practise, then I'd respectfully suggest there might be bigger, more fundamental wheel/rail/track/geometry issues which are calling to be resolved First...

Intrigued...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

@Prof

Good question. This idea came from some thoughts on double deck layouts where I have a section of hidden track on a 3% grade. My concern is that a train will be difficult to access and a way to ensure that cars are all on track, literally, would be reassuring. I don’t expect to have derailments but ... 
 

Now I agree that an HO re-railer would be good in staging or other hidden track, this area will have a couple security cameras and rudimentary scenery so I can extend the visible layout a little further. The areas on each end  leading to this hidden track could be used to ensure any problems are few and far between. Maybe it’s overkill and I shouldn’t worry about it. 

Niel- you'll be satisfied!

I assure you  this is a good idea... (it's close to mine)

I made a one-rail guard rail in my long tunnels... and haven't had One derailment!  Several years of hiding under the scenery and I almost forgot they're there!  (Maybe the basic trackwork is to credit, but yours is at Least as good as mine.

I don't have the exterior balsa, so I'm sure yours will be flawless... unless the balsa adds a pathe for trucks to move outward on the curves... I might extend the ends a bit to make balsa longer than rail.

Best of luck with that.

Replicate the HO scale one

Neil,

Since the HO re-railers seem to work in most cases where the wheel set hasn't crossed the track center line, why not take that same approach to begin with? You can scratch one easily completely from rail.

Then if you want to guard against those cases of "way-off center" wheel sets, add what you show in your picture: a guide to bring wheel sets back from further out back to the rails and within parameters for the HO style re-railer to have success in re-railing them.

hotel and ELwire sign

Hotel 3D printed with EL wire and Neopixel sign.  Interior is on the way.

Sign sequences through the three states but I could not upload a .MOV file from my MAC. Any thoughts?  Also the picture look correct on my MAC but rotate when uploaded.    This always happens, can someone tell me how to correct?

Also some room lights are programmed to turn off and on randomly. 

Thanks

John

Moderator note: for videos, we recommend uploading to YouTube and embedding from there.

Detailing the area around the

Detailing the area around the church in Frankenstein. Doing this on the workbench and then will place on the layout and blend in. The single cross to the right is a monument to the dead of WW1.

Streaching an Oregon Rail Supply Bridge

Needing a wider stance for a PRR double track mainline with 2 3/4 inch center to center tracks, I had to insert "plates" into the gantry part of the bridge. 

Still a work in progress with masts and heads to install.

Preston Products

I finished up my version of Preston Products.  This is a branch of an industry on a friend's layout.  Mine is an ITLA Scale Models kit, kitbashed a little, with details and lighting added.  I can't say enough good things about this company's products.  Very fine detail, easy to build, FUN to build paint and weather.

Flat cars are almost done

I was surprised to learn that I started these four (yes four!) years ago.  Well, they're almost done now.  Maybe they'll be finished next year.

Precision Design  printed the lettering

I've stowed them on the layout while I return to the locomotive project:

If you're really bored, you can read all about them on my Wordpress blog: https://pembroke87.wordpress.com/tag/333-series/

Cheers,
Rene

DRGW RPO 62 and 63 in Fn3 update

RPOs 63 (foreground) and 62 (background) had differing details. Roof hand rails, ladders and platform details per prototypes have been installed. The handrails and support stanchions were scratched from brass rod, flat brass stock, 2" eye pins from Michaels and soldered together. The lower 18" of the car sides had steel plates attached to re-enforce the cars. These plates are next up on this project. I have made them from .010" styrene, embossed screw heads and painted. Since the styrene is so thin and to avoid a wavy appearance when applied to the sides of the car I am going to use transfer tape to attach the panels. After that will come decals, touch up painting and mounting trucks and couplers. 

Another PRR Signal Bridge Stretch!

What are the odds that two modelers here would be working on very similar signal bridge projects? Well, pretty good, I guess!

I was fortunate that I had a scrapbox with some left over Oregon parts. I remember seeing (was it Pittsburgh or Cresson?) a Pennsy bridge where one leg was omitted and the bridge end rested on a retaining wall. Not only did I want that look here, it was pretty much mandatory due to track clearance.

I'll have a total of eight heads on this, two on each mast with the lower one "cropped" in PRR form.

Here is a test fitting of the first mast. The outer two protect sidings and they are absolute with red LEDs in the two horizontal lights. The inner pair will be "permissive" with all-yellow LEDs.

Thank you,  Ed

More Switch Machines and a Sound Decoder

Arrived back in Vancouver to find a Canada Post Delivery notice.  14 more MP5 switch machines from Seth at Model Railroad Control Systems. That makes 20.  I doubt I’ll use all of them on the B&H even animating an Emma and my Stream Table, unless of course, I eventually add another deck!
 

I bought a TCS WOWSteam Decoder for the old Bachmann 2-8-0 Pancake Motor Steamer that will serve as a hog on the B&H. Now discovered that despite hunting for it it yesterday before flying west with no luck,, I must left the tender floor and trucks back at the farm somewhere, so will have to blast something together out of Evergreen Styrene until I find it.  No clue where I put it at home.  I find these days I spend more time looking for stuff than getting anything done. I’ve misplaced a router table too if you can believe it. Although I enjoy the flying, trying to live in two places is a nightmare. 

Couple of light fixtures.

The “standard light fixture and shade” for ground lights.  These will be assembled, warm white working ground lights in scale fixtures ready to install on a locomotive or caboose.

Central Lumber

This building and the learning curve that video documentation requires has had my workbench tied up for about two months now. Not complaining........actually having a blast with the combined challenges. Trusses were built and installed this week and I'm now getting prepared to finish the roof over the next two weeks. Is it obvious that I tend to move at a glacial pace?

Hey, when you're having a good time there's no need to rush!

Hey Rick!

How come you move so fast!!!  I know the feeling!!!

I really like the photos!

My day will probably pass in a blink too.

Have a good!

Layout workbench

I'm still using my layout as the workbench as the neighborhood on the layout continues to expand.  I feel like a homebuilder right now, but there is a light at the end of the tunnel.  After the white house is done I'll have two left, a two story and I need to pick up one more bungalow.

This is the current house (though none are technically finished yet as they all need lighting added).  I'm hoping to get this one more or less wrapped up this weekend.

First progress in a while

I'm back from school so i can finally work on my layout again. First, I started off with some work on the piers. Before, the front pier had some amateurish paving with painted cardboard, and the rear pier had no paving at all. Both piers had bad trackwork. I ripped that out, laid better, straighter track, and used some joint compound to make a better surface. While you can still see the ties a bit, I think that's just cause of the color. I don't know whether to use acrylic or spray paint or something, though, so I have to look into that.

I have the first tree done, I watched a vide by Luke Towan on how to make wire trees. It looks kind of weird from some angles as it is a first attempt, but it looks decent. I also have the geodesic dome house in place.

Speaking of the geodesic dome house, I finally started putting some cladding on it, I got some extra panels from a Walthers warehouse kit and cut it to shape. I ran out of the corrugated so I began to use smooth ones as well, but I think that adds interest. A few of the panels will be windows, too, and I might try to light it or detail the inside.

Resin kit progress

It's been a good month for resin kit progress. Two HO scale kits have been completed and have received a primer coat.

This is a small batch, private run of a D&H Seley hopper. The bare bones kit was four resin parts - car body, underframe, and two end castings for the sill and end posts. All other parts came from my supplies. The side ladders are made from 2x4 styrene stiles and 0.010-inch diameter styrene rungs. The sill steps are Yarmouth Model Works etched metal parts. This car rides on Tahoe Model Works AC&F arch bar trucks.

Car #2 is a Resin Car Works L&N steel gondola with drop doors. The kit has a one-piece body casting. Several details on the interior, underframe, sides, and ends were installed.

Both cars will be painted a mineral red color in the upcoming week. These were two of eleven freight cars that recently visited the paint booth. Four others were primed and five hoppers received a light grime coat as a first weathering step. Construction and modification of all eleven cars started this year.

Eric

I was going to use the

I was going to use the salting technique on this bridge to create some peeling an chipping, but I have not coarse salt, which I prefer to use along with fine salt.

@Deemiorogs

Do you have a salt based water softener system?  That's my course salt supply.