Atlas Classic

Looking at the box, two words are most important:

1. Classic - this is a clean-up and re-run of an older (but some groundbreaking) Kato-Atlas locomotive. Way, way, way before DCC. I think Kato... I believe they did some with Roco too.

2. DCC - the word is nowhere on the box. Not even with it's best friend "Ready."

I think if you are lucky it will have a PCB you can remove and rewire a PNP style board into. You may have to mill or remove weight in order to fit in a speaker. I did on a similar Atlas C425. 

But nothing and nobody is going to tell you what it's going to be like as much as pulling off the coupler boxes and getting the shell off it. 

The Atlas archive goes back

The Atlas archive goes back to 2003 on Classic RS-1's but those are "Silver" and "Gold" series. The NP #800 and #802 are in those series and there is no other mention of any other NP RS-1 in that archive. I'm OK with whatever I have to do to outfit it, I just wish I could find the listing for it.

This video may help.

Although I wouldn't suggest an early MRC decoder for the install.... 

Simple board, not DCC ready

If memory serves, since the hood is so low, this version only has a simple light board with no DCC plug.  The good news is all of the decoder makers sell "Atlas-style" replacement boards in both sound and non-sound versions.  If you want sound, there is room in the cab for a sugar cube speaker.  Cut an opening in the hood inside the cab and point the speaker downward.

I think this generation of Atlas Classic locos used 12 volt incandescent bulbs for the headlights, which I replace with warm-white LEDs to avoid heat issues.

Scott Chatfield

TCS install

I had forgotten that on another thread someone pointed me to a TCS install and this appears to be that same run of older loco judging by the exploded diagram. I've yet to take the shell off but I believe this is it.

https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/629

I can order that and do it myself or farm it out to the company they recommend. Price for labor, decoder and all actually seems pretty fair and I did get a really good price on the loco itself. I won't need the loco for awhile anyway so I've got time to think about it. Thank you guys for the help.

Maybe also consider....

http://www.scalesoundsystems.com has all the parts you will need including choice of decoders and stay alives.  RS-2 used for make and size comparison.

The referenced docs show a

The referenced docs show a Kato drive. I'm not positive for this unit since the RS-1 is smaller, but 99% of old Kato/Atlas Kato DC only locomotives are dead simple DCC installs.

In fact, I would go so far as to say they were borderline dcc ready. 

Again, RS-1 would suggest you need a more particular decoder, but for those following along. Old Atlas/Kato, like say, the yellow box C425, there's a gray plastic clip that has 2 solid inflexible wires in it that the truck leads connect to. In addition the motor has brass straps that then connect up to this same structure.

The clip that holds this plastic in place on the motor is 100% the same clip that holds the printed circuit board in newer KATO. They just swaped it out and changed little else.

The hardest part of the install is the brass straps coming off the motor. Those need converted to wire. Lighthing will also need to be redone, but once the straps on the motor are addressed, going from DC to running DCC is cake.

The difference in the list

The difference in the list price for the TCS kit which includes a sound decoder, mobo and a speaker and having that same installation done for me is 35 bucks plus I have to pay to ship the loco to them. As full as my plate is with projects, I'm inclined to go that route but it might have to wait a bit as I'm just about to make a purchase of track and turnouts for my harbor TOMA module that this loco is intended to run on. One thing at a time on my budget. Of course, judging by the going rate for RS-1's of this vintage on E-bay, I could list it and turn a small profit, then look for a later model but I really like the NP livery and it seems to be kind of rare.

The only thing I miss about my Digitrax system is being able to run a DC loco with it. As far as I know, you can't do that with DCC ++ or ++EX.

If you decide to flip it

then take a look at the new upcoming Bowser RS-3.  There's one in NP livery with sound.

I would pop the top on the

I would pop the top on the model and confirm what it looks like on the Inside. that TCS board with 21pin decoder is a bit of a Cadillac in terms of Installation. I'm sure you could find any number of options that will fit right in that are fine. An RS-1 shouldn't have any pickup issues across gaps so keep alive is a luxury.

An RS-3 would push my time

An RS-3 would push my time period too far forward. I'm stretching it now. It will be awhile before I can afford to do anything so I'll look at all the options. I'm just glad it appears to be a relatively simple conversion. I started with DCC early on back in my N -scale days so I have experience with hardwired decoder installs but my nerves aren't quite what they used to be and my hands aren't quite as steady either.

Older ? version on my workbench

I've got an older version planned for a DZ123 install.

Looks like I may cut the installed 'board' down to make room.

and

I've got an older version

I've got an older version planned for a DZ123 install.

Looks like I may cut the installed 'board' down to make room.

and

That's what I've done

This is an Atlas/Kato RS-3. I trimmed the board so I could fit the speakers.

Thanks guys

I still have not had a chance to pop the shell off this one, I've spent most of the day working with my Turntable trying to get it up and running again. The layout sat dormant for awhile and it's been a bear to get up and running again. Almost there and almost to starting to move forward on my harbor project when I can order the track and turnouts at beginning of the month. The ultimate goal is a sound decoder but now you guys have given me the idea of putting a basic decoder in to start with so thanks for that. it would allow me to run the loco "on the cheap"
 for a bit while I work on the harbor module. Then I could wire in a sound decoder later as done on the RS-3.

Have you checked out Bruce Petrarca's RS1 install?

Of course, Bruce doesn't say which version the locomotive was. The install was in 2010.  Here's the link to his page:  http://www.mrdccu.com/installation-hints/ho-diesel-sound/79-atlas-rs1.html

Yet another resource

Thanks for that Gary. I managed to find time to open it up today  and this is what I'm looking at. It's not quite PnP but there is a Soundtraxx Econami that is much like the decoder Bruce uses and it appears to be the same fit. Might be a fairly reasonable budget solution and not a super tough install.

A reasonable option

This is the decoder I'm looking at now. Looks like a good failry economical option https://soundtraxx.com/products/econami-digital-sound-decoders/eco-pnp/I can get it from Modeltrainstuff.com for about 65 bucks.

I'll have to figure out a speaker. I'll probably get the TCS one shown in their link because it has an enclosure with it and it looks like it can be fitted without too much issue.

So this is what I went with

I got my parts in today. I ended up going with the Soundtraxx Econami diesel decoder and the TCS speaker used in their installation with one of their 21 pin decoders. This is what I decided was best within my budget. I can always go back and swap in a decoder buddy and a more full featured 21 pin decoder later if I decide it's necessary. I'll also skip the keep alive for right now but this particular board does have a place for one.

Nice!

I like it, especially since you left a space for a Keep-Alive. I now consider them mandatory on all sound decoders. I can't remember if the lights are LED or not; will you replace them with this install, or keep them stock?

They are bulbs

A couple of pics back you can see them on the stock board. I already have a bunch of golden white LED's I ordered for lighting buildings and such so I'll use a pair of those.

Setback becomes end to procrastination

So after having a setback with my Bachmann 2-6-0 Mogul that I have to wait on parts to fix, I have decided to pull this several months delayed project out of storage and get going. My workbench is a mess as usual so while I am trying to get it cleaned up I have temporarily setup shop on my car barge module in order to take inventory of what I have and take stock of what I need to do. Most everything I need is pictured except for some golden white LED's and dropping resistors that I have stashed away somewhere. I also realized today that I must have stashed the couplers away somewhere else as they are not in the box with the loco. I could save so much time if I stopped hiding things from myself.

Anyway, this should be a fairly straightforward install and  conversion. I have changed the thread title to better reflect what's going on here now...

Found the couplers

Haven't started yet but I found the couplers. I had a vague memory of having put them in a jar with some Tichy ore car parts, I don't why I would have done that but sure enough, there they were. Saves me some money not having to buy new ones. I've also located my golden white LED supply. Found the whole bag of them and the dropping resistors. One day I'm going to clean and organize this place. At least that's what I tell myself.

Work begins

So after a good nights sleep work begins. The new Soundtraxx Econami fits right into the place of the old circuit board albeit with a tiny bit of effort that concerned me a bit but it snapped in with a tad of pressure. I am of mixed feelings about using the plastic clips to secure the wires. On the one hand they are convenient but on the other I can still hear my late fathers voice telling me I should "always solder everything" and I'm going to have to fire up the iron anyway to do the speaker and light connections. This is just testing though so I went with them at first. Would love to hear folks thoughts on the clips.

Took a bit of wheel cleaning to get the loco moving but move it does and after being so disheartened with my Mogul going down, I breathed a large sigh of relief to see it go. I have no idea of the history of this unit, I got it online for a really good price at an "Etsy" shop of all places.

Anyway now comes the hard part, getting the speaker and lights installed where the whole thing will go back together. I will say that I'm very happy so far, I know there are more capable 21 pin decoder and decoder motherboard combos out there, as pictured earlier in this thread, but for my needs and budget this seems to be a perfect fit and it also has the option of a keep alive if I should choose to install one.