kchildress

I've got a dilemma.  There doesn't seem to be a can (or three) of pure white acrylic model spray paint on the North American continent.  I'm looking for others to share their experiences with painting balsa with spray paints other than acrylic. 

I've read dozens of threads on this topic and I just don't see folks explicitly, specifically, stating what spray's they are using.  Lots and lots of people explain they just use "cheap rattle can sprays", but no specifics on what that is. Are we talking laquer, enamel, what?  Any brand that you think outshines the others? Where are you getting it? Most importantly, does it cover well and retain very fine detail?

I've decided to spray the balsa straight and not sealing the wood first. I don't care if that takes 20 light coats and a month to complete.  Today I tested three different enamel sprays that I had laying around from three different manufactures - one satin, one gloss, and one flat.  I took it real slow for the first couple coats.  No warping.  The third coat I really laid it on just to see if being "wetter" would cause warping and had no problems there.

The only real problem I saw with my tests is the nozzles just suck for very light applications. I'm seeing obvious spattering when I'm trying to lay on a coat of mist. 

I've been shopping for Tamiya, Revell Spray Color, and Humbrol.  Plenty of those to be found in Europe and Australia, but everything in pure white seems to be wiped out in the U.S. 

Thanks in advance for helping me beat a dead horse,

Kevin

 

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kchildress

I wonder ...

I wonder if this fits the bill?  Good reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Fast-Dry-Low-Odor-VOC/dp/B07SZH8WDX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1PPP1EYIKKNQV&dchild=1&keywords=white%2Bacrylic%2Bspray%2Bpaint%2Bfor%2Bcrafts&qid=1610310448&sprefix=white%2Bacrylic%2Bsp%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFTV0ZLOExITkJLSVEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxNTIzODUzMU9ZWTczOFdJSFBKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2NjkyMTUyMUJUSDAyMTlDNEtGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

Reply 0
UPWilly

Like to understand

Questions:

1. For which purpose(s) are you wanting to use Balsa rather than Basswood or styrene?

2. What is it about white paint that cannot be done with a clear sealer (as sealer is made to seal, not color)?

Discussion thread on Balsa versus Basswood versus Styrene:

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/balsa-wood-for-scratch-building-vs-basswood-who-supplies-it-12195756

Bill D.

egendpic.jpg 

N Scale (1:160), not N Gauge. DC (analog), Stapleton PWM Throttle.

Proto-freelance Southwest U.S. 2nd half 20th Century.

Keep on trackin'

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kchildress

For Understanding ...

1. For which purpose(s) are you wanting to use Balsa rather than Basswood or styrene?

Primarily because I'm committed to balsa, being all of my clapboard siding is made of balsa (image below) and I'm deep into construction.  I'd be indifferent on balsa vs. basswood - it's just that the siding I selected is made of balsa. And I wanted to use wood, not styrene.  

2. What is it about white paint that cannot be done with a clear sealer (as sealer is made to seal, not color)?

I don't understand this question.  I suppose because I want the structure to be painted white.

%20px(1).jpg 

Reply 0
ctxmf74

Acrylic or enamel?

  Most rattle cans are solvent based , I guess they make water based spray cans but I've never used them. Hobby sized rattle cans are a softer spray but don't hold as much paint so most folks go with hardware store cans and if they need a softer spray they break out their airbrush. Personally for a wooden sided building I'd experiment with brush painting it with flat white paint or primer.Maybe get one of the cheap small "test" cans at Home Depot or Lowes. If the test panel doesn't warp when it's dried then I'd proceed to maybe the back of the model and see how that goes, saving the front for last. . I try to brace the inside of structures to keep them from warping but sometimes it's not possible.....DaveB

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mike horton

Walmart,

Has,cheap white, spray paint, it’s enamel, fairly thin, doesn’t plug in details. There gray primer was great, gone, now I use flat white.

Reply 0
sue

I used to use whatever spray

I used to use whatever spray paint was on the shelf at witch ever store I was in at the time. I looked at color and price only. Never an issue.

When I nolonger could use spray cans in the house, [wife health issues] I now buy whatever craft paint the store has. Airbrush or brush or sponge. Never had a issue.

IMHO your over thinking this project Had I know building model structures was this complex I would had never started

Reply 0
Goober

forget model spray paints'

Krylon, and some Rustolem work well on Balsa.  I build a lot using Balsa as well. I like it and I get good results.  The secret is to spray both sides.  No warping.  Krylon makes a gloss, and a flat white.  Lowes carries it.

ANother trick I discovered, and worth a test by you is using food coloring.  The balsa sokes it up and you get a natural weathered look.  However, no white in FC. I also use furniture markers.  Again no white. However,

DR. Bens makes a white wash solution that works perfect on balsa.  Take a look at his web site. Good luck with your quest...

😉
Reply 0
UPWilly

@kchildress - understanding

Thanks for the reply. I see your point.

Regarding using a sealer, I use Delta Ceramcoat All Purpose Sealer on Balsa. I thin it a bit with water, since it is rather thick when used on N scale. The sealer prevents the final paint from soaking in to the fiber. As far as I know, this sealer does not come in a spray can - I use a soft broad brush (fine bristles about 1/2 inch wide) to apply. It is labeled as fast drying, low odor and non-toxic. I purchased it in an 8 Fl. Oz. bottle and it has lasted for years. Easy cleanup with water (I suggest a dish detergent like Dawn during cleaning - sparingly, a drop or two goes a long way).

I do use some Balsa myself, not so much for models, but for special containers, et al. Balsa is easy to work with when cut with a sharp knife. I also use a fine "razor saw" for thicker pieces.

Balsa is good for supporting and bracing card stock models and I have used some for that purpose, but have used mostly 3/16" foam core board for that.

Whenever I model in wood, I seal (or paint) both sides concurrently to avoid warping.

 

Bill D.

egendpic.jpg 

N Scale (1:160), not N Gauge. DC (analog), Stapleton PWM Throttle.

Proto-freelance Southwest U.S. 2nd half 20th Century.

Keep on trackin'

Reply 0
Goober

Gesso

Gesso will do the same thing as  Delta Cream coat. ALso Vajello makes a white primer that works well to. 

Some builders use a clear spray sealer, however, the paint will not cover as well.. I mostly use Gesso...

😉
Reply 0
Goober

Painting Balsa WHite

A final response from you would have been appreciated'...... Point being, what have you decided'...?????

😉
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Modeltruckshop

acrylic spray paint

The Kobra brand acrylic spray paints are great.  Almost no odor, very fast dry time and very smooth finish.   I like their matte clear. As Testors dulcoat as been tougher to find this is a great alternative.  It comes in full size cans not model sized and is typically about $6 +/- .  There are various tips available for their cans as well but the factory stock tip is fine for models.

 

Steve

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Goober

Steve, Kobra paint

Steve, where are you buying the Kobra paint?  I would like to give it a try.  I'm restoring Corgi and Dinky cars.  This sounds like it may good for this kind of work'... Thanks'..

😉
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Modeltruckshop

Goober

I buy it locally at a place called Lookout Supply. Here in Columbus, Ohio. 
 

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eastwind

For white:

Since no white food coloring or furniture pens, in place of those what about typist's correction fluid (white out). 

Though I don't even know if that's still made, since you can hardly find a typewriter any more, but you might have half a bottle floating around in a desk somewhere. Nice little brush too.

You can call me EW. Here's my blog index

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