First of our new series: Aha Moment

Perfect!

What a great presentation Joe!

I definitely learnt something new, I knew graphite was great for electrical conductivity but had no idea how to apply it properly.

Thanks, Luke

Quick and to the point.

I liked it.  It explained the problem, gave a solution, and showed how to apply the solution.

Been using the 4B graphite bar for a while.  Bought one at the local arts&craft using one of those 50% off coupons, so it was $2 to give it a try.

Got it right after reading about it in the Run-like-a-dream Trackwork ebook.

Great series.  Looking forward to the last one in the series, Locomotives.

Unless you extend it with a Run-like-a-dream Electronics, Power Supplies, and Signalling ebook. wink wink

Janet N.

Meets the Objective

of "short and to-the-point video with zero fluff". As far as the content/subject matter......after application, is the graphite stationary or do the wheels move it along the track? Do we need to be careful around turnouts (frogs and points)? I've seen graphite rods for mechanical pencils labeled 4B, same thing? I probably have some of those rods laying around the house, could save a trip to Michael's.

Thanks, Terry

Just a little help.

First of all, I couldn't view the entire video made by Joe. But. I've used graphite and it works. I just dabbed a bit every here and there on the inside edge of the rails and let the cars spread it over the track - to answer the first question. Yes, I didn't touch the turnout points or such. Just a dab on the rails where it's safe and the cars spreading take away any danger of damaging the points, etc. Graphite rods such as 4b are the correct ones. The 4 is softer than the 2, etc. If any of this is wrong, or Joe disputes, he's welcome to correct anything I say. He's the expert because he has a larger layout. Mine is just a shelf and is easy to use graphite. Once every 6 months or so I re-clean with alcohol and reapply graphite. I little bit goes a LOOOONG way.

A correction.

I said 4 is softer than 2. That may be backwards. The main point is to use a soft graphite. I would think that if the graphite is too hard, it would be harder to tell if you have too much. I use a very soft graphite and dab with my finger in a soft cloth/t shirt. That way, as I go along, can tell it there's too much. Wipe it off immediately and go on. Don't try to re-apply. Those cars will spread it along the rails well enough. I hope I didn't confuse anyone about pencil leads. I simply don't remember. And I had used a lot of different leads when drafting and drawing.

Graphite stick and pencil grading for hardness

Yes 4B is softer

Thank YOU Joe

Now that's what I call a clarification. A 2H is what is a standard wood pencil of quality/like Ticonderoga. As I mentioned, I use a relatively soft graphite. Soft enough that it will make dust if dabbed too hard. That way, I know when I have "just enough" on the rail. I found in my pencil stash, just now, a large drawing pencil printing almost invisible, but I can read "000" or "OOO". As thick as any pencil I've seen and is so soft, I might try it to see what it's like. On first glance though, it seems way too soft. I don't worry, I still have a huge saved bunch of lead shavings. No wood, no metal, etc. Just right for my track. And plenty more plain lead of whatever grade I want. Not as many as the chart above, but at least 6 different leads. Thanks again to Joe. "You the man!"

For Terry

Hi Terry,

Your 4B mechanical pencil rods will do just fine. The 4B rods will be very close if not exactly the same chemical make up as the graphite blocks shown in the video. Your mechanical pencil body will protect the 4B rod from breakage.  

For your rods, may I suggest a subtly different mode of application? If you snap the point off one of the rods and go in at about a 45-degree angle to the edge highlighted in the video, the rod stump will quickly wear to a groove that will fit the rail head. This will make application very easy.  

You do not have to mash the graphite rod or stick through the railhead. A light pressure just firm enough to maintain contact between the graphite and the railhead is more than sufficient to do the job. 

Remember - Clean your tracks and wheels very well first, apply a light "swipe" along the railhead as indicated in the video, and, run some trains. If you can see it, then you are applying graphite in too thick a layer.

Thanks

Thanks to everyone for their feedback, much appreciated!

Terry