Bachmann 2-8-0

I believe the steps on each side of the boiler that run from the pilot to the walk way have a pin that goes into the boiler if from of the walk way. Gently pull away a little to release them. Here is where to find a diagram for the loco.

:  https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=68_86&zenid=l4egieeh0f3gbf424j1ohuv9r6        Joe

Cogged Belt

Is this HO or N?  If HO, depending on the age, you may have a cogged belt problem.  Removing the boiler is only the first part.  Per doctorwayne, the steps to remove the cab/boiler are:

• To remove the boiler/cab assembly, remove the drawbar screw and pull the upper ends of the front steps away from the smokebox.
• Disconnect the power reverse from the valve gear, then remove the lead truck and its spring, and the screw thus revealed.
• The rear of the cab/boiler assembly can then be lifted and pushed forward so that the smokebox can slide free of the interior weight.

Here's what it looks like dismantled:

The motor is in the top left part, and the cogged belt drives the worm gear.  You need to take the split frame pieces apart to get to the belt and replace it.

another resource...

Seems the advice here is better than I expected, and I hold this forum in HIGH regard that way.

If this still isn't matching what you see, look here for assembly drawings collected from multiple manufacturers.

http://www.hoseeker.com

It should be noted that many sets of tools got sold or leased to many manufacturers. Sometimes tooling went through four or more owners, so the name you see may not be the source of the tools.

 This is what is holding you

This is what is holding you up : - )

Source : https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H114X-IS001.PDF

Marc

Successful

Thank you Joe, Garry, Peter and Marc for your help. I have the diagram for this engine, it is good for the part-numbers, but how these parts get together is not so obvious, at least for me. Indeed, I was body-checked by the pins at the stairs and I hope these will slip back as easily as these got out of the smoke-box. I have to fix the trouble now, the belt pulley on the motor axle is split.

Thanks again and have a good time.

Rene.

How reliable are these belt

How reliable are these belt drive locos?

Seems as though I have heard various rumors about that, and I'd like to hear some opinions. I have a number of the 2-8-0 that I have never run,...a few new ones and a couple of used ones.

I recently purchased a Russian decapod with this belt drive mechanism, and I found it to be a VERY smooth running loco.

Good Question Brian

I have one from their first release. It was an excellent runner for years. Shortly after we moved into this house about 4 yrs ago it started to run slower and slower until it quit altogether. I was able to get it apart and my neighbor, also a train nut took a look at it and discovered that a driver had slipped out of quarter. Neither one of us have a clue as to why. Again it ran like it's old self.

Fast forward to this year. I am not much of an operator, prefer building mostly. After taking my layout apart and moving it all out of the way for floor replacement I got the layout up and running again in it's new space. Pulled out the Bachman 2-8-0 to give it some exercise and to test track laying quality and it wouldn't move. No motor noise, nothing. Every other loco DC or DCC ran just fine. I haven't opened it up to see what the issue is.

One stray thought I had back with the first issue was what would it take to replace the whole drive chain/gear set up with metal parts and no chain. No clue and way over my head.

I got a good 20? years of off and on use with it so I can't complain. I have 2 MDC kits one is their old timer 2-8-0. It is way older and has given me no trouble over the years. I am keeping my eyes out for another at our local train shows.

Jack

I purchased mine in 1999 or

I purchased mine in 1999 or 2000 and it still runs fine.

Gale