BillSz

I have been an armchair modeler for more years than I care admit to but am finally ready to actually start building something. I find MR's On30 Olympia intriguing but before I venture into On30 I have a couple of questions for those of you in the scale.

1. Do the locomotives (Shay, Heisler, Porter) run smoothly at low speeds? A small logging layout interests me but only if the locomotives run well. When I watch videos of the locos it seems then tend to stutter at low speeds. Is this typical?

2. Availability of locomotives/rolling stock. I was disappointed to learn that Bachmann no longer manufactures the Shay loco. I contacted them and it appears they have no plans to reissue it. It seems like Bachmann is a major suppler in On30 and my fear is that they will stop producing their items. After speaking with a number of individuals in N and HO scales it appears the hobby has become one of order now and you'll get it sometime in the future. Being recently retired I would prefer not to have to wait years for a product to be available.

I like the concept behind the Olympia railroad and feel it would be interesting to build but only if the locos run smoothly otherwise I would find it very frustrating. So before I switch my focus to either HO or N I would be very interested to hear the thoughts of those of you involved with this scale.

Thank you in advance for sharing your insights,

Bill

Reply 0
p51

My take

Simply put, On30 is NOT for everyone, nor is any narrow gauge.

You can’t have interchange and most narrow gauge railroads ran on the edge of bankruptcy (most were gone by the 1950s). The main reason many train fans ONLY think of the Rio Grande are for narrow gauge is that it was still running, with steam, way past when almost all other narrow gauge lines were ripped up.

In other words, if you wanna model in On30, you should already be thinking in a narrow gauge mindset and you want an era during or well before the 1950s (I model 1943 and that’s really quite later than many other On30 layouts I know of).

As for On30 in general, well, it’s the red-headed stepchild of the hobby. Many within the hobby don’t take it seriously, and Model Railroader only just started to using the term On30 and was using “On 2 ½” as late as last year in print.

Many in the hobby think On30 is all about:

  • Cars as short as they can get
  • Curves as tight as they can get
  • Layouts as whimsical as they can get (like a cartoon)

I know in my own case as well as a recently-sold On30 basement filler nearby, visitors often say, upon seeing attempts to model in On30 that aren’t whimsical with shorty cars. The On30 Annual has done an amazing job of promoting the more ‘serious hobbyist’ nature of On30, but I think it’s fair to say that in many cases, people get into On30 to escape the bounds of reality and want to do whatever they want.

Bachmann is clearly the primary vendor for the hobby. They’ve come out with new stuff every now and then (their latest was the Army Baldwin class ten 2-6-2 from WW1) but I think the market has sort of peaked for them. Some of their previous best sellers, they don’t even currently make. I’ve asked Bachmann reps at shows, but they are evasive on the actual answers as to why.

With On30 or anything NG, you need to be able to make your own stuff to a degree. Yeah, you have structures and landscaping stuff suitable for O scale for those who make 2-rail standard gauge, 3-rail and the like, but a great deal of On30 stuff is scratch-built or made from laser kits. Lots of On30 structures, I’ve seen, are made of real wood. As On30 really started out as a ‘do it yourself’ portion t the hobby, you’ll find the older guys into On30 resent the RTR ‘out of the box’ nature that Bachmann brought to the table.

Some people get into On30 thinking it’s just Ho scale with different sized figures. Not so. You have to consider the orders of magnitude for structures and any detail components, as it’s twice the size of HO. Those spaces get filled FAST. I’ve noticed that generally, structures in any scale take up the same room. In other words, if you model N scale, you’re apt to make a station a certain size in real life. If you go to HO, it’s the same overall real world size but in scale, the depot is now smaller. In On30, it takes up the same room your N scale depot did, but for your O scale figures, it’s now really small.

I hope some of this rambling response helps…

Reply 2
efehser

On30

1: Running quality: both the Heisler and Porter from Bachmann run quite well, very smooth. The Porter does run into short wheelbase issues, but this is nothing good track work won't overcome. The Shay, when the gear issues are fixed, runs nicely. But, gear issues.

 

Availability: Heislers and Porters are common, and can be gotten at a reasonable price, much below msrp. What's can be found, but will cost more. And, gear issues.

 

on30 is becoming something of a craftsman guage, although a lot of the stock is still available. Kitbashing, many times with HO mechs, is very common.

Also, don't discount some of the other locos for a logging line. Prototype loggers were well known for using whatever was available cheap. You could use the Trench loco, and even the mallets. The mallets btw are quite capable of running 18" or even 15" radius.

Finally, there are a number of groups on other platforms such as Facebook that cater to the Narrow O crowd and have a lot of ideas.

Eric

Modeling On30 and proud of it. There is a jar of rivets on the workbench if you feel the need to count.

Reply 1
Bagal

Good comments above

I have the Heisler and outside frame 4-4-0.Both run very nicely.

The Bachmann products are a mix of 36", 30", and 24" prototypes. This can make it a little difficult in selecting equipment, that is if you are concerned about such things. I have chosen to model 30" with a vaguely South American look. Whimsical perhaps.

But wouldn't it have been nice if they also had correct gauge 24" and 36" models? The Trench loco is a nice addition, I think it represents a 24: gauge prototype. Not sure what it would look like alongside the outside frame Consolidation?

For anyone starting out there doesn't seem to be a lot currently available, but Heislers are still available for a logging layout.

bagal

 

Reply 0
f134kilmil

Thoughts From an Amateur

I'm a relatively new convert to On30 after years of inactivity in model railroading, and far from a master modeler. That said:

1. Are you a rivet counter? If so, On30 is probably not for you. On my model RR, there are only 2 rules:

     Rule #1: The RR General Manager is always right.

     Rule #2: When the GM is wrong, refer to Rule #1.

The only person I need to please is myself. I really don't care what the rivet-counter thinks. I'm not modeling a specific prototype. I'm in the hobby for fun, not frustration or criticism.

2. For On30 there are a lot of readily-available HO track products. Ditto on structures, ranging from ready-built to kits requiring various degrees of building skills. Even I can handle most of the laser-cut parts. S-scale bridges are well-suited.

3. Bachmann is indeed the main supplier. They have made O-Scale narrow gauge affordable. They have had gear issues in the past on some of their engines but seem to have resolved them. I love my Shay, and can't understand why they won't produce it again. It would be perfect for your desires. But marketing considerations drive productions. On30 is still a niche market.

4. There are a number of small-business suppliers who produce cars, structures, detail parts, etc.

5. On30 trains are large-enough for my geriatric eyes and hands to see & handle. While narrow-gauge engines & cars are about 3/4 size of standard-gauge items, people & buildings are not. Relatively-speaking, structures require more space, a factor you need to consider in your planning. But the tighter curves mean I don't need a mansion to have enough space to build something more than a simple oval.

6. Let practical considerations guide your track plan, and I had to break my HO-scale thinking, especially track-spacing. DON'T PUT ANYTHING WHERE YOU CAN'T REACH IT!! Don't ask how I know this. My tunnels have removable panels so I can retrieve the occasional derailed car.

7. I use RailPro vice DCC with battery power. On my few engines, other than the Shay, the components will fit in the tender. For the Shay, a dedicated battery car is required. I use a tool car as the Shay pulls a combination work train & mine cars. Battery power means I don't have to worry about insulating rail gaps or cleaning track and wheels. Limitations of battery power can be endurance (an hour is fine for my arthritic knees), and a derailment means the engine keeps running until it encounters something solid, like scenery, a structure, or the floor. The types of control and power are discussed elsewhere in this forum.

8. I have a Porter, which you seem to have under consideration. It's a "cute" engine & very practical for narrow gauge. However, it's very light & can pull only a few cars. I added some weight to mine for improved traction. I added a tender to hold the battery & RailPro components.

My 2-cents worth.

Steve Miller, Fredericksburg, VA

Steve Miller

Fredericksburg, VA

Reply 1
Oztrainz

Additional reading for Bill

Hi Bill, all,

The subject of On30 has been raised here in the past. For additional reading about some of the other aspects involved with On30 rolling stock and layout design. As a start can I suggest

  1. https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/lets-talk-about-on30-12192972 - discusses some of the issues encounterred when modelling On30. 
  2. Not all passengers rode in Bachmann type passenger vehicles - especially on logging and industrial lines. For inspiration have a look at  https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/looking-for-similar-tourist-carsanyone-have-any-pics-to-point-me-at-12201874 Notice the cars at Puffing Billy. This is a REAL 30" gauge line. These cars are built on a 22'6" standard chassis that was used for flatcars, gondolas, boxcars, livestock wagons and passenger cars. Also note the knuckle couplers - when scaled to 1/48 the coupler dimensions (3/4 of full size standard gauge) go close to a KD #5 and are mounted at "standard HO height (as supplied "out-of-the-box" by Bachmann) 
  3. There were a lot of 30" and 750 mm railroad around the world. Remember 30" track gauge is only 6" away from both 2' and 3' track gauges. Again there were probably a lot of 3'6" gauge railroads that were built around the world than for 2', 2'6' and 3' track gauges combined. Locomotive manufacturers around the world can and did supply the same locomotive on different track gauges. When designing your model railroad, don't get too fixated on which locomotive or wagon ran on what track gauge. For some other 30" gauge inspiration have a look at   https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/seeking-photos-of-small-colonial-steam-12193198
  4. You haven't mentioned Bachmann's other geared locomotive - the Climax. Again one of these actually ran on 30" gauge tracks and it actually still runs. Dimensionally it is very close to the Bachmann offering and the Climax appeared to avoid the worst of the gear cracking problems previously mentioned. The real one can be seen in action below

   

At about 6 minutes in that's a real 30" gauge Shay (worked in Taiwan) and at about 8 minutes in,  that's one of the 30" gauge 2-6-2 tank locomotives. 

That ought to do to get things started,

Regards,

John Garaty

Unanderra in oz

Read my Blog

Reply 0
RGSMudhen

Hi Bill, I'll throw a few

Hi Bill,

I'll throw a few more thoughts on the table for you.

Although Bachmann led the charge in On30, lots of different manufacturers have brought lots of products to the marketplace.  Bachmann's big drawback is found in the slightly undersized cars they put out.  They are good models, but are smaller than other brands that offer a more robust feel.  My entrance to On30 began nearly 12 years ago when I bought some Bachmann equipment from Ridge Road Station in New York as they were unfortunately going out of business. 

First, I don't model a small railroad, meaning On30 has been the choice of many micro-layouts because there are several small Porter and diesel units, plus there are a lot of opportunities to scratchbuild (although those exist in any scale).  As an example, I model the RGS (bet you couldn't guess that) and currently have many engines that were on the roster such as #40, #20, #455, #461 and a few other that would have been leased. I also have several D&RGW road engines that operated on the railroad before its demise.  All of my engines are purchased and then many are modified.  I only mention this as sometimes narrow gauge modelers flock to On3, but I don't have that kind of real estate.  I have 32" max radius in corners and cinch down to 28" within yard limits and for turning wyes.  I don't have issues with larger engines, but I won't run anything larger than a 460 series K-27 ever. If you wanted to get engines, EBay has been very nice to me and I have bought some items at shows.  Sometimes people just want to dump their Bachmann items at train shows, so keep a weathered eye out for bargains (I went to Trainfest two years ago and a vendor was selling brand new cars for $15- I didn't need any but bought a motorcar for $20).  Broadway Limited Imports and MMI imports are offered online from time to time.  You just have to know what you want to spend and stick to it.  Unfortunately, with everything now, even auction prices are crazy, so finding some bargains my be difficult, but they are out there.  Also you can check some On30 facebook sites where people list items for sale as well.

When I started the On30 journey, Bachmann was king, but there are many options.  First, I will tell you to stay away from EBay for rolling stock because people selling things there are insane!  People will want $20 shipping, making cars cost as much as $60+ by the time you get them at your doorstop.  Shop around.  Also know you can purchase On3 cars and, with a few modifications (sometimes only wheelsets), have some good operating models.  San Juan Car Company makes a mean On30 drop bottom gondola and high side gondola.  I have also bought On30 and On3 tank cars and stock cars ready built and as kits from them as well.  Once again, train shows are awesome for finding items.  I offered to purchase 8 Gramps tanks for $50 a piece from one vendor (and got them).  I have purchased San Juan kits for $20 because the seller wanted to get rid of them (they got some on trade for some HO equipment and didn't want to deal with it).

Another source of equipment is from Accucraft.  They make a pretty decent tank, box, flat car and short caboose, as well as a hefty passenger car.  A good model for the money, but will need some updates to look perfect, but is a good model to work with.  Buy direct from Accucraft.  I find them on EBay all the time overpriced with more outrageous shipping attached.  Accucraft generally has them in stock and shipping is very reasonable.  I have bought them direct for $34.95 a car and something like $15 shipping, but I bought 12 box cars and ten tanks at one crack.  And there are bargains to be had on the auctions.  Be willing to make an offer.  I have seen Accucraft passenger cars offered at $95 apiece, but have used the make an offer price to get an awesome deal.  I picked up 2 of them for $55 apiece.  You can only receive if you are willing to ask.    Some people may think their offer is an insult, but sometimes if you ask the right way and they just want to part with them, they will make you a deal.  Then also make sure they do combined shipping.  That's how to make it worthwhile sometimes. The nice thing about the Accucraft cars is they are set up to use HO height or On3 coupler height (you just have to remove the shim on the coupler pocket).  

And there are lots of other manufacturers making new On30 items every day, plus you can easily modify or adjust HO or Sn3 items with a bit of ingenuity.  Be willing to call around too. Crusader Models, located in Philadelphia, has sold me some items at very good prices.  

Track is readily available.  One can use HO track, but it looks a bit weird and out of context, but you can pick up components cheap as well.  I use Micro Engineering Code 83 On30 track and their #5 turnouts and they work well.  But if you buy it, go to MicroMark.  Sign up for their catalog and every now and then they run free shipping.  If you buy 3 or more bundles of track, the price drops from $44.95 to $36.95.  Once again EBay has lots of track available, but know what is a good price.  I have bought lots of flex track for well less than $25 a bundle.  There is an auction right now where the seller wants $50 for a bundle and $22 shipping.  That's ridiculous!!!

Lastly, Trainland and other big dealers will run specials.  I picked up a DCC 4-6-0 from them for $79.95 and only $10 shipping.  I must say I love the hunt just as much as modeling.  I have only bought ONE item ever for my railroad at full price and that was an extravagant purchase because it was my Christmas present.

As for operations, I haven't had many stalling problems, but my engines are a bit larger than most.  I can only suggest a keep alive, which I have seen solve much of that problem for my friends.

Hope this information helps.  I love the size, but have to admit you need some space as everyone else mentioned for structures, but that's part of the fun.  It's a wonderful scale to make fantasy come to life.  I really like many of the models I have seen people build over the years, but also know you can go full-blown if you also desire.

Daryl

Reply 1
WRGMILW

Hi BILL from another Bill

On30 is a good scale !  

There are some nice engines out there .

I have been slowly collecting(Over 6 years)  Engines & Freight cars & passenger cars . 

I also run 3 other scales .  O-3rail (lionel) , HO , & recently N scale.  

I have some Buildings in O- scale & Ho Track .  That is why I got into On30 . 

I do Hope Someone  makes a Shay again .   

If you want to see On30 trains running , Go to You Tube & Type in 0n30 Train Layouts ! 

There are a few Great layouts to watch & see !  

Enjoy the Train Hobby no Matter the Scale ! 

 

Reply 0
p51

Heights

Quote:

@RGSMudhen

The nice thing about the Accucraft cars is they are set up to use HO height or On3 coupler height (you just have to remove the shim on the coupler pocket). 

I did not know that. I have a handful of their boxcars and I haven't gotten around to stripping the Rio Grande markings off of them to letter them for the ET&WNC. I hadn't looked at the coupler heights that I can recall but the two AMS coaches I have do couple with my Bachmann ten-wheelers, I guess as they're made for the right height?

That's the big problem with a lot of stuff that's made generically for O scale narrow gauge, in that they usually space the couplers for On3 which mean you have shim the heck out of the coupler to get them low enough for On30. At one point I seriously considered raising my couplers to On3 height (and using On3 couplers) as the ET&WNC ran their cars the same coupler height as standard gauge cars. They ten-wheelers had a special design for swivel couplers which would couple to standard gauge cars to run on the dual gauge tracks from Johnson City to outside Elizabethton, TN.

The kits I've built of ET&WNC wood hoppers, caboose 505 and a couple of projects I've just completed for an older wood kit and a scratch built box car all have coupler height issues that I had to shim the heck out of those. They just look odd like that. The hopper cars, I used the lowest trucks I could find and lowered them as good as I could for operation, way lower looking than the prototype (though I think they look okay like that)

Check out the end of 505 here:

Reply 0
Ed Wills
BillSz wrote:

I have been an armchair modeler for more years than I care admit to but am finally ready to actually start building something. I find MR's On30 Olympia intriguing but before I venture into On30 I have a couple of questions for those of you in the scale.

1. Do the locomotives (Shay, Heisler, Porter) run smoothly at low speeds? A small logging layout interests me but only if the locomotives run well. When I watch videos of the locos it seems then tend to stutter at low speeds. Is this typical?

2. Availability of locomotives/rolling stock. I was disappointed to learn that Bachmann no longer manufactures the Shay loco. I contacted them and it appears they have no plans to reissue it. It seems like Bachmann is a major suppler in On30 and my fear is that they will stop producing their items. After speaking with a number of individuals in N and HO scales it appears the hobby has become one of order now and you'll get it sometime in the future. Being recently retired I would prefer not to have to wait years for a product to be available.

I like the concept behind the Olympia railroad and feel it would be interesting to build but only if the locos run smoothly otherwise I would find it very frustrating. So before I switch my focus to either HO or N I would be very interested to hear the thoughts of those of you involved with this scale.

Thank you in advance for sharing your insights,

Bill


Reply 1
Ed Wills
Hi.  I am a newcomer to this forum, and bookmarked this On30 page. Thank you all for the information.  I cannot seem to find a search option for topics, so posted on a 'Peco points' series of posts.  Basically, I am wondering if anyone modelling On30 and using Peco On30 points, has found an easy way to install frog switching on these points? Peco has not engineered them to be easily  modified as they have on their 00/HO series of points i.e. no extra wire for the frog, and no bare rail underneath to bridge the switch rails, although cutting away some plastic is a minor problem in the circumstances.  Thank you for any advice. EW
Reply 0
Ed Wills
p51 wrote:

My take

Simply put, On30 is NOT for everyone, nor is any narrow gauge.

You can’t have interchange and most narrow gauge railroads ran on the edge of bankruptcy (most were gone by the 1950s). The main reason many train fans ONLY think of the Rio Grande are for narrow gauge is that it was still running, with steam, way past when almost all other narrow gauge lines were ripped up.

In other words, if you wanna model in On30, you should already be thinking in a narrow gauge mindset and you want an era during or well before the 1950s (I model 1943 and that’s really quite later than many other On30 layouts I know of).

As for On30 in general, well, it’s the red-headed stepchild of the hobby. Many within the hobby don’t take it seriously, and Model Railroader only just started to using the term On30 and was using “On 2 ½” as late as last year in print.

Many in the hobby think On30 is all about:

  • Cars as short as they can get
  • Curves as tight as they can get
  • Layouts as whimsical as they can get (like a cartoon)

I know in my own case as well as a recently-sold On30 basement filler nearby, visitors often say, upon seeing attempts to model in On30 that aren’t whimsical with shorty cars. The On30 Annual has done an amazing job of promoting the more ‘serious hobbyist’ nature of On30, but I think it’s fair to say that in many cases, people get into On30 to escape the bounds of reality and want to do whatever they want.

Bachmann is clearly the primary vendor for the hobby. They’ve come out with new stuff every now and then (their latest was the Army Baldwin class ten 2-6-2 from WW1) but I think the market has sort of peaked for them. Some of their previous best sellers, they don’t even currently make. I’ve asked Bachmann reps at shows, but they are evasive on the actual answers as to why.

With On30 or anything NG, you need to be able to make your own stuff to a degree. Yeah, you have structures and landscaping stuff suitable for O scale for those who make 2-rail standard gauge, 3-rail and the like, but a great deal of On30 stuff is scratch-built or made from laser kits. Lots of On30 structures, I’ve seen, are made of real wood. As On30 really started out as a ‘do it yourself’ portion t the hobby, you’ll find the older guys into On30 resent the RTR ‘out of the box’ nature that Bachmann brought to the table.

Some people get into On30 thinking it’s just Ho scale with different sized figures. Not so. You have to consider the orders of magnitude for structures and any detail components, as it’s twice the size of HO. Those spaces get filled FAST. I’ve noticed that generally, structures in any scale take up the same room. In other words, if you model N scale, you’re apt to make a station a certain size in real life. If you go to HO, it’s the same overall real world size but in scale, the depot is now smaller. In On30, it takes up the same room your N scale depot did, but for your O scale figures, it’s now really small.

I hope some of this rambling response helps…


Reply 0
Ed Wills
Hi P51.
Excellent advice.  Originally I was going to model 'O'gauge (British), but prices for rolling stock and  locos became more than my pocket money could support (even with sometimes reasonable exchange rates).  I was able to sell the small amount that I had and break even. I then saw an article in a British model railway magazine describing a Brit. based potato farm layout using U.S. HO scale diesel mechanisms on scratch built bodies with Bachmann On30 diesels and wagons.  Totally fictional,  the constructor combined it with 1:32 scale figures  from the Britains model farm range, some highly detailed 1:32 model farm tractors from his collection, along with some 1:32 scale farm buildings.  You can see this layout by searching RMWeb (U.K) and entering Two Sister's Farm by 'Broadoak'.  Although the U.K. had a few narrow gauge potato  railways with equipment from W.W.1 to serve the farms, in later years (post 1950?) they became tourist attractions and mainly carried passengers.. Two Sister's Farm uses Peco 00/HO track with roughly 1/3 of the ties removed and re-spaced.  Peco Set-Track turnouts were used.  Some of the mechanisms were from Athearn switchers.  

Another type of layout I looked at was the 3 foot gauge Sugar Cane Train on Maui.  This type of layout could use any steam locos/diesels  and rolling stock available to make a viable narrow gauge display.  It may not be in operation since 2018/19 according to its website.

I used to visit some of the locations of the Kaslo and Slocan Railway when living in Nelson B.C.,  Canada. There is a small outdoor museum in Sandon with more modern rolling stock on display.  Most of the narrow gauge equipment of the K & S was imported from the U.S., and would meet up with the lake ferries  on the Kootenay Lake run by Canadian Pacific. The K & S was originally narrow gauge, used during the silver boom in the 1800s, then became a passenger service, and later converted to standard gauge before being scrapped with all the track ripped up.  The small museum beside the dry docked Moyie ferry display  in Kaslo has (or had) a static layout beautifully constructed by a local modeller displaying scratch built  K & S stock.  I intend to follow the spirit of Two Sister's  Farm using all of the Britains farm buildings, animals and figures (plus some excellent new 1:32 figures from Preiser, Germany) from my  now  grown daughter's original collection, to populate a narrow gauge layout to be shared with my young granddaughter, and based in Canada.  Accucraft chassis  are great for open passenger cars with scratch built bodies.  A company in the U.K. manufactures mining power cars for 1:32 /1:24 scale that take Tenshodo  electric power trucks.  The farm residences I will be constructing are from a U.S. manufacturer - BMC  - in 1:32 scale, with windows from San Juan in Colorado.  Fleischmann of Germany used to manufacture European On30 rolling stock including short wheelbase tram cars, but this line seems hard to come by these days even on ebay.  A YouTube video by a German modeller has put these models to good use with a lumber mill operation and passenger trains.  Cheers,  EW
Reply 1
Prof_Klyzlr
Re "where's the Search Function?"
Click on the "Hamburger Menu",
The 3-horizontal-bars icon at Top Left,
To the LEFT of the MRH Shield logo...
Reply 0
Neil Erickson NeilEr

Bill - Jump in! The water is fine. 

My Shays are great runners and have been converted to battery power with radio control, DCC, and sound. There are some horror stories out these so good luck. 

Is the Olympia layout one published recently? If it interests you then get started. You will learn by trying and failing. Success is followed by new experiences so keep at it. Don’t be afraid to use the chainsaw on the first layout! In fact, why not build a little 6’ long layout, maybe 18” deep, to find what you like about the hobby. Sugar cane trains would be cool. Check out “Miniatures by Eric” for nice Greg cane cars cast of pewter. They go together well and look great. All the railroads on Kauai were 30” gauge, btw. 

Have fun and come back if you have more questions. 

Neil Erickson, Hawai’i 

My Blogs

Reply 0
Tom Ward
Bill - Your question about jerky motion is relevant.  I’ve found many of Bachmann’s locos being sold used on eBay have gearing problems that will give that jerky movement.  NWSL makes quality replacement gears to cure this.  For improved slow motion control go into the CVs for the decoder and you can get excellent slow control.  I model On30 mining with Shays and outside frame 2-8-0s using battery power, RF control and sound.  My shelf style layout is in a small room, 11’ x 12’, and has 18” + 21” radius curves with no problems.  I found hand laid track to be a serious money saver over flex track and offers more solutions (curved turnouts and Ys) for tight areas.  There are some beautiful 1:48 scale building kits available but building from scratch will help with fitting those larger structures into small spaces.  A comment was made about narrow gage not being able to have interchange but the prototypes did it all the time and modeling that can add interesting features like multi-gage track, load transfers and car dumps.  On30 does not have to be cartoony and it does encourage creativity.  The scale is large enough to have good detail but still be affordable.  On eBay I bought each of my locos for under $200 and I refuse to pay more than $35 with shipping for cars.  There are still good deals out there for On30 cars and locos.  Just be vigilant and selective.
- Tom
“When I die I want to go quietly in my sleep like my grandfather. Not screaming in terror like his passengers."
Reply 1
Ed Wills
Hi All.

May I prevail upon North American based On30 modellers for advice on your preferred DC analog controller(s) suitable for On30 please?   I am using HO (Athearn) mechanisms under  On30 bodies  running on Peco O-16.5 track,  as well as 3 Tenshodo motor trucks (bogies in the U.K.) with reduced size G scale mining car bodies on top.   I realize that DCC is becoming the preferred method of control, but with prices the way they are, and my layout being  fairly uncomplicated, analog will work just fine.  DC analog still seems popular with some modellers in both the U.K. and North America, so suggestions on what you are using will be much appreciated.  Cheers Ed.
Reply 1
krhodes1
Ed Wills wrote:
Hi All.

May I prevail upon North American based On30 modellers for advice on your preferred DC analog controller(s) suitable for On30 please?   I am using HO (Athearn) mechanisms under  On30 bodies  running on Peco O-16.5 track,  as well as 3 Tenshodo motor trucks (bogies in the U.K.) with reduced size G scale mining car bodies on top.   I realize that DCC is becoming the preferred method of control, but with prices the way they are, and my layout being  fairly uncomplicated, analog will work just fine.  DC analog still seems popular with some modellers in both the U.K. and North America, so suggestions on what you are using will be much appreciated.  Cheers Ed.


The various MRC DC controllers still seem to be pretty standard. I have an MRC with switchable momentum that works beautifully - it has to be 40 years old at this point. I bought it paper-route money in Jr High School. It's so old it is actually Tyco branded! Also have a newer plastic version of the same that works fine. I can't recall what the old one is, but the newer one is a Tech II 1500. Lots of used ones on eBay for cheap.  

I mostly use DCC, but still have some analog locomotives. And I like to break in analog on the test circle before I put decoders in them.

Kevin Rhodes
Reply 1
Prof_Klyzlr
Hi Ed,

Most of the GaugeMaster units will work fine with your stated range of On30 conversions. I personally use and rely-on my GaugeMaster "HH" tethered walkarounds. Given how well-built and overload-protected GaugeMaster throttles are, buying 2nd hand via ebay.co.uk is a reasonably safe option IMHE.
(They get sold due to "no longer needed, converted to DCC" more often than "due to damage").

If you're not afraid of a soldering iron, homebuilt throttles based on LM317 Volt Regulators are known to work OK,
and have been well documented on RMWeb.co.uk and a number of other UK-based NG and Small/Micro layout sites.

There are also options based on single 2N3055 transistors, with half of the AC power input injected at low throttle settings to provide a nice slow crawlability which plays-nice with precision motors like Faulhaber. Sounds complex, but only requires approx 5 components at it's core, plus a reversing switch... ;-)
(Let me know if you need a circuit diagram or further info).

One of the better online resources was Rob Paisley's "Model RR and Misc Electronics", which included a category for "DC (Analog) throttles".
http://www.circuitous.ca/CircuitIndex.html#Throttles

Hopefully between the above options, you should be able to find something which works for your layout requirements... :-)

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr
Reply 1
MannsCreekRR
If your goal is to do narrow gauge logging I would consider looking at either Sn3 and use PBL stuff, or On3 and buy a couple good brass locomotives from a reputable builder.  NOW WAIT...let me tell you why before you all hang me.  First, if you are doing logging you are going to be most likely doing geared locomotives (Shays, Climax, Heislers), and of the geared stuff Bachmann did for most people two on that list had issues, and they are not as easy to find.  Second, all the stuff in On30 is really small stuff in real life, which could be fine but personally I like the shays that were a little bigger.  Third, you really don't need a ton of locomotives and there are some people out there that could set you up with a couple brass engines that will just be an absolute joy to run.   I know a brass shay these days that runs well in On3 can reach and exceed 1K, but with the right builder they are worth it.  I have a PSC 60 ton shay in On3 and it can easily do a 30" radius.

One other reason that is seldom talked about is how poor Bachmann stuff runs going down grade, they buck like mules.  Brass locomotives have a different drive in them and they can handle going down steep grades.  I run 5% grades on my On3 layout and the two regauged Bachmann locomotives won't do grades like that without bucking to death, the brass stuff is a smooth as can be.

I feel Bachmann kind of jumped ship on the On30 people, especially the geared community.  Even if you can buy freight cars and track if you can't get good running engines (and keep them running) you pretty much have a diorama.  I love being on On3, yes it is hard and expensive to get locomotives, but I got a few great ones...and that's all I need.

Jeff Kraker

Read My Blog

Reply 1
AlexW
Ed Wills wrote:
Hi All.

May I prevail upon North American based On30 modellers for advice on your preferred DC analog controller(s) suitable for On30 please?   I am using HO (Athearn) mechanisms under  On30 bodies  running on Peco O-16.5 track,  as well as 3 Tenshodo motor trucks (bogies in the U.K.) with reduced size G scale mining car bodies on top.   I realize that DCC is becoming the preferred method of control, but with prices the way they are, and my layout being  fairly uncomplicated, analog will work just fine.  DC analog still seems popular with some modellers in both the U.K. and North America, so suggestions on what you are using will be much appreciated.  Cheers Ed.


For the test track, nothing beats an MRC Tech II. Back when MRC was good. They botched the move to DCC, and their stuff is terrible now.

For your layout, there are low cost DCC alternative systems like DCC++EX or SPROG, as well as reasonably priced traditional systems like the Digitrax Zephyr DCS52 and Digikeijs DR5000.

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Modeling the modern era freelanced G&W Connecticut Northern

Reply 1
Prof_Klyzlr
Quote:
For the test track, nothing beats an MRC Tech II
...except that they are hardwired 110-120VAC Mains devices for the US market,
are Not Available in "multi voltage", "switchmode", or even "manual voltage selection" formats,
and will die the moment they are plugged into 220-240VAC UK Mains as per Ed's request and suspected location...

Prof K
Reply 1
AlexW
Prof_Klyzlr wrote:
...except that they are hardwired 110-120VAC Mains devices for the US market,
are Not Available in "multi voltage", "switchmode", or even "manual voltage selection" formats,
and will die the moment they are plugged into 220-240VAC UK Mains as per Ed's request and suspected location...

Prof K


Interesting, I would have thought that they would have made a UK version. Go figure. They are transformer-based devices, so they wouldn't be able to automatically adapt to voltage changes like switching power supplies.

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Modeling the modern era freelanced G&W Connecticut Northern

Reply 1
Ed Wills
Hi All.  Many thanks for the information.  Just for clarification, I live in Canada, so my initial reference and plea to North American On30 modellers was because of my location.  As seems to be normal these days, many appliances come with plug-in AC to DC power supplies.  Due to wear and tear, the actual appliance(s) require replacement long before the power supplies burn out, and I seem to have collected lots of 110 - 120 volts  AC to DC power supplies.  Mostly in the 12 volts DC range, but some 9 volts DC up to 16 volts AC.  It appears that the U.K. has more types of analog controllers available, but many are hard-wired for the U.K. 220-240 volts AC at 50 hertz with the U.K. square pin plug permanently attached.  The Tenshodo motororized trucks I have are the 'newer' coreless motors, and according to some U.K. forums and one U.K. controller manufacturer,  quote: 'these do not take kindly to controllers with any kind of feedback or PWM' (i.e. for the unblessed like myself - pulse-width modulation.  Had to 'google' that one,  and the explanation left my head spinning!).

I have to check whether any of the Gaugemaster,  Morley,  Helmsman or other U.K. types will allow a North American specification power supply to be plugged in to allow operation of our layout.  The layout  (20 foot long by 2 x 9 foot  return loops) is a fun project for our grandchild and I to operate a potato production farm based in my province (there appears to be quite a few of these I found out - not just in beautiful Idaho).  The scale is 1:32 following an excellent idea from a gent in the U.K. (Two Sister's Farm featured in a U.K. model railway magazine).  I have modified (reduced in size)  1:24 scale molded bodies to fit the mechanisms as well as adapting  U.K. type O-16.5 diesel switcher bodies to allow 1:32 figures (Preiser and Britains) to sit in them.  While DCC is definitely preferable, neither time nor money really justifies the use on this particular layout which is predominantly about the farm and the equipment (plus animals) on the farm.  All very unrealistic perhaps, but we do have such a farm,  with garden centre and full size regular gauge preserved railway in our province that does very good business during the warmer months.

Thanks again all.  EW
Reply 1
Prof_Klyzlr
Dear Ed, Alex,

My bad, I must admit I'd assumed you were based in the UK given the "O-16.5" and "Bogies" terminology usage.
(Relatively rare here on a high-percentage US-based User demographic... ;-)   😉.

GaugeMaster do both "BYO plugpack PSU" and "embedded PSU with integrated permanent Mains power cable" units. 

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/model-railways/gaugemaster/gaugemaster-controls-brand5.html?limit=20&scale=443%2C2004&type=1970

The "HH", "Combi", and "Panel Mount" units will take a 16VAC plugpack PSU source, so a BYO Plugpack PSU,
something like this unit from Amazon, will give you a 1Amp solution
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Linear-Transformer-1000mA-Straight/dp/B00B8865BG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=16+volt+ac&qid=1668727394&sr=8-4

That said, as you're in Canada, the "Wrong Mains Power Voltage" issue goes away,
and the US-manuf'd Model rectifier Corp controllers are very-much the logical "go to" option...

Again, my apologies for the confusion...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

PS FWIW I would reccomend signing-off with "Ed W" or similar, as there is already a long-time member and frequent contributor here onlist who uses the handle "EW", and I forsee some degree of "whoops, wrong person" confusion being likely?? ... ;-)
Reply 1
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