Pat M

Pending the sale of our old house, I am getting close to starting benchwork construction. First, new electrical in basement needs finished, then new lighting. I’ve made some more changes to my track plan and now have two different plans to go with depending on the benchwork height considerations.

I have been experimenting with heights for several days now with a temporary set up in the basement. I may have settled on something that might work. The bottom level would have the main classification yard and staging, with the middle and upper levels having the rest of the mainline run. In the attached pictures, the heights are set at 28”, 45” and 62”, with about 14” between levels using 1x4 framework.

If I use 1x3 lumber, I can buy a couple inches and drop the top deck down 1-2 inches as well as adding to the space between levels. I stand 5’-11” and 62” at the top (30” deep) is quite comfortable if most of the track work is kept within 24” from the face. I may still make more adjustments, but I think I’m really close to settling on the standard benchwork heights (variations of elevation around the layout, of course).

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laming

Tri-Level

I had a tri-level layout inside a modified 24' RV trailer. (The idea of using the RV worked pretty good. Completely self contained and easily moved, and it did get moved once during its life.)

My idea of a tri-level: Not so much.  The heights of my levels varied from about what you're proposing. With an office chair as you're using, the middle level WILL interfere with your ability to view the lower level. (And my benchwork was only 18" at its deepest.) I ended up going with mechanic "scooters" to operate the lower level, placing them at the two lower towns.

My upper level had 60+ inch areas. Even with me being at 6' 1" and a long reach, I still ended up using movable "kitchen step-ups" to assist in use. All visiting operators had to use them the step-ups.

A tri-level will mean less useless time spent by trains in a heiix, but you'll have two of them to build. (Mine were stacked.)

Also, my experience indicated that for me a tri-level would visually be better for flat land modeling better than mountains. (Mine layout theme was the Ozarks.) However, one might be able to lean heavily on the backdrop to give the impression of vista with some distant mountains or something.

Even with its drawbacks (and there were many), I ended up having that tri-level layout longer than any to date (11 years or so). By the end of it, I swore I'd never again do a tri-level, and never again do a helix. I've held true to that with my current final "medium" sized layout.

Suggest MUCH thorough experimentation as to shelf depth, seating, visibility, lighting, wiring, and access before you commit to a tri-level concept. Once you're underway and should you discover it's not for you, that will be an expensive mistake.

Best of luck!

Andre

Kansas City & Gulf: Ozark Subdivision, Autumn of 1964
 
The "Mainline To The Gulf!"
Reply 0
Russ Bellinis

I'm looking at pic of you standing, reaching 3rd level.

Your bicep is cutting off 4 inches of the shelf.  I don't think you could reach more than 6 inches without a step stool.  Any scenery in the front part of the shelf is in danger of being damaged.  If you have others operating with you, carrying a step stool around to reach 3rd level may be problematic.  I'm not sure of room size, but it looks like your are "biting off more than you can chew."

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railbaronmike

Shelf heights

I agree with Russ, how you are checking reach and vision with only one set of supports isn't a true indication of actual practice. My suggestion would be to build another set of supports about 4 to 6 feet away. Then add shelves to each level, and maybe fascia mockups. Only then will you get a real feel for reach length on the top and mid levels, and a real sense of how much you can actually see on the bottom shelf. Mike in Florida
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joef

Deck level ergonomics

When it comes to deck levels, here are some important ergonomic considerations. 1. The upper deck (if there's any switching on it) needs to be no higher than bottom of your armpits. Otherwise, you will need a step stool to access for switching 2. To see into a lower deck for switching (so you can see all the way to the bottom of the backdrop -- you don't need to see the backdrop itself), make the bottom of the valance (deck above) no lower than the end of your nose. In this case, you're using a seated position to make that measurement for the lowest deck and using a standing position to make that measurement for the upper and middle deck. As it stands, your upper deck is too high for switching and too low to allow seeing into the middle deck properly without stooping. The middle and lower decks are about right if you work the lower deck by being seated. But the lower deck is too low to see for train running without major stooping, which means you will need to add aisle width to allow bending over to see the lowest deck comfortably for train running -- unless you intend to follow any trains on the lower deck around by rolling the chair along. In that case, you will need more aisle width to allow anyone else to easily get around someone seated.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Reply 0
Pennwest

One other thing

Something else to consider: if your operators will be switching the lower level using rolling chairs or stools then the aisle will need to be extra wide (like at least 4 feet) in those areas so that other operators can get by.  Otherwise the sitting operators will be continually jostled by others squeezing by and/or will need to roll out of the way to let people pass, interrupting their work.  Yes, I have been the seated operator at quite a few operating sessions.

Bob Bartizek

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Ron Ventura Notace

Operation and sight lines is

Operation and sight lines is one thing (OK, two things) but what about how easy it is to work on each level. It looks to me like that top level would be bear to work on. And I’d advise building the lower levels first, so you don’t have to reach in between levels to lay track, build scenery etc. lots of potential for cracked skulls and the associated bad language.

Ron Ventura

Melbourne, Australia

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GNNPNUT

Don't see any problems with your deck heights

My deck heights are at 25", 45", and 65".  No problem on my railroad with getting takers for the yard jobs.  Plenty of options to choose from for the yard operators in terms of stools / platforms.    One thing that I do have going for me is 8' ceilings in this part of the basement. 

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On the other side of the scenery divider, the lower level, when switched, is worked using a mechanics stool.  In the photo below, there were three trains meeting here, and there was ample room, and no problem viewing for the three people operating the three trains.  As Bob pointed out, I would have liked to have four feet on this side of the layout, but the space available did not allow for that.  It hasn't been much of an issue, it isn't like there is a lot of traffic when the person is working the lower level.  The aisle width is 3'.

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Regards,

GNNPNUT

 

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Pat M

More Work

Thanks everybody for your input. I’m going to make some supports with 1x3 lumber and do some more testing before committing to these heights. I would like for top level to not exceed 60” and for space between levels not to be any less than 14”.

There are two plans in progress, one puts staging and the main classification yard on the lowest level, then goes directly up a helix to the second level with significant mainline running. This also gives my kids two levels they can view without assistance. The other plan, and probably the more logical plan, puts staging alone on the bottom level under only a portion of the RR, then uses a helix up to the classification yard on the second level. That would allow the second and third levels to drop around 4 inches for better access without stools or benches, but a bit less mainline running.

We are in a rural area that tends to have a sparse model railroader population. Regular operating sessions won’t be a realistic achievement for me. Maybe a special event or open house coinciding with Pittsburgh area conventions and jamborees for those traveling up from the south. So while I do want to be operator-friendly, I may as well build for my comfort (and the family) than for the average hobbyist.

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GNNPNUT

You have obviously put a lot of thought into this already.....

Just a couple of observations. 

  • I went and looked at your track plan on your blog.  For the most part, you have nice wide aisles to allow for the use of a mechanics stool when working the lower level, where you seem to be leaning towards putting your yard and staging.
  • I would limit your benchwork width on that lowest level to 24", or if you really want to stretch it, 30".  1/3 of my lower deck is 16" or less, and just will concentrate on scenic elements in these areas.  In the other areas where there will be industries (a limestone pit, and on the other side of the wall, a lumber mill), I have limited the depth to 24 to 26", and most of the track to be switched is within 16" of the edge. 

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This view has a good overall view showing my viaduct.  This photo is three years old, and the bridge now has a piece of plexiglass in front of it to protect it, and shows up in the earlier photo. The scenic backdrop is 16" from the edge at this point.   There is not much painted on the backdrop, as I am modeling eastern to southeastern Washington state.  It isn't exactly a scenic wonderland in this area except immediately south of Spokane. 

On the older section of my railroad, the benchwork height is 52".  I designed and built it before I had children.  That didn't stop the kids from enjoying the railroad, and they spent a lot of time on two step step stools.  My mill gons hauled a lot of revenue traffic consisting of dinosaurs.  My son fought many a battle with his 1/87 miniature German and American army miniatures.  I think my yard at Worley doubled as an acceptable stand-in for Stalingrad for a few afternoons.  He was always careful around my equipment too. 

I'm enjoying you starting your journey on this layout.  Brings back a lot of memories from 20 plus years ago.  BTW, my daughters painted the backdrop on the upper level about 7 years ago. 

Regards,

Jerry

 

 

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gary willoughby

shelf height

My experience with working on a dual level layout ( construction) has convinced me to never have one myself. If you really want that long main line climbing on three levels, I understand. Just remember that simply reaching into that space is not the same as working on track, scenery, turnouts, etc. You'll be sticking your head and upper body in there. A lot. A hardhat will be a good thing to have around.
Reply 0
gary

a broken arm

I have always viewed the idea of building a layout so high that to use it you have to carry a step stool or ladder around to see it a bit like being in incredible pain from having a broken leg, but then just taking painkillers to take the pain away but not doing anything about the broken bones but just hobbling around on crutches so that you don't have to use your leg. it just seems like defeating the point of the objective. Just get the broken bone fixed and then the pain will be gone AND you will be able to use the leg. 

A layout built so high that you can't use it is like the broken leg, and carrying a stool around to stand on is taking the pain killer to solve the problem.Just build the layout (fix the broken leg) at a level that you can use it surely. 

Reply 0
rickam1

perhaps this is an irrational thought but maybe you could do it.

I have not see it done this way so there may be good reasons to reject this right off the bat but I'll mention it anyway. Could the rear of the upper shelf be raised while the front is a bit lower - of course you could still keep the track level - except where super elevation is needed on curves and such. There is room later to install LED strip lighting near the front with less problems reaching and seeing the top shelf. I think all three layers could have the same pitch from back to front and therefore look more esthetically pleasing to the eye.  it may however cause difficulty on the bottom shelf trying to cram your neck to look under the lip of the mid layer. 

Enjoying the hobby!

Rick Melcher

Warminster Pa.

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Neil Erickson NeilEr

Hinged upper deck

Rick:

Thats a really good idea. I’ve seen a short clip somewhere that demonstrated a hinged upper deck that provided access to an equipment panel behind the layout.

There is a spot on my layout where the rear wall is 3’-3 1/2’nfrom the front of the layout. I wanted a deep scene to represent the town “up the hill” from the tracks (and am contemplating smaller scale structures further back) but working on this area seems like a head banger. There will be 20” rail to rail but that isn’t really much space in 1/4” scale. 

The idea of a hinged portion has gotten me thinking ...

Neil Erickson, Hawai’i 

My Blogs

Reply 0
Pat M

State of Flux

Thanks everybody for their input. My wife wants some space in the basement for her crafting area. Originally we settled on a 7’ wide space in the corner of the basement, but I drew up a new track plans that might accomplish multiple goals:

  • 8’x9’ crafting room with 4 walls.
  • Two deck layout with “Nolix” design
  • extended mainline run
  • staging does block water heater access

The design is still in a fluid state right now due to multiple factors, but I think we’re closer than we were before. Projected deck heights of 36” and 58”. After 40+ track plans drawn in the past 6 months, I’m getting tired of planning and would like to build soon, lol.

I haven’t cleared the larger craft room with new walls with the wifey, and the HVAC in our house is older and “unbalanced” due to a large addition added by previous owner. The HVAC needs whatever it needs before building a layout. We’ll know more in a few weeks.

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