Some history

Given that our Club rooms are very small, we have to store our layout for long periods each year.   Our previous layout used a series of wooden frames that contained up to 3 of the old modules.  These frames were all different sizes, heavy, awkward to move and could only be used to store or transport the layout.    When we set up the layout we then add to add two sets of wooden legs to each module.  The 32 sets of legs also had to be stored separately.  Each set of legs could only fit one end of a given module so set up was like solving a jig saw puzzle.   After 20 years of use the frames were also starting to show their age and were badly due for replacement.

A new Design

When designing our new layout, one of the key factors was to come up with a Frame design that would meet the following criteria:

• Standard size
• Light
• Strong
• Durable
• Easy to carry and maneuver
• Enable the entire layout to be stored in our club rooms.

Quite by chance I happened to be purchasing some aluminium extrusion from a local supplier and noticed a display of their modular furniture.I had seen this stuff before but with the frame discussion fresh in my head it was one of those light bulb moments.

The company involved is called Ullrich Aluminium and they serve both New Zealand and Australia.Not surprisingly the same style of system is available in most parts of the world.

In the UK it can be found here: https://www.richardsonsuk.co.uk/25mm-square-tube-system/p47

And in the USA it can be found here:

https://eztube.com/  

I believe there are several other companies throughout the States that sell this stuff.

The system is elegant in it’s simplicity.Square section tube at either ¾” or 1” can be cut to any length required.The tube is then connected together with a range of Plastic mouldings (see picture below) that are an interference fit in the aluminium tube.The system can also utilize a square section tube with a short flange on one side.That flange can be used to support 12mm Plywood inserts.

Our Frames

In our case the size of the frames was set by the size of the modules.Given that the width of our modules had been decided at 800mm (31.5”) the frames could be no taller than 600mm (24”) and would have to be turned on their side to fit through some of our doors.Our module lengths were either 1500mm (10 modules) and 1200mm (6 modules). As our club discussed this option, we realized that the frames could also be used as the legs when the layout was set up.Given our preferred layout height of 1000mm (39”), by sitting two frames on top of each other they could be sized to meet the desired layout height.By using modules as bridges between each frame the sixteen frames required for storage and transport would also almost meet all of our support leg requirement.The shortfall was covered with two screw in legs made from PVC electrical conduit.

For height adjustment we utilised screw in feet and to align the pairs of frames on top of one another we fitted two pairs of table pins.Gluing 8” long timber blocks inside the tubes provide sufficient meet to house both the feet and the pins.For the feet, 6mm (¼”) T nuts were fitted to the timber blocks before they were inserted into the frames.The blocks were glued in place with polyurethane glue (Gorilla glue).

To support the modules inside the frames we added a T section extrusion that was simply riveted to the square section tube.Modules are secured in the frames by drilling holes in the vertical web of the T section and using 5mm bolts that screw into T nuts fitted in the modules.

12mm (½ ”) ply was inserted into the top and back of each frame.The inserts added a huge amount of rigidity and strength at the cost of a small amount of additional weight.The inserts sere secured in place by drilling holes through the flange on each tube and then screwing the ply into place.On tubes that needed two flanges we simply riveted ½” angle into place.

Handles were made from 3” x 1” timber and screwed into place in the ends of each frame.These again added a huge amount of rigidity.

Layout Set Up

The photo below shows the "bridging" concept I mentioned in an earlier post.  The bridging module overlaps the adjacent frames by just over an 1".  This is really only feasible by using the Norse latches to hold the modules together.

Storage

This photo shows how the layout is stored.

Qubelok by another brand?

Dear Peter,

Thanks for the international references, this appears to be another example of Aussie Capral "Qubelok"

https://www.capral.com.au/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Qubelok_brochure_web.pdf

and Metal-mate "Connect It".

https://www.metalmate.com.au/connect-it

The modules look great!

Happy modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Cutting Aluminium

Having owned an Aluminium Joinery business, I am aware that the thought of using this material could be a bit intimidating to some.

In actuality it is a very easy material to work with provided a few basic precautions are adhered to. First and foremost, at least one side of any cut should be securely clamped.   Commercial saws use pneumatic clamps on both sides of a cut but for small material like this one side is sufficient. Any style of clamp that holds the material securely to a fence will do the job.

Do not hold the material by hand as the slightest movement during the cut will rip it out of your hand and fling a missile across your workshop.

A light waft of WD40 on the cut area is better than cutting dry.

While it can be cut with a hacksaw, a far better option is to use a compound mitre saw fitted with a Tungsten Carbide tipped blade.  These saws are now so cheap and so versatile they should be in every workshop.   Blades designed for cutting aluminium (80 or 100 teeth) are also relatively cheap and available in every big box hardware store.  These blades can also be used to cross cut timber and will leave an exceptionally fine finish when sharp. However, any TC tipped blade will do the job but the finish won't be as good and clamping is even more important.

Aluminium is a very"gummy" material when being cut and will rapidly clog any cutting implement.  Keep your saw blades clean. use WD40 as a cutting lubricant and rub ordinary school room style chalk over a file.  When drilling use a "peck" technique (drill a short distance and retract a few mm to break the chip) and clear the drill frequently.

Two of the cheapest and best tools I have found for removing burrs on edges and around drilled holes can be found in the links below:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32709666936.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d9fBqKE

and

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32927766032.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d9fBqKE