Chain link in the dustbin
Dear Jason (and readers-)
I apologize, for after completing this comment I see that it is quite long. I have been building this sort of fence for a lot of years. (but not continuously)
I have made several attempts at making chain link fences and have had a whole range of different results.
First, it is difficult to join the parts in any of the prototype methods I have seen. One way the columns fit the stringers ( the horizontal bars, but I am not sure this term is used in the fence industry) with flat metal clips with a hole at each end: These are formed into sort of a horseshoe shape about 8-10 inches long (aprox 250mm) to fit around columns and bolt through flat end caps on the horizontal stringrers.
Another way the bars (actually galvanized tubes) fit together is with pipe joints that look like plumbing parts. I don't recall if some or all of these actually screw together, but they have flanges and are cast metal parts that accept the pipes into openings for the columns and stringers. There are probably other methods, but in any case, it is possible, on the model, to notch the columns and bevel the ends of the stringers so they all fit together.
In general, once you try to add mesh material, I have found that the styrene strip is not nearly strong enough to hold it unless you avoid pulling or trying to stretch the mesh- and find something other than a solvent cement to hold it.
I just noticed the next reply about Tulle, and I agree, this is a great material for this purpose. I think it scales out to close to O scale, but looks very acceptable in HO scale due to the thin section of the nylon "threads".
Tulle may well have another name where you are located- (Two nations divided by a common language,-and all that) It is used for bridal veils (the wedding dress kind, not for horses) and is usually found at craft or fabric shops.
I have gone so far as to try using armature wire from discarded motors to try to make tiny loops to simulate the prototype clips for holding the Tulle, and possibly someone with more patience than I could make that work. I couldn't. The idea was to use soldered brass wire for the fence, and that part works fine. I notched the columns and while not entirely prototypical, was an easy way to fit the parts together.
A friend found an interesting way to use Tulle with styrene fence supports.-He would stretch a section of Tulle on a frame just enough to get it flat. Could be a cardboard sheet with an opening at the center, or an old wooden picture frame, or canvas stretchers from an artist supply store. Staple the corners and add whatever additional staples are needed to get the Tulle stretched out nicely. Then spray it with clear lacquer. An easy way to get this is as hair spray. I always got the strongest holding variant I could find. No need to soak this, for it won't soak in- Tulle is Nylon and nothing short of a hydrogen bomb is likely to scratch it very much. But the lacquer coats it nicely. A few light coats is better than a heavy one. Once dry, this can be glued to styrene.
The situation I found was that when finished, it looked fine. Then after 24-48 hours, the fence would be wound up into a 180 degree arc as the glue soaked styrene shrank.
I finally had the most success using square section styrene (which I know is not prototypical) and trapping the Tulle between two square sections. Flat sections, again did not have enough strength to avoid the warping problem. I used as little solvent cement as possible and have made up some acceptable fences in that way. Half round styrene has not proved strong enough when I tried it, but maybe someone else could make it work. This is not the prototypical method of joining parts, but I think would simulate the fence very well.
Something else that might work would be either Contact Cement (rubber based adhesive for mounting Melamine sheet to counter tops in the building trades) This is gooey and difficult to work with but can be tamed by using small puddle on aluminum or wood sheet applied with toothpick- coat both sides, let dry 5-10 minutes and fit together for contact adhesion. This should cure the warping problem. We have Dap-Weldwood brand here in the States and unfortunately, Google wouldn't tell me if you can get the same brand in Australia.
The easiest way to use this is in tubes (hard to find) Years back, the tube would fit a Testors fine tip nozzle. (available on a card with several of them) They changed the tube nozzle sizes but it might be possible to adapt it - this lets a fine bead of cement come through and is the perfect way to apply this. Walthers Goo may be easier to find. This works in a similar way but has a lot of filler in it and often dries out or cracks after many years. The main thing is to keep the styrene from contracting by avoiding the use of solvent cements. Contact cement has solvents in it, but does not melt the plastic together to make the chemical bond.
Recently, I have tried the nice stainless steel mesh from BLMA. I built one section as they recommended. Then pulled it apart and rebuilt it- I got some half round styrene rod and trapped the stainless mesh between the two of the half round sections. The joints at the columns are made by cutting either a notch or a "Vee" so the styrene parts fit together. I do not try to simulate the cast fittings. I used super glue on mine.
This makes a good looking fence but is not as fine as Tulle, although it has a smaller mesh size, possibly even being exact HO. To make it strong enough to handle, the simulated wire mesh is too wide with openings that are undersized. Instead of drawing attention to this problem by painting the fence silver, add a few drops of black into silver paint to give a more weathered look- this will nicely disguise the fact that it is kind of heavy looking. Many fences get painted, especially the older ones, and I have found that painting fences black helps their appearance in some locations, for it blends into the scenery more and it is not so easy to tell if the mesh is the correct size.
Possibly, the best way to use this fence is by just leaving it as it comes Put a lot of ground cover so people will notice your miniature raspberries or Kiwis or whatever is in the garden and will not notice that the fence is plain flat mesh.
Stainless is very difficult to cut and I would prefer to use brass if it were available. That could be soldered and be blackened or weathered with chemicals.
Finally, the problem I have with the etched fence is that it is very expensive.
Wherever possible, I use either simulated corrugated iron fence-) wooden frames with Campbell or other make of corrugated aluminum.) Or I use brick wall wherever possible, with as little of the mesh fence as I can to keep the cost down. But this has become such an important part of the worldwide industrial scene for the last century that you really need at least some on most any layout.
Others may have different experiences than I with the Tulle, but I have tried a lot of things and sometimes it is just getting everything just right to make it work.
Sorry to be so wordy, but I have tried this a lot of times and I am still not 100% satisfied. Best of luck.
Victor