Spell checker - Rerailer

Sorry about the repeated "retailers" in my prior post. I tried in vain to force the spell-checker to use "rerailer" but obviously it was more persistent than I was in getting its way.

- John

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Scratch built:   https://pmrr.org/Articles/indexTrackScratchbuilt_Rerailer.htm

Rix Rai-lit :  https://rixproducts.com/product/rix-rail-it-ho/

No affiliation, just googled

Marc

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see HO Scale details and accessories

For visible locations, scratchbuild?

Wouldn't the key element of any rerailer be the triangular approach section?  I would think you could probable create one from sheet styrene fairly quickly, even if it's a diamond shape rather than as long as the Atlas or Jiffy designs.  Just keep the height of the rerailer below the railhead.  Perhaps a couple pieces of .040 sheet glued together after cutting them out and then chamfering the top layer.

Janet N.

US7111560B1

Patent drawing?

Greg, is that a patent drawing for the jiffy rerailer?

Getting the flange over the rail

One of the things that gives the Atlas re-railer it’s “high visual footprint” is the part that’s outside the rails.  But I suspect that also gives it a big advantage over other re-railers that only have parts between the rails.  The Atlas design lifts the flange on the wheel that’s outside the rail up so it can just slide over and drop into place as the part between the rails guides the inside wheel back up and onto the other rail.  If there’s nothing outside the rails to help the outside wheel back up and over, I’d imagine it’s a bit of a tossup whether you endup re-railed, or bounced further out of line by the inside wheel hopping over the angle that’s supposed to pull it back to the other rail.

If you put guard rails across the gaps to be sure no trucks try to cross the gaps a bit skewed that may be the best insurance with low visual impact.

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Search found the gent who owned Jiffy-railer, Donald Frost,  passed away in 2014.

Marc

little tab

notice the little tabs identified as 4 in the drawing?   they keep the insert spaced away from the rail.

i believe they can be placed on curves.   something to consider if you make your own

sorry for no link. but i

sorry for no link. but i believe it was for a small O narrow gauge set up. but it was built into the scene. 

looked more like track settling into a mud flat. he used a couple strips of brass. and at the rail end the rail was full hight. at the lower end the rail had been ground down a bit off the bottom of the rail. and set a bit wider than correct gauge. with the center of track area angled slightly up. to help the rolling wheels get onto the rising rails.

at the lower end the wheels rolled on there flanges. track gauge too wide. area between was slopped higher in the middle. so just rolled the cars —up—slope onto the rails. and was powered to get motive power to do the same.

looked great. not like a rerailer at all.

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" Wouldn't the key element of any rerailer be the triangular approach section? "

I believe the center part is the heart of the whole rerail process. It is what pushes the open side of flange towards the rail. The closed flange side is lifted by the ramp on opposite side (Atlas variant) so it can slide over the rail and drop the flange where it belongs.

Jiffy Railer

Atlas Rerailer

The Jiffy-Railer  is clearly a slightly modified center portion of the Atlas Rerailer which further proves the center is the heart of the rerail process.

Marc

I see the advantages of the center section now....

Never let it be said that I can't bow gracefully to a more clearly explained reality.  :D

Janet N.

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Here is a pic of a 1:1 scale Aldon  half diamond Permanent rerailer.

Source Aldon  https://www.aldonco.com/store/c/65-Rerailers.aspx

Marc

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Here is a neat one from Proses :

Bachmann EZ-Railer : https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/images/HO_Scale/44492.jpg

Marc

If you cut off the outside edges of the Atlas rerailer

even with the end of the ties, you would have something that would function like the Aldon half diamond permanent rerailer.  If you cut it to the short length of the Aldon, it might disappear hiding in plain sight.

outside of building one, any

outside of building one, any commercial made ones for standard gauge in ho scale. but using code 83 rail?

all i can find is in code 100 rail.

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Atlas sells both a code 100 and code 83 rerailer in HO if that is what you are looking for.

Marc

will try and find it.was

will try and find it.

was thinking along the lines of this bulky item as a duel thing. blocking ( aka cut rails) and remote rerailer. working to make my track derail  resistant, but having something along these lines in hard to get at places would be good insurance.

Jiffy Rerailer

Some time ago Gerry Leone gave a demonstrated of how he fabricated a rerailer out of styrene.  It was episode 20 of the MR Video Plus series.  http://mrv.trains.com/series/off-the-rails/2017/12/off-the-rails-episode-20. This might do the trick.

An Aside...

IF the car is loaded... trying to lift it up over the hump of a McCarty or "Burlington" type rerailer CAN exceed the TE of a single four axle unit. I have had situations that I had to add another unit in order to get the loaded car up over the hump of the rerailer.

For those you that have never had to be responsible for running the engine that's rerailing an obstinate car: You get to find out just how good (or not) of a Hoghead you really are.

Rerailing your engine is another batch of skill sets, too.

Trust me: Our GHA method used in the modeling world is so much easier.

Andre

link

That link took me off the rails somehow, it seems to have some extra junk added on the end. When I stripped everything following the "20" from the link I got the video, but it only played up until 1:10 and then quit - it seems I need to subscribe to something to see the helpful part of the video.

prevention vs rerailer

sometimes a rerailer is useful to prevent derailments.   Tapering the inside of rails around turntables or removable sections can help.

but i wonder how effective a rerailer, such as the jiffy, is that doesn't lift and force the outside wheel back over the rail?

maybe an effective rerailer just needs something (glued) outside the rails.