BklynXPat

Don't know if this has been covered before, but here goes.....

I have 3 Spectrum GE 70-tonners (first generation, same drive gear as the 44's) with the infamous cracked gear problem. I noodled around with a few ideas and finally came up with something simple - heat shrink tubing. In the interest of full disclosure, none of the cracks on my 3 units have impacted the gear itself, just the shafts, so I can't categorically state that this will work for everyone in every situation. Still, I hope that it can at least serve as a method for stabilizing parts that haven't deteriorated too badly.

First off, here's the tubing I used:

ubing(4).jpg 

The gear shafts are 3mm in diameter, and these tubes shrink down to 2.4mm, so we're assured of a tight fit. You'll need to cut two different length pieces per gear to match the lengths of the shafts.

I didn't want to chance melting the part itself, so I used a combination of steam and boiling water from a tea kettle to do the shrinking. Basically, place the tubing on the shaft, hold the part upright with a pair of self-closing tweezers, and place it in the steam coming out of the kettle. This does the initial shrink. Now repeat it with the other shaft. Once that's done, place the whole thing in a container (like an old margarine tub) and cover it with boiling water for about 5 minutes. The tubing should now be fully shrunk/set.

Here's a pic of the gear that is driven via the drive train:

Axle1(1).jpg 

The clearances were adequate, and no modifications to the chassis itself were necessary.

And here's the gear that's driven (via an intermediate gear) directly by the motor:

Axle2(1).jpg 

The brass collar on the right was a leftover from one of my earlier experiments. It works, so I decided to leave it in place. Note however, that whether you use a metal collar or the heat shrink tubing, it cannot cover the whole shaft as that will interfere with the intermediate gear just above it. Whether you use heat shrink tubing or a metal collar on the left side, you will need to do some widening and deepening where it fits in the chassis. Nothing drastic, just some shaving and scraping. I use a small jeweler's screwdriver that's been sharpened to a chisel point.

Did some tests, and it runs very smoothly. I hope this turns out to be a permanent solution

All questions, comments, and observations are more than welcome!

Regards,

Charlie

 

 

 

 

 

Reply 1
Warflight

Dipped...

I wonder if it could be dipped in the hot water? Not like, as it's boiling, but just as the bubbles stop? It's plastic, so I don't see water damaging the gear itself...

Reply 0
Warflight

Bachmann 44tonner

I attempted to buy gears from Shapeways for mine, and one was shattered on arrival, and one more shattered as I tried to fit it... so this might be a good option!

Reply 0
lexon

Loco generation

When you say first generation, two motor? You do say driven by the motor.  I had two motor 44 ton with cracked gear. Never looked that close.

I do have the single motor with LokSound now.

Rich

Reply 0
BklynXPat

Dipped and Loco Generation

As to whether or not the water has to be boiling hot - not sure. Actually, the steam coming out of the kettle is hotter than boiling water, so it's probably enough on it's own. I just figured that a few extra minutes of heat wouldn't hurt.

And yes, this is for the two-motor versions of the 44 and 70 tonners. When I said "driven by the motor", I was trying to differentiate between the gear that is closest to the worm on the motor, as opposed to the gear that gets its power from the series of three intermediate gears.

 

Reply 0
JSDupes

nice idea.  I purchased a 2nd

nice idea.  I purchased a 2nd generation (first version of the single motor, dcc-ready) engine for an On30 conversion, and found it had the cracked gears.  I ordered 3rd generation trucks from Bachmann and fitted them to the chassis with no trouble, just had to use the newer retaining clip that comes with the trucks, and the shorter driveshafts that came with the engine.  Of course, that was one of last weekends projects, and now I'm seeing your post!

Reply 0
Redvdub1

cracked axle repair

Charlie..please keep us informed periodically as to how this fix holds up.  Brilliant.   Applicable to a lot of situations.  

Reply 0
BklynXPat

Update

Once some lube gets into the works, the tubing seems to lose its grip on the axles shafts. It still retains its diameter, but "walks" a little from side to side. This doesn't seem to be much of a problem on the longer end of the shaft, but I had to disassemble one of the trucks and the tubing on the short end just fell right off. I slipped it back on and will keep an eye on it. I think I'm eventually going to have to revisit the idea of using brass sleeves, at least on the short ends.

Reply 0
Geoff Bunza geoffb

@BklynXPat re: Gear repair

Hi BklynXPat from another Brooklyn X patriot,
 
Check this out:
 
for another alternative to repairing these gears without machined collars.
Have fun! 
Best regards,
Geoff Bunza

Geoff Bunza's Blog Index: https://mrhmag.com/blog/geoff-bunza
More Scale Model Animation videos at: https://www.youtube.com/user/DrGeoffB
Home page: http://www.scalemodelanimation.com

Reply 1
BklynXPat

Alternative Gear Repair

geoffb:

Sounds like a viable alternative. Unfortunately for me, the eyes ain't as good as they used to be and the fingers ain't as nimble. Hell, I need a telescope and and two spotters just to keep from strangling myself while flossing. But I do appreciate the suggestion - thanks!

Reply 0
SPSOT fan

I have a similar 2 motor 70-tonner, w/ different issues

This is very interesting to hear that other modelers also have issues with these old two motor 70 ton GEs. I have one that wouldn’t run well and had motors that were loud and produced a smell like an old slot car. I replaced the motor in a vain attempt to solve the issue, which didn’t work.

It seams to me that a gear issue is a possible culprit of the poor running characteristics I have had. I will have to check next time I get it out (and fix other issues with it...). Perhaps I may be able to try this technique!

-Isaac

I’ll model my way and you’ll model yours!

Reply 0
NJWG

Bachmann gears again?

Thanks to the Corona Virus I am getting to a few sidelined projects on my list.

Have a Bachmann Doodlebug that I wanted to put a decoder in, Cracked gears!

Have 2 44 tonners Cracked gears. Bachman doesn't have parts.

I read somewhere that the 3rd Gen trucks fit but I hear they crack.

I am going to reach out to NWSL but are there any new solutions out there.

Thanks MARK

Reply 0
BklynXPat

Falling back to brass collars

Well, it was a nice dream while it lasted, but not a permanent solution. The heat shrink tubing is 'passable' for the long end, but not the short end. Once the lube works its way under it, it 'walks' around. It also looks like the lube eventually softens the tubing, reducing its effectiveness at containing the cracking.

So, it's back to brass collars. Since the shafts are 3.0mm O.D., I decided to use this:

label.jpg 

This required "machining" the shaft ends down to the point where the tubing could be pressed on for a snug fit (with a little CA added for grins). I didn't want to use my Dremel knockoff because I knew that the combination of a minimum 1000 RPM and my impatient nature would result in the smell of burning plastic. So, I found the right-sized brad, ran it through the axle hole, and chucked the "jig" into my 3/8 variable speed drill. Using low RPMs and a couple of grades of sandpaper got the job done without incident. The results are shown below (please pardon the poor quality - both my phone and I have the same level of photographic incompetence).

1 down, 7 more to go.

 

ear_side.jpg 

gear_end.jpg 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reply 1
Larry of Z'ville

I am a little confused

In the case that BklynXPat is talking about, the gear is ok, the shaft is cracked?  Is it cracked near the gear.  That is a stress concentration point.  Also is this the “tower” gear?  The gear that is directly connected to the motor.  
I have recently taken on a project from a client to improve the performance and noise signature on six of these GZg 70 models.  As usual, Bachmann has multiple variations of these units.  The ones I’m dealing with are all single motor.  This is a conventional diesel motor with a shaft extending from the motor rotor on both sides.  These shafts are directly coupled to the truck tower gear with a small dog bone.  
That could be accomplished with two motors with one shaft each as well.  
there are two versions of the truck “tower” gear.  One is a small diameter gear, about the same size as the coupling for the dog bone.  The other is a larger diameter gear, maybe 2.5 times a large as the first.  Needless to say the gears in the trucks are different.  The truck attachment is also different.  The firmer snaps on.  The latter is bolted on.  
so far the only gear failures I have found are on the out side axle gear on the same engine.  Here half of the gear teeth were sheared off, so it would run erratically and had a clicking sound.  The configuration is the former discussed above.  The parts between the two truck design are not interchangeable.  The only parts that Bachmann has on their site are the latter design.  At this moment I do not see a source for the failed axle gears.  

The latter design is also much noise than the former.  I believe that this the larger diameter gear making a siren type noise.  This noise is amplified by the shell.  Haven’t come up with a fix for that yet.  
 

Would like to know what gears/shafts are cracking, so I can look for the problem.

Will be quantifying the impact on my site when finished.

Thanks for any insight you can give.

So many trains, so little time,

Larry

check out my MRH blog: https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/42408

 or my web site at http://www.llxlocomotives.com

Reply 0
BklynXPat

These are the drive gears on

These are the drive gears on the two-motor 70 and 44 ton models. They're the ones the half-axles  fit into. The photos in my original post show the location(s).

Reply 0
NJWG

Bachmann gears again?

The gear that seems to crack is the axel gear that is a press fit on the two wheels. This results in wheel slipping and noise if the actual gear is cracked and not just the shoulder. some time ago i purchased a new set of trucks and just recently finished the repair.

Only the 3rd generation trucks are available and these are a solid axel with the wheels  insulated. Unfortunately the worm is smaller and a different design. With a NWSL puller i was able to remove the wheels and the square bearings. I reassembled these in the 2nd generation trucks. So far all is good and it runs very smooth. I also installed a bachmann decoder and Led headlights. It all tested fine but I cant take it to the club right now for a good run due to covid.

Reply 1
railandsail
Incomplete discussion.?

I've just discovered 2 of the 44 ton, dual motor versions in my inventory:
1) One looks to be brand new, and runs like a top...real smooth
2) Second one has the clicking sound, and looks to be a cracked axle gear. i can't tell how to get the trucks  apart to get the axle-wheel sets out of their trucks??
 
...any help?
Reply 2
railandsail
 
 
How did you get the axles out of the trucks to do those fixes you spoke of?
I don't see how those trucks pull apart??
 
[QUOTE>

Axle2(1).jpg 

The brass collar on the right was a leftover from one of my earlier experiments. It works, so I decided to leave it in place. Note however, that whether you use a metal collar or the heat shrink tubing, it cannot cover the whole shaft as that will interfere with the intermediate gear just above it. Whether you use heat shrink tubing or a metal collar on the left side, you will need to do some widening and deepening where it fits in the chassis. Nothing drastic, just some shaving and scraping. I use a small jeweler's screwdriver that's been sharpened to a chisel point.

Did some tests, and it runs very smoothly. I hope this turns out to be a permanent solution

All questions, comments, and observations are more than welcome!

 
 
Reply 3
forfoum
Brian,  This collar thing  is much work and  did not work for me.   I tried this as well and it did not close up the gap fully. There was still  much jerky motion from the engine because the gap causes the gear mesh to be off.  
 
The only fix that really works is  the gear/axel sets from NWSL as they are the one and only option available. Bachmann has no stock of replacement parts for the gears.  No gears, no axels, no trucks.
 
There are many threads in here re fixing this split gear 44 ton.   Replacing the split gear with one from NWSL is not a simple affair as well.
 
Marc
Reply 2
railandsail
I took my 44 ton truck off the chassis the other day, but did NOT take it apart yet. Appears as though one can not put an assembled axle-gear into the truck, but rather has to put the axles into the gear from either side,...one at a time.
 
Makes me wonder why after the discovery of faulty gears, Bachmann or someone else didn't just provide a proper plastic gear to replacement the old one??
Reply 3
railandsail
Repair of the 44 ton axle/gear assembly was a total failure,...the problem here is that you can NOT glue the gear to the axle, ...then insert the assembly  into the truck. It's too difficult to get the glue into the hole in the gear while sitting inside the truck housing.
 
One note of hope, that Loctite superglue is extremely adhesive !!   i was utilizing a slimmed-down toothpic to try and get the glue to the inner shaft hole of the plastic gear,...it touched one time to the walls of that gear and became very solidity glued,...had to try and drill it out, and that was a failure.   So the glue itself appears to be VERY adhesive to the plastic.
Reply 2
railandsail
Gears only?
Is there any source for the plastic axle gears only?
The  stock wheels-axles are like new
Reply 1
MikeHughes
Brian, if you poke through my 44 ton thread, there are pictures of the truck apart.  It was a while ago, and I am nowhere near the model right now, but I don’t recall it being remotely hard.    If I recall, there is a keeper plate on the bottom of the trucks that pops off from either end, then the axles come right out.
 
Also a fair bit of discussion on why I eventually gave up on the collars.  Even with brass collars, the tolerances need to be so tight to try and get the plastic back forced together that you are likely to bust something else forcing it in.  
 
I ended up getting new worm gears and trucks from Bachmann, but it took two tries to get the right worm gears, so if if they have any back in stock, be careful on ordering.  I had given them all the data they needed, but they messed up anyways.  Shipping it back  would have cost more than its worth.  I ended up paying shipping twice. 
 
Your best bet is to just buy new axles with gears from NWSL.
Reply 1
forfoum
Directing him to your thread is more or less helpful ,  apart for the knowledge gain,  as yours were all single motor trucks.  His is the DUAL motor version of the truck and are  totally different.
 
Bachmann does not have any gear or axel in stock to replace those cracked gears of the 44 ton or the 70 ton  (who used the same axels).   There is no point in  going that route unless they come out with a replacement in the future.  IF BAchmann comes out with a new release of the 44 ton it would probably have a redesigned  truck internals similar to the GEN 3.     What they had left was the same as what you would get from NWSL,  a gear and axel combo  which you must disassemble  when dealing with the  early truck of the dual motor version.
 
Someone on  Printables and Shapeway  offered  3D printed gears at one time but they also had a tendency to split during the wheel insertion.  They were pulled and not offered any more. 
 
 
 
Purchasing all the required tooling to print and ream the gears is absurd  when you can get the gear/axel assembly from the likes of NWSL.  And these are not in the habit of spiting on us.
 
Mike and I depleted the remaining gear  stock Bachmann had for the 44 and 70 ton. 
 
Marc
Reply 1
MikeHughes
Yep, NWSL is the only solution now.   To answer your question about getting the trucks apart, here is a plastic keeper plate on the bottom of each truck.  They pop off from either end, then the axles come right out. The keepers fit over this little nub circled in red.
5962B807-33C6-46AF-B326-CB59DE745B71.jpeg
 
I really must get that model finished up when I get back to the coast. 
Reply 0
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