eastwind

I want to make a jig out of wood similar to the fast tracks frog helpers, but with an angle they don't sell, and with the rail held upside down instead of right-side up.

The rail I am using is ME code 83, which has a rail-head width of .029". 

So I need to make straight cuts in wood with a very exact kerf of .03" or slightly more. The depth of the slot needs to be at least .08", so the foot of the rail rests on top of the jig, but if it's a little deeper it shouldn't matter.

I've shopped around for various kinds of saws but not found what I'm looking for. Jeweler's saws seem to have much smaller kerf, as do 'ultra-fine' razor saws. For things that might be larger it's often hard to determine from the product page what the kerf of a saw actually is, they often list the blade thickness but not the set of the teeth or the kerf.

The cut wouldn't have to be very long, 4" is fine, so a razor saw, jewelers saw, coping saw, or small hack saw would all do if they had the right kerf.

But hand-tools only, I'm not interested in spending $100 for this little experiment.

 

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Reply 0
slttek

How about a router bit?

How about a router bit?

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Nick Santo amsnick

Got any styrene sheets?

I’ve used styrene for a lot of jigs.  If you aren’t going to solder it might work also.

Track nails into drilled hard wood might also be considered.

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

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Ironrooster

Use a narrower kerf and sand

Use a narrower kerf and sand to width.  Sanding sticks, emery boards, or sandpaper glued to strip wood should work.

Paul

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Neil Erickson NeilEr

Maybe a cheap solution

Instead of routing out a piece, consider building up a couple layers and leave the grooves for the rail. Maybe a couple layers of 0.040 styrene stacked on a base?

Neil Erickson, Hawai’i 

My Blogs

Reply 0
eastwind

Thanks

If buy a router bit then I'd still need someone to give me their old router for free, lol.

I want to make it for soldering custom angled frogs, and I want to see if soldering frogs upside down works better than right-side up, so I think styrene won't do.

I could just spike the pieces down each time, but I thought once I could cut grooves of the right size I might think of other jigs I'd want to make as well.

I could add a second layer of strip wood on top of a wood base, leaving slots as Neil suggests.

You can call me EW. Here's my blog index

Reply 0
Neil Erickson NeilEr

Soldering

Of course! (Slapping forehead)

When I got my Dremel it came with a base to clean out tile grout but would work well as a router base. The trick would be finding the right size bit. Our Ace Hardware has quite a selection.  Just a thought. 

Neil Erickson, Hawai’i 

My Blogs

Reply 0
Wazzzy

No special tools to get the

8_082028.jpg 

No special tools to get the custom jig you desire. Use a thick flat piece of scrap wood and mark your frog angle. Glue straight guides (t/o cross ties) along the frog angle lines. File the rail to form the frog. Place the rails along the inside of the guides and slide towards the frog until touching. Tape the rails in place to avoid movement and check they are flat on the bottom. Soldier the frog. File away any excess soldier. 

If you need to do the soldiering on the underside of the frog, simply add a second set of guides (a rail head apart). Put the rail into the gap upside down.

Alan Loizeaux

CEO  Empire Trackworks   (Empire-Trackworks.com)

Modeling ON30 DRG

Husband, Father, Grandpa, Retired Military, Conductor / Yard Master Norfolk Southern, custom track work builder (S, SN3, On3, On30 & others)

Reply 0
barr_ceo

Get yourself a square maple

Get yourself a square maple "dowel", cut the pieces to length, and Gorilla Glue them to a piece of scrap pine. Be sure to clamp them down while the glue foams and dries so it doesn't push things out of alignment. You're in for about a dollar.

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Reply 0
ctxmf74

"I want to make it for

Quote:

"I want to make it for soldering custom angled frogs, and I want to see if soldering frogs upside down works better than right-side up, so I think styrene won't do."

Why not just file the rails then spike them to the ties and solder it in place? This automatically aligns the frog with the rails coming in and going out of it as you can use longer pieces of rail and cut the gaps later. My closure rails are one piece from frog to point hinges and diverging rails extend from frog to clearance point beyond. Once everything is secured in place and ready to install on the layout  I cut gaps close to the frog with a dremel disc.....DaveB 

Reply 0
vggrek

which of seven?

which of seven?

Reply 0
eastwind

Thanks all

Plenty of good alternatives here. 

You can call me EW. Here's my blog index

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