Ikea?

While you say no carpentry, how does Ikea assembly sound? I've heard of people building layouts on top of Ikea bookshelves. Maybe as simple as a couple of 2x8 slices of 1/4 or 3/8" plywood, you can get it cut down where you buy it most of the time. You can even put a layer of foam on it. 

Look at Sievers Benchwork

No carpentry required, presuming you mean cutting and fitting lumber and dealing with sawdust. You just screw the precut parts together with a power drill driver. They provide all needed fasteners. Holes for wiring are predrilled in the cross members. If you want wood open grid benchwork, it’s about the easiest. You will have to provide and cut tops, either plywood or foam, or other sub roadbed.

Some modelers here have used foam core board as subroadbed and even as complete benchwork. Glued together in a box framework with yellow wood glue, it’s pretty strong. The main challenge is achieving square cuts.

In the same boat

All I can offer is that I'm in a very similar situation. Living in a rented condo with little access to power tools. Cannot mount anything to the walls. I like the idea of Ikea shelves, but have no way to construct the base. I've thought about hollow core doors, as Lance Mindheim has used in the past. Makes running wires, etc. a little more difficult.

The suggestion of pre-fab modules (Sievers, Mainne etc) is a good one. You still need to cut the plywood for the top (or use foam). Most lumber yards will cut the plywood for you.

Being lightweight is also desirable. I've thought about Gator Board but the cost is up there.

I hope you find a solution that works for you, again all I can chime in with is that I feel your pain! It's been tough moving out of a good sized house with a finished basement to a small condo. But life throws curveballs at you sometimes..

Art Store

If you have an art store near you, they sell cradled wood panels. It is basically a 1 1/2 “ frame with birch plywood panel on top. They come in all sorts of sizes, running up to 2 ft by 6 ft. A few of those would make a perfect base.

there is a great video from a German guy about how he uses these to build a portable, reconfigurable layout. Wish I could remember the link to his page, it was a great idea!

modules

Tables

2'x3', 2'x4', and 2'x6' folding leg tables are easy to set up.  You can lay plywood or foam on the top and span short distances.  As noted above Lowes, Home Depot, etc will cut the plywood for you. 18" deep tables are also available.

Paul

@Jeff has a good idea... I'd suggest this

Using this framework for supports, you could expand between units with hollow core shelves or shelves of your design.

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/53755809/

These end supports are quite solid and stable... a bit of cross bracing helps stablize the assembly.

Here is the Link

Here is the link to the layout built from artist cradle board:

https://waldbahner.de/en/2016/02/h0e-videos-zur-anlagentechnik/

IKEA Ivar shelving system

I show how I used this system to support the benchwork on my new layout in my next Getting Real column in MRH. 

Foam core benchwordk

Here are a couple threads that discuss foamcore benchwork, assemble with wood glue, hot glue and cut with a knife.

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/foamcore-layout-baseboard-12197926

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/light-and-easy-12197574

There are others as well, but I think these will give you the idea.

Benchwork

I am looking forward to Marty's article in the next MRH. I have been looking at the IKEA IVAR line but have not figured out how to use it practically in my situation. I have also looked at square pvc tube, aluminum shapes and even having a nearby Rockler store help build a custom wood design.

Jim B. As to foam core.  I am not concerned about the surface after I have the support structure at this point. I am well aware of various foam core and insulation board layout surface options. I just need something to hold it up 40 inches (or 1 meter) above the floor in the configuration that I need.

kja

Take a look

Take a look here...

A bit pricey, but you won't need to pay a carpenter to build it, right?

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/work-benches/systems/euro-style/48x24-european-style-shop-top-workstation?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt_nmBRD0ARIsAJYs6o3FPRPz__07ByKcojQG-3LUN6q6dq_wcMrcGhwpMkAkn6zWkr5-_K0aAsRqEALw_wcB

Foam core - not just the surface

The use for foam core board, not insulation foam, is to make the modules/sections which makes them very light so they can sit on almost anything for legs, including foam core box beams. You use big binder clips to hold the modules/sections together.

As the foam core construction would be light weight perhaps you can use PVC pipe for the legs, maybe create pockets for them to slip into in the corners of the sections.

I don't know where you live, but something like this adjustable saw horse that harbor frieght has may be available in your area: https://www.harborfreight.com/foldable-adjustable-sawhorse-69059.html

It's in Running Extra

It's actually in the June issue of Running Extra (1.99), just so you know.

June Issue Running Extra

good to know, Joe.

I am an RE subscriber.....

kja

Marty's Benchwork from Ikea in June Running Extra

I have just read Marty's IKEA Benchwork article in the June Running Extra. It is an excellent article and looks like it will become a fine layout meeting Marty (and his wife's) needs.

But not that inexpensive. I pulled up the current IKEA catalog and the smallest Ivar unit (other than a one section with bottle racks) is $77 for a 48 inch high 68 inch long and 12 inch deep unit.  A 19 inch wide section is $115. ( https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/departments/living_room/11703/) 

Considering I would have to reduce the height the Ikea virtical components to 39 inches (allowing for a 3 inch sub-roadbed structure overlapping the top 2 inches of Ivar framing to reach my maximum sub-roadbed height of 40 inches-a fixed restriction) and additionally build the framework for the sub-roadbed it will take considerable carpentry that I am trying at all cost to avoid. I have no workshop, limited tools and my layout will have to be built cleanly in a finished bedroom of my townhouse. 

I have priced Sievers benchwork (MRH advertiser) and it would come in at about the same prices or a little more for what I need but at least I can get a custom height.  However,  the shipping to the west coast may be prohibitive. I still have to talk to the local Rockler workshop to see if they can cut the components for me and provide cabinetry design advice. Friends who might have been able to help are either not available until the fall or are like myself no longer in posession of woodworking tools.

I will have to break the rather depressing logjam of benchwork indecision soon and build something for a little bit of trackwork. 

Quandry

KJA

Layout Looking for Non-Carpentry Benchwork

This is the current dream design. Note that to the right is a 2 foot space allowing access to built in book shelves, cabinets and a wet bar. There is a pocket door just to the right where it is marked WB to Crockett and Oakland.

The layout area is 11 by 9 feet.  The design is a modeling display layout rather than an operations oriented replication of freight and passenger movements. Track arrangements at Port Costa an Walnut Creek replicate condensed track plans of actual locations. Avon is a bit more fanciful.  I operate strictly with DCC fitted locomotives. Trackwork will be a mix of Peco Code 83 and Code 70, Micro-Engineering and possibly others. I have a good stash of Peco Code 75 that will suffice until their Code 70 turnouts are available.

I am probably going to add a friends suggestion of a cart fiddle yard/staging connection at the end of Walnut Creek to allow for longer length and by making it double allow for turning a 3 foot train segment. One could look at that as a truncated homage to the original purpose of Port Costa as the southern terminus of the SP car ferry that moved all mainline trains across the Carquinez strait until a bridge was completed in 1928.  The ferry pier tracks would have been located coming off the outside of the curve in the lower right corner.

Note the 5 sections/modules and their dimensions. These form the requirements for the benchwork sections. I will possibly do a John Allen style bridge and mirror where it is marked Martinez, Sac , ROW (Rest of World)/ 

Aluminium framing??

Hi Ken,all

have you given up on the aluminium framing idea for your modules??

If not, I have some support ideas that might work for you and leave most of the space under clear. 

A comment - unless you have another someone with you when it comes time to move these modules or layout sections, do not try it by yourself. It could lead to stretched muscles or a dropped module at module at worst. I think you may have seriously under-estimated just how unwieldy your longer layout sections will be when it comes to moving them to and from your workspace area. Even flipping one of these modules to get at wiring underneath could push the capabilities of a single person.  With modules that long, doing something like this by yourself will be a challenge, no matter how "light" you build your layout section.

 Have a quick MRH search for "awkwardness factor" for more information. Beware the Texas Syndrome when planning layout section sizes if you are a solo modeller without access to an assistant lifter when you need one.  

Steel Stud Benchwork

Hi Smadanek,

I recommend steel studs for the framework and 2" foam for the layout surface.  The studs are straight, always the same dimension and lighter than wood.

Minimum tools are needed(Tin snips, drill, pop rivits and gloves).  Minimum cleanup(no sawdust).

Minimal expansion/contraction issues caused by humidity.

Ken, Thanks for the kind

Ken, 

Thanks for the kind word on the article.

All the IKEA Ivar system offers is a layout support structure - in the case of your plan if I was going to go the Ivar route I'd use one or two "wide" side units to the left side of the drawing, one narrow one at the bottom, and one or two narrow side units at the right side, then I'd span the open area between the Ivar units with benchwork. For added stability you could attach the benchwork to the wall, using screws or even the earthquake "straps" IKEA includes with all its furniture. But if the benchwork was built to touch the walls on all four sides as you're drawing shows it wouldn't be necessary to secure it to the wall at all. Cutting the height of the IKEA side units isn't really a big problem - it doesn't have to be a precise cut and can be done with a hand saw (that's how I've cut mine!). 

All that said, I think you're better off seeing if you can either go with a solution like Sievers or Mianne - frankly I think Mianne may be a better solution. As you noted, shipping Sievers is expensive - you're basically getting a big box filled with heavy wood shipped halfway across the country. Sievers didn't originate making model railroad benchwork - they made or make looms - so the wood is large (1 x 4s as I recall) and heavy. Mianne components are noticeably lighter. 

One other advantage with ready to assemble benchwork is the way the cross members have holes predrilled - makes it easy to run buss wires and the like without having to drill a bunch of holes! 

Another option - perhaps you could look into having a wood working shop precut the components for you? Basically give them a dimensioned drawing and have them create a customized "kit"?

Another thought - you might even find a day job carpenter who can use your drawing to build the benchwork for you offsite and then assemble it in the bedroom for you. It's not complex carpentry and you might find paying someone to do it is less expensive and produces a more custom solution than either Sievers or IKEA. 

Good luck!

Marty

Marty's Benchwork Ideas

Thanks again Marty

Actually I have been thinking again about the custom woodwork idea. The price of cabinet grade lumber is steep these days but I am coming around to that as possibly the only solution that I can get accomplished. 

Along those lines I started to do what a modeler does when frustrated and build a model of part of the benchwork to give me an idea of what I would need to have cut.  

The attached photo is a 1 inch = 1 foot concept model of the benchwork section C on my plan.  It would be the largest of the sections being 30 inches by 72 inches.  The plan would be (harder to get) 1 X 3 or 1 X 4 wood for the L girder and 2 X 2 legs.  The lower strengthening  pieces would again be 1 X 3 or 1 X 4.  Note that the L girder that is in back by the wall is reversed. This section is 6 feet long and 30 inches wide. The height is 36 inches which allows for up to 4 inches for 1 X 2 cross pieces and 1 or 2 inch foam sub roadbed to reach the maximum planned modeling surface height of 40 inches. 

There are no grades in my trackplan. I plan on using a 1 inch foam as the basic line and adding another 1 inch foam that can be cut out to provide a little surface elevation relief and allow for the turntable depth.  

I am looking for stability and rigidity more than mobility. All wood pieces would be attached by screws.  It could be collapsed back into a pile of cut lumber when I need to move out. 

What I did.

This is not exactly what you said you wanted. But, it's what I did.

This is what I did last year. The intent was to caulk the foam to the bracket. Those brackets are screwed into the studs on the wall. The foam is just sitting/resting on those brackets. The slight warping will be eliminated when the caulk is applied. Nothing simpler. And use caulk to attach roadbed to foam. Use caulk to attach track to roadbed. And as of this year, that's where I'm at. A shelf that works. Now, in my case, I have wiring on top. And anything like that will have to be hid by scenery. I suppose there are other alternatives. But that's what I did and am doing.

Nothing that New Surfaced

Just to finish this topic that I started several months ago.

i didn't find anything that was new that would work for my situation. I am about to assemble the first piece of very traditional wood benchwork. I designed the layout and am working on it section by section in a TOMR fashion.  First I made a plastic 1 inch to the foot model of this section to estimate the wood pieces needed.  Then I went to a nearby Rockler woodworking shop. They do not use softwood but I was able to get reasonable costs using poplar. It came in at about $120 for the wood. I don't mind the cost as this will be like a piece of furniture and I want a neat clean appearance.

Thus far I have constructed the first two L girders (glued and screwed) and drilled and installed casters on the 4 legs. I am working very slow as it has been almost 30 years since I performed any woodworking. Next will be attaching the legs and adding braces. I am using 2  1/4 inch X 3 inch carriage bolts for each leg to L girder attachment.

The first photo is a mockup to ensure dimensions will fit the track plan. The top of the benchwork is 40 inches high with the casters. This will allow the rolling carts I use for tools and projects in progress to be stored under the layout. I have 1"X2" on hand for the cross joists and on top of that 1" extruded foam (if I can get a large enough vehicle to get it from the Home Depot.)

Initial Benchwork Test Traditional Wood and Foam Core Underlay

I am finally test assembling the initail section benchwork for the layout. This gives me a 72X32 inch working surface that will underlie the most complicated trackwork and turntable. The tray table milk carton are there to support the test assembly. In order to get the legs and cross supports square and accurate, I will unbolt the L girders, build the supports and then re-assemble. There is a lower cross support to keep the leg assembies rigid. Like archeologists I will  carefully mark which leg and L girder now go together to ensure they go back the same way. The printer and PC are going on a lower stand before the final assembly.  I am working in fairly tight area hear so things have to move around for each step. The sections will have the 2 inch high full locking casters mounted after the legs are in place to bring the top of benchwork to bring the level height to 40 inches. This will clear the rolling storage carts that will go under the layout .

I am still playing around with baseboards. The advocates of foamcore over sheet extruded foam probably have the upper leg as I have no friends with an available pickup or large SUV to go 40-50 miles to the nearest Home Depot that sells 1 and 2 inch extruded foam. I can easily drive 10 miles to a Blicks Art Supplies and buy 40 X 60 sheets of 1/2 inch foamcore to form the baseboard in my mini SUV. I can laminate two sheets together to create a fairly sturdy 1" thick baseboard. The turntable pit depth problem will be solved by taking a 1/2 inch piece of plywood and mounting it under the lip of the L girder to support the pit and give me more than adequate depth. The turntable and engine shed are the focus or crown jewel of this layout representing Port Costa 1947-54 so everything must be designed around that feature.

I keep plugging along. I am designing the A section for along the wall perpendicular to the C section above and the connecting B section which may be suspended between the A and C sections.  See my earlier diagram posted in this blog. The A section will be similar to the C section in construction but only 20 inches wide.  It is about 56 inches long. And I am beginning to feel like an actor on "Tool Time" acquiring all the Binford accessories but with minimal place to store them. Harbor Freight really likes me.