Image Resize?

Dear RMeyer,

In the post I'm seeing, only the trailing truck and rear driving axle is visible,
(no "highlighted in Red" parts are visible?)

Are you sure you resized the image during posting to 750 pixels? 
(doing this during the "post an image" process will auto-generate a clickable version which opens the "full size version" in a new window)

For a "how to" do this, see
https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/help/how-to-post-an-image

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Second try on photo

Thanks for the image suggestion.

Looks to be a John English

Looks to be a John English 2-8-2. The line was active for a while in the 50's and I think bought by Lionel in the end.

You should find some imfo here:

https://www.hoseeker.net/hobbyline.html 

LensCapOn: The link is dead ... gives a 404 not found. —MRH

Hmmm

Might be a 40’s/50’s era John English model. I think they also made a 4-6-2 and other models one or two of which ended up in the Bowser catalog, though this one didn’t. If I get a chance I’ll snoop through some old MR’s later.

Barry P.

Varney “brass line” 2-8-2

Measure the other screw?

There is a linkage combination on the other side of the loco, which you don't say has lost its screw. Can you remove that screw and measure it to guide purchase of the replacement?

That brand old loco is very likely to have  American screws, so with luck a few nuts can "nail it down" for you.

00-90, 0-80, 1-72, etc.

DrJolS

Definitely a John English

For the record, that is a John English Mikado. As for mounting the main rod and valve gear to the crosshead, it looks like what you need is a 2-56 shoulder screw of the proper length. Those should be relatively (emphasis on the “relatively) easy to obtain. You could remove the one from the fireman’s side to provide yourself a guide to finding a match.

Hope this helps.

Mike

Hoseeker link (that works)

For Hoseeker link try this. I suspect you copied the link from a "drop down"

https://www.hoseeker.net/hobbyline.html
/>
Then just navigate to the appropriate John English instruction set.

Rob Clark

Wow!

I'm impressed!

Joe said:

I didn't know Joe would be that well versed on vintage HO steam engines!! 

Surprised me, he did. Well done, Joseph!

Andre

...

Yes, except it's not a Varney, It's an English.

It's hard to find one without ZAMAC disease.  If you have one, it's a great find.

Well...

He at least knew more than I did!

Andre

Varney or English?

Is this one of those times where one became the other over the years?  Athearn O scale metal boxcars were reborn about a half dozen times with new names...DaveB

English

It’s definitely John English and not Varney. 

Varney 1950 catalog.

https://hoseeker.net/varneyinformation/varneycatalog1950pg14.jpg

Mike

The dimensions of the missing screw

Thanks everyone for your responses. I looked at the instruction sheet for the John English Mikado and I think that is what it is. The body is in good shape.

I have attached a diagram of the measurements of the left side screw. The gray area represents the screw threads. The diagram is not to scale. The vertical measurements of the shoulder and threaded area are approximate, because I could not get my calipers to rest against anything. I compared the threads to my set of thread dies and they seemed to be closest to 0-80. The screw has straight slot for a small screw driver, but if I can find a screw with a hex drive head that would work also.

Any info about sources would be appreciated.

confirm "seemed to be closest to 0-80?"

Good job measuring. If you are content with the apparent similarity to the 0-80 die, then that's probably good. But your measurement of thread diameter is not approximate, and there is a metric screw, 1.8,, of that size.  

I would use an 0-80 nut to thread onto the screw to be really sure. If no nut, since you have a die set you probably have drills and taps. So thread an 0-80 hole for a test.

DrJolS

Unknown thread size

I drilled a couple of holes in a piece of aluminum and threaded one with 0-80 threads and one with 0-90 threads and then tested the screw from the left side of the locomotive The diameter of the 0-80 hole was a bit larger than the screw and the 0-90 was smaller. What possibilities are there between those sizes?

Time for GOOGLE?

Here are metric screw sizes that may work

Metric 1.6, tap drill #55  is dia .052 in

    and 1.8, tap #50  is dia .070 in

I have previously run into other tiny screws, and have (deliberately?) forgotten the details, but Japanese rings a faint bell, and there may be some British sizes as well.

Maybe it's time for you to look in GOOGLE for screw sizes. 

Or start looking for another model to cannibalize.

DrJolS

John English was from New Jersey

He started making trains around 1950, plus or maybe bus a couple of years.  At that time, very little was metric in the US.  If the diameter is about right, the difference maybe in the thread type.   What was considered course threads were cheaper and normally adequate for Model trains.  However, they may have used a finer thread.  

. .

Looking for info for someone else came upon this. Several catalogs of misc sundries and screws and what not available.

https://www.precisionscaleco.com/

Marc

Static display? Put the left

Static display? Put the left screw in the right crosshead and glue the other side in place.

CVMW

You might also contact Central Valley Model Works.  They originally made a valve gear kit for the English models.  It was 70± years ago, but CVMW is still the same family, so... worth a try.

Shoulder screws

Bowser made 5 lengths of 0-80 shoulder screws. Part nos. 1720, 1721, 31010, 80004 and 80006. Give them a call.

Bowser,merged with Hobbyline...

....ages ago,so bowser parts should work.

Keep an eye out for casting rot(aka zinc pest),clean off and repaint as needed.

Is this for a Mantlepiece Display or "background model" at a roundhouse or deadline on the layout?

I have 3 4-6-2's and 2 2-8-2's and about 8 0-4-0 PRR A5's.

 I have 3, 4-6-2's and 2, 2-8-2's and about 8, 0-4-0 PRR A5' Yard Bird switchers. None seem to have any zinc rot problems. Just keep them out of dame areas. Mine are in my attic. Nothing damp up there. Not do I just have them but they all run. 

frank