LMACKATTACK

Hello all

 I model the midwest I.C.R.R. during the steam/diesel era. I have held an intrest in night running for with a well lit layout. I had been installing lights in buildings and streets but something was missing. The one thing that always stood out was that all the buildings and streets had lights but the cars and trucks placed on the table were not.  I started 3 years ago with grain of wheat style bulbs but learned quickly that sometimes they are too big. So I tinkered with LEDs and quickly found that Fiberoptics used with LED is the way to go. So I have been installing LEDs in all my trucks using the Fiberoptics to lite up headlights,tail lights and marker lights etc....  Its been fun and fairly easy for the most part. I have done about 10 diffrent trucks and 4 autos. I have it down to about an hour for a tractor trailer and 20 mins for a auto. Here are a few pics of my work....

 

Regards

Trent

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Reply 0
jappe

Hi Trent...

top notch modeling

Myself am also looking into using fiber optics, motive power retrofit with fiber optics to be more exact. (Athearn swithers and Athearn in general). So if I may, could you explain a bit more on how you proceed. The more ideas, the better.

 

Jappe

CEO, U.P.-Willamette Valley Sub aka U.P.-Eureka & Willamette Valley Branch

----------------------------------Ship it now, Ship it right---------------------------------------------

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Don't ride behind me, I will not lead you, don't ride in front of me, I will not follow you, just ride next to me and be my bro......

Reply 0
Dave K skiloff

I agree

Lighting is one of those things that I think add so much to a scene and fibre optics offers an array of possibilities.  Any further "how-tos" would be great.

Dave
Playing around in HO and N scale since 1976

Reply 0
LMACKATTACK

How to....

Thanks for asking, I take a trailer and drill out any marker light that will be seen. If the truck will only bee seen from the front and sides I drill the nose and both sides of the trailer with a 1.00mm drill bit. Then I run 1.00mmm fiberoptics thru the holes and cut them so that I have a little extra length to work with (if needed). Now add a dab of glue to hold the fiberoptics so they cant slide out of the holes. I gather the fiberoptics that I want to shine amber, bundle them up and use a 1/4" length heat shrink tube to hold them. a dab of thick CA glue holds the heat shrink tube to the fiberoptics. Now I grab the rest of the fiberoptics that I want to shine red and do the same with them. after I have all bundled up I cut the extra lenght off of the fibers close to the heat shrink tube. I now grab a amber and red LED and wire them up in seriers. Bend them so that they face the correct way, install a slightly larger heat shrink over the LED and then slide the LED with larger heat shrink tube over the smaller bundle. Another dab of CA will hold theLED in place and trap the light right in front of the fiber ends.  After the LEDs are in I solder a resistor to one lead. Now run 2 Feeder wires from each of these leeds that will exit thru the trailer floor and to your DC or DCC power source. If you want to get trick you can also run 2 wires off of the LED leads (before the resistor) and use them to light the tractor LED also. Simply drill a hole in the nose of the trailer so that these wires look like air hoses. Run the wires to the tractor frame where the other LED is used for the trucks lights. 

The tractor is the hard part as there is less room. I use a single white LED and run 1.00mm fibers from the head light to the underside of the frame. and if I want roof lights I run .25mm fiberoptics thru the cab and to the roof. same process with heat shrink tubes and glue where all the fibers meet under the frame. If I want the roof marker lights to shine amber I simple paint the tips of them yellow/amber. I now have headlights and cab markers off of one white LED on the tractror and Amber and Red in the trailer. Attached is a dump truck where you can see how the leds and fipers all come into play. the red and black air line are ran to the LED that is under the truck and painted Black to help reduce any light from leaking out of the tubes.

 

   quit simple once you get "in the groove"

Regards

Trent Blasco

 

 

 

 Edit: Enlarged pictures .

Reply 0
Geared

Well done

This is great modelling and ingenious. Well done.

Roy

Roy

Geared is the way to tight radii and steep grades. Ghost River Rwy. "The Wet Coast Loggers"

 

Reply 0
Scarpia

Great topic

Great work and topic. Is it possible, do you know, to paint the LEDs with an opaque paint instead? 


HO, early transition erahttp://www.garbo.org/MRRlocal time PST
On30, circa 1900  

 

Reply 0
CL30

Great source for your LED's

Guys,

We have the SMD402 LED's in stock which are the smallest you can currently get.  They are offered in packs of two or ten and you can purchase pre-wired versions with leads attached.

They have a warm color and are not a harsh blue tone which makes them perfect for your headlights or other applications without modifying the lens color.

Here's a link,

http://railflyermodelprototypes.myshopify.com/products/smd-402-led-10-pack

Take care,

Christopher Howard

Railflyer Model Prototypes Inc.

http://www.railflyermodelprototypes.com

Reply 0
caboose14

Great Idea

Trent..........nicely done! Another project to put on my things to try. I've always thought that we spend the time lightin up our buidings and locomotives, but all the vehicles have been driving in the dark! Thanks for posting.

Kevin Klettke CEO, Washington Northern Railroad
ogosmall.jpg 
wnrr@comcast.net
http://wnrr.net

Reply 0
Matthew W Hardey Matt Hardey

Light Pipe Material

What's your best or recommended source for the small diameter fibre?

Matt Hardey

​New Orleans Great Northern Railroad

Covington, LA

Reply 0
taholmes160

Following

Blank message so I Can follow the thread

TIM

Reply 0
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