Ballasting the tracks can bring that all important finished look to any model railroad. Many readers on this site already have their own technique for this, but not everyone is an expert. So for everyone else, who is just learning, here is how I have refined this simple but daunting (if you've not done it before) landscape skill.

My layout, The Trenton Subdivision in N Scale is 12 x 11 x 6 foot "U" shape, with a double main line, freight and passenger yards, engine maintenance facility and numerous industries, so there is a considerable amount of ballast work to be done.

So finding a simple, quick and easy method of ballasting was imperative. I spoke with several hobbyists, watched many Youtube videos and scoured numerous websites and blogs. With all this information I have developed my own technique.

 This section of CPR's mainline in Belleville, Ontario shows just how diverse ballast on the railroads can be.

Choosing the type of ballast for the layout can be daunting all on its own, deciding on the colour and size of the stone, are we replicating an existing railroad or making it look good for our own personal taste. These questions, you have to answer for yourself.

I chose a combination of existing colours and sizes from Woodland Scenics. I mix medium buff with fine gray blend and add some black ballast. This lightens the colour of the buff and gives a combination of small and larger stones.

The tools I use for ballasting are also quite simple. I pour the ballast from a condiment size bottle with the opening cut large enough to allow the ballast to slowly fall from the bottle. This allows me to control the amount of ballast I lay, also if you have to squeeze the bottle the air pressure will blow your laid ballast all over. 

A fine mist spray bottle for "Wet Water." Wet Water is a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water. This allows the glue to quickly disperse into the ballast. I use a mixture of 70% water to 30% alcohol. Dish soap can be used in place of the alcohol. I prefer the alcohol as it evaporates while drying and doesn't leave a slippery soap residue on the tracks.

I use an old paint bottle for the glue mixing a ratio of 25% white glue to 75% water and use an eye dropper for applying.

I have a couple of brushes on hand to shape the ballast and ensure that it sits neatly between the ties.

With my tools readily at hand, laying the ballast proceeds quickly.

After laying the track, I rough in the scenery. Make sure the entire area is clean of debris. The little bits and pieces of foam, dirt and garbage will be glued into the ballast, affecting the final appearance of your work.

I apply a coat of green paint to either side of the track before I lay ballast. This helps with the transition from ballast to scenery later. It is almost impossible to paint along the ballast later without painting the ballast. 

This section of the layout, the mainline enters a tunnel. I roughed in the tunnel entrance and also painted black inside the tunnel area.

Using the condiment bottle I lay my ballast between the ties, then on both sides of the track and between the main line. Work on a small area at a time. A large area can be difficult to manage.

Using the brushes, I work the ballast into the ties and shape the outside edges. I also use my finger to run along the tracks, ensuring that no ballast is on or beside the rails or on top of the ties. This creates almost a vibration effect that settle the ballast into place. Any ballast left on the rails can cause operating problems later, interfering with the wheels of the trains.

Next, I liberally spray the area with Wet Water, ensuring that the water/alcohol mixture covers the entire ballasted area. Don't worry about this turnout, it is manual and has no electrical components. Otherwise cover your turnouts to ensure they are not exposed to water/glue.

I apply the glue and water mixture with an eye dropper, the Wet Water breaks the surface tension of the glue and allows it to flow easily through the ballast. The eye dropper allows me to control where and how much glue I apply, ensuring that glue does not get on the rails. We all know how hard it can be to get glue off the rails after it dries. 

Working in small manageable sections, gives me time to complete an area of ballast and allow it to dry.

Once the sections have had time to dry, I begin ballasting the sections between them. I find it easier to mark the section ends before I start.

As you can see, once the Wet Water is applied, it is impossible to see where the previous glued sections end and the newly laid ballast begins.

Once laid, ballast gives an attractive finishing touch to the track. It also has a practical use, same as the railroads use ballast to secure and hold the tracks, properly laid ballast on the layout will do the same, preventing the track from moving.

Now I can work on the tunnel entrance and walls to the approach. But that's another blog.