UglyK5

Finally broke through the apathy barrier that stood between the existing layout and eastward expansion.  

 

There is over 5’ of clear wall space past a rarely used attic door that I wanted to access for a 5 track yard. A while back I had assembled a 12”x60” module and just now also built a 41”x12” lift out section. 

 

First the attic door doorknob had to be replaced with a low profile latch handle Since the knob stuck out too far and was right at layout height. 

 

The modules are both made with my regular steel/Masonite/foam methodology, plus 1/2” plywood end plates with an aluminum French Cleat made by OOK from Home Depot. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-Hangman-13-Piece-French-Cleat-Picture-Hanger-Kit-with-Wall-Dogs-55312/202341625?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-202341629-_-202341625-_-N

 

The adjacent sections just sit unattached on shelf brackets so I wanted the bridge to be interlocked to its neighbors as opposed to sitting on a keyed “saddle” type mounting. Otherwise it could crash to the floor if an anchor section moves a little. So the lift out section hangs on the French cleats. 

 

The sections were evened out and leveled with a belt sander and some filing with joint compound. One can’t rely on the foam to be truly flat. Then all foam was painted with a lovely shade of leftover paint similar to baby poop color.  

 

Next up before laying track is to add 1/4” trim over and around the French cleats so there’s a continuous solid surface for the track and no lateral movement of the bridge. Then a fascia is needed to tidy up the front. 

 

Pictures in following posts 

 

Jeff

 
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“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
Reply 0
UglyK5

Pics

Looking back “West” At the existing layout  

1D6943C.jpeg 

New modules (in front and to right of door)

E207056.jpeg 

EF4CF37.jpeg 

“Flat” doorknob and half of French cleat  (this was initial fit check, more screws were added)

75DCA97.jpeg 

—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
Reply 0
Goose in The Caboose Productions

Quality Work

This is looking awesome, you've done a fantastic job of blending the existing layout into the cabnitry and making it disappear into the room when you're not looking at it.

Just a question of clarification though, what are you going to do with that section to the left of the door? With the amount of space in the new staging yard, you could probably turn that in a rather large industry.

Anyways, great post and looking forward to more!!!!

_garthft.jpg 

Goose in The Caboose Productions  -  Railroad and Model train fanatic, superhero fan, and lover of historically accurate and well-executed sword fights.

Long live railroading and big steam!! And above all, stay train-crazy!!!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTkT-p0JdEuaMcMD10a72bg

 

Reply 0
UglyK5

Hey Goose thanks for the kind

Hey Goose thanks for the kind word!  

The section left of the door is currently setup for a 2 bay Pikestuff engine house (2 tracks closest to front edge, rear track will be only track that crosses onto lift out section to enter new yard and will serve as a yard lead).  I’m mulling over whether I want to keep the engine house or make that an industry... was also thinking about adding a facing point turnout to the rear with a couple car spots and a flat industry but was concerned that would be ALOT of track jammed in there.  

jeff

—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
Reply 0
Charles Malinowski Bmry1905

French Cleats - Cool Idea

I like the creativity with the French Cleats.  The link to Home Depot was most helpful.

Does their utilization create a gap?  Looks to me like there could a about a 1/2 inch gap.

Thank you for posting.

Charles Malinowski Carmel, IN

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Ken Rice

Clever idea

Using the french cleats for the drop in there is a clever idea!

Reply 0
UglyK5

Get your cleats on

Hi Ken and Charles

Thx for the comments!  

Charles yes there is a gap between the butt plates due to the cleat. See pic below sorry I couldn’t rotate it. I’m going to add some 1/4” to 3/8” wood stock over the top of the male side of the cleat on the flat side of the end plate (lift out side of the Union) so there is hard surface to epoxy the rails to, then sand it flush with the belt sander.  The end plates are 1/2” ply

honestly I don’t know how the french cleat will hold up as far as maintaining vertical tolerance but we will find out

Jeff

309AE34.jpeg 

—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
Reply 0
UglyK5

Yard track laying underway

Glued and nailed a 1/4” wood lip on the lift out section ends to support the track ends at the joints and also started laying the 5 track yard. Gotta love getting some track down!

 

Original plan was a fairly simple straight yard with one entry but as the track went down another option presented itself: cut a pass through door on the engine house back wall, add a turnout to track 1 (numbered from front edge), and connect the yard directly to the back of the engine house. Track 2 will have an escape switchback to track 1 so arriving road engine can reverse through engine house, top off fuel etc, and run around to top of yard lead for next outbound train running long hood forward. Adding a switcher pocket across the lead from the engine house would be convenient too and would accommodate max 7-8 car trains (that’s about the max train the rest of the layout can handle too). 

 

Any other creative thoughts?

Thx

Jeff

 

DF26772.jpeg 

 

 

 
 
—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
Reply 0
UglyK5

Track laying complete

Yard track laying is completed (except engine house outlet... put a turnout in for it but still considering if I want to do that).  Track alignment at the 5 track joint is consistent and repeatable with no fiddling required when placing the lift out section in.  So far the french cleat is a success. 

Next up run wiring bus, solder rail joints and feeders.

 

F99B958.jpeg 

D6D8CE6.jpeg 

—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
Reply 0
UglyK5

​Liftout section wiring

​Liftout section wiring completed!  

Gawd I hate soldering  but it’s all working properly  

1A26E09.jpeg 

Had to take the opportunity to get the fleet out for pics

this yard is going to add a lot to ops!

252C928.jpeg 

386A051.jpeg 

Jeff

—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
Reply 0
dapenguin

Latch Handle

Were did you find that handle and who made it?

Quote:

First the attic door doorknob had to be replaced with a low profile latch handle Since the knob stuck out too far and was right at layout height. 

TC Carr
Malheur, Kopperton & Tejas * Sn3½ in 1923
(the I don't know yet) * Sn2 "Gilpin in Idaho"
​Anaconda, Oregon & Pacific * S Scale Heavy Electric
My Blog Index

Reply 0
UglyK5

Latch source

Hi TC.

i got it on Amazon:

Stainless Steel 304 Corridor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPZ42KT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

it has held up very well over the 3+ years it’s been in service  

jeff

—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
Reply 0
dapenguin

Thanks Jeff

I have a door that opens against a closet door.  Those look like just the ticket.

 

TC Carr
Malheur, Kopperton & Tejas * Sn3½ in 1923
(the I don't know yet) * Sn2 "Gilpin in Idaho"
​Anaconda, Oregon & Pacific * S Scale Heavy Electric
My Blog Index

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