The Kit Parts

This kit is more like a kit bash.  It includes two Tichy tank frames, and Intermountain tank kit, some styrene, some wire, some grabs, some resin cast parts, Tichy brake set, some decals.....

Filling Holes

The first step is to fill all the holes in the tank with styrene as new grabs and hand rails will be added to match the prototype.  Apparently there are several ways to do this.  I used some calipers and measured the size of a round piece of styrene that would just barely not go through the hole.  Then I used a drill bit to drill out the hole just a few thousandths larger than the styrene piece, the glued it in the very snug hole.  

I also glued some weight in the form of nuts in the tank bottom. The picture below shows the plugs now glued in all of the holes.  

Tank Frame

The frame for the tank car has to be a little longer.  Therefore, two Tichy frames are cut and glued together.  The directions give excellent steps on how to accomplish this. 

The picture below shows the modified frame after assembly.  The tank saddles are resin castings.  Several parts were cut off of the side of the frame, and part of the raised moldings on top were removed as well, along with part of the frame above the couplers.  

The picture below shows the underside.  Styrene was added as fillers on the ends and I marked the ends to help me remember which is which.  This also shows the cast resin ends and sides that were glued on as well. I drilled and tapped the frame for 2-56 screws for the couplers and trucks. 

Stuff to build the kit

Someone who knew I was building this kit asked what was required so I sent them this picture.  Going counter clockwise I have a 3 ring binder with clear sheet holders organizing my styrene and wood strips, A box lid that holds the parts when its not on my kitchen table, a little plastic caddie that holds drills, screw drivers, knives, drill bits, cutters, tweezers, glue, etc.., a rubber mat, the instructions, a paper plate that acts as my super glue palate, and a sanding board where I glued down two different grits of sand paper to sand the backs of the resin castings.   

Sanding...

This view shows the tank car after sanding.  I used a knife to trim the styrene rod, and then also shaved off the molded on tank bands as new ones will be formed.  I then used some 220 grit paper to remove the rest of the contours making sure to stay away from the rivets.  The rivets need to stay.  I then used some 500 wet dry sand paper to smooth out what was left.  It feels smooth, I guess the primer coat will really tell for sure.  Oh, and the tank dome bottom was sanded to get it to sit down more closer to the body as well to match the prototype.  Again, the kit instructions are really good about explaining what is going on.  

Just another view. 

Bottom view. 

Grabs

Grabs are next.  New holes were drilled on the tanks for the curved grab irons.  Then grabs were added to the tank frame, eight in total, around the sill ends.  

A new grab iron was also installed on the dome using pictures as a guide.  Doesn't it look like its happy!

Cool, a build is happening

very nice step by step tank car build your creating, I will be following

Surprised to see the kit

Surprised to see the kit contents as more of a kit bash as you say. Not yet built any resin kits but working my way through several tichy 6 packs at the moment. Looks like a fun kit to build.

Very keen to see the painting steps you take as i have 6 tichy UTLX tanks on my bench at the moment.

more...

@Batey - I think most of the Speedwhich kits tend to be this way.  Add a few resin castings and some other kit parts to create a model that is unique.  It is neat to see how someone thought through how to convert commercially available parts to create this model.  

In the above photo the stirrup steps have been installed as well as the running boards on both sides.  The running boards are cast resin parts.  Since there is only a platform on one side, the other running board got filled with styrene and sanded smooth.  

Bottom view.  I did label the "sides" so I would get parts in the right place. 

Walkway supports

The Walkway supports have been glued in. 

Speedwhich Tank Car

I hadn't heard of Speedwhich, but have bookmarked the site. The prices aren't for the faint-of-heart, are they? I'm about at the stage of my hobby career where I'm considering scratch building rolling stock, and this build offers relevant tips and techniques. 

I see you're a paper-plate person. I have a plate for every project (glue, small parts, general catch-all), and when the stack of plates prevents the work surface from sliding under the desk, it's time to finish some projects.  

brake parts

I'm a paper plate person and proud of it!  Great minds think alike!

The brake parts have now been installed. They are from the Tichy sprue.  I drilled holes in them for the wire that will simulate the brake lines.  Oh, and yes, I have just realized that I haven't put in the brake train line yet.  So that will be next, then the rest of the piping.  

How about them pipes?

I've installed the piping between the brake parts as well as the brake levers and rods.  Someday I will attempt the super model, but for this model, I've just glued the rods to the brake levers.  I really enjoy the brake details, especially on tank cars as its so visible.  

Question -

Question - I purchased some hypodermic needle tubing as per the instructions to help join the new handrails for the tank that I will form from brass wire.  How do I cut hypodermic tubing? 

Thoughts?

more work

I have installed the coupler cut levers as seen in the picture below.  It involved an etched brass part and an eye bolt and some bent wire. 

Next, I installed the tank platform.  The Tichy kit platform was shortened on each end, a grab iron added, and then glued in place with the TIchy tank platform brackets. 

New Tank Bands

New tank bands have been installed.  The strapping is 1" by 4" styrene strip about 15' long with round styrene glued to the ends.  Holes were drilled in the bolster and everything glued in place. 

Progress - handrails

Progress - I have managed to get the handrails installed.  I took the "easier" way out if there is such a thing.  The brass handrail stanchions were drilled with a #77 bit for the 0.015 brass wire, then  #75 holes were drilled 3'3" up from the platform and the stanchions glued in place.  The curved end handrail was bent for both ends and then joined together with pieces of hypodermic needle tubing as described by the instructions.  I used a cutoff disk in a Dremel tool and then filed the ends and used a needle to make sure the ends were open for the brass wire.  You can see the silver tubing over the brass handrails in the photos.  It will be interesting to see how much they disappear once the model is painted.  The other method was to make a one piece handrail and glue it all in at the same time.  And yes, I still need to trim the rungs of the ladder. 

I feel like this was the hardest step of the build.  I only have a washout plug, brake wheel, and the air hoses left to install. 

Finished - Except for paint

I've finished the model by adding the washout plug on the "A" end, adding the brake wheel, and adding the air hoses.  Will have to wait till the spring to paint as I don't have a paint booth in the house. 

update...

I've removed the couplers and trucks and mounted it in my painting jig.  This makes it easy to get paint all the way around it.  I washed it well and let it dry and then painted it with an automotive gray primer from a spray can. 

After this was dry I spray bombed with a gloss white from a small can of Testors gloss white that I bought from Hobby Lobby.  I forgot to take a picture of it.  I then masked off with blue tape to cover the white so that I then could spray the black.  

The above picture is after I have sprayed the black paint.  It is from Tru-Color.  You can see the blue painters tape that I used to mask the white area.  I removed the tape pretty quickly after I sprayed the black.  The picture below shows the good side. 

The masking seems to have worked pretty well and very little black paint crept to where it shouldn't have been.  I did a good job of removing the tape on this side, the other side is a different story.  I ran small strips of blue tape under the tank straps and in the excitement of removing the tape on the other side broke the tank straps which can be seen in the two pictures below. 

The next step then will be to try and glue the straps back into place.  There is a little finish painting left as the ladder and handrail need be painted black as well.  Then it will be decal time!

Speedwitch Media

The correct spelling of the vendor's name is Speedwitch Media. It might be good to correct this in the subject so that future searches find this thread. They're at http://speedwitchmedia.com/. The Staley tank car is at: http://speedwitchmedia.com/product/k122-2-pressed-steel-car-company-tank-car-a-e-staley/

Enjoy watching builds like

Enjoy watching builds like this. The handrail joint is an interesting idea. Im working on a bulk pack of Tichy Tanks at the moment. A small point of frustration is the plastic stanchions and handrail. out of the twi i have progressed to that point so far both i have ended up breaking the one piece end cast.

Do you know who makes the brass stanchions used here and also that etched cut lever bracket?

Replies

Hey,

Sorry, no idea who makes those.  

Doug

finished

I've painted and added decals to the Staley tank car. 

This is certainly one of the most challenging kits but yet the most satisfying kits that I have put together.  I think the handrail maybe could have gone a little higher to give a little more room for the decals, but overall I'm very pleased with how it turned out.  

Tank car kits

Because of their design and visible fine details, tank car kits are challenging. Much of the work is basic small parts assembly that is more tedious than difficult. Your finished model looks great, Doug!

Eric