kaitlin4599

ok so i was recently gifted a bunch of 80's n scale tracks and engines. its the old track without the plastic road bed underneath. the pic below is a sample image of what my track looks like. ok so heres my question

i live in a tiny 380 square feet studio apartment with very little room so goibg with a plywood base would not be possible because i need to be able to move the track when not in use or when i use the space.

so i was thinking of using some foam insulation board since #1 the trains are very light compaired to HO, and #2 its easy to move if the misses needs the space.

so 2 questions 

#1 what type of foam board would i use can i use several layers of elmers foam board? the cheaper the better im tight on funds

#2 since i cant use nails to secure the track down what do i use for adhesive?

lastly if i choose not to use adhesive since the track has holes for small nails what can i use to secure the track to the foam so it doesnt move when being used by trains sorry im rather new at this hobby

Reply 0
Nick Santo amsnick

Two thoughts...

Hi Kaitlin,

A post within the last 3 months discussed the densities of foam available.  There were three.  The most dense and hence most expensive was the choice if I remember correctly.  Stability was the reason for choosing the densest.  I’d try searching the above right for the post.

You may want to consider placing cork roadbed on the foam with an adhesive and then trying the nails.  Intuitively, I’d be more tempted to glue the track to the cork if I wasn’t going to add ballast.  If I was going to ballast with glue soon after laying the track I would consider using nails.  My concern is that the foam wouldn’t hold the nails well and the nails would go into the void between the two sides of cork roadbed.  Both of the later causing poor stability with respect to your proposed use to storage cycling.  Gluing and adhesives should also show up in a search.  If I remember correctly one of the adhesives was a DAP product that comes in a tube.  There are a number of other tube packaged adhesives that are appropriate also.

Good luck and have fun!

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.

Reply 0
musgrovejb

Suggestions

First I would not recommend multiple layers of elmers foam board.  “You need solid and stable base.”

I am assuming you are not looking at taking the track up but being able to move the base with the track attached?

If that is the case I would go with 2-inch foam insulation board and glue the track using a “foam safe” glue.  DAP, Locktite, Gorilla glue brands all have lines that are safe for foam (Information on lable)

Before you glue the track I would recommend laying the track down first and “testing” everything to make sure it works.

Keep us posted!

Joe

Modeling Missouri Pacific Railroad's Central Division, Fort Smith, Arkansas

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLENIMVXBDQCrKbhMvsed6kBC8p40GwtxQ

 

Reply 0
chris.mincemoyer

What type of layout?

Do plan on doing a switching layout or a layout with a loop of track?

Chris

Reply 0
kaitlin4599

chris i plan to do an oval

chris i plan to do an oval with switching inside for my factories that will be inside the oval so oval outside yard inside

Reply 0
Jim at BSME

Suggestions

I would take a look at this layout from a past issue of MRH:  http://mrhpub.com/2013-05-may/land/files/assets/basic-html/index.html#page105, it is 2x4 N-scale layout and I think meets your need for portability. Of course you might consider building it into a coffee table then you have dual use, the layout under glass, and it might force you to keep the top clean to be able to see the trains!

Other options are a shelf type layout, that you could run back and forth a 6 inch by 8 foot is a lot of space in n-scale.

You might want to use the search box in the top right for n-scale layouts for ideas.

One other thought is foam core roadbed/layout:  https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/foamcore-benchwork-using-foamcore-beams-12209542

- Jim B.
Baltimore Society of Model Engineers, Estd. 1932
O & HO Scale model railroading
Check out BSME on: FacebookInstagram
Reply 0
kaitlin4599

jim i ended up going with 2x4

jim i ended up going with 2x4 MDF i know not the best but at least its sturdy wood

 

Reply 0
Jim at BSME

Another thought

Don't know why I didn't mention this before, depending on where you live there might be a club or modular organization nearby you can join and get your train fix that way.

MDF is a solid base but can get heavy though. Depending on your track plan you may consider a simple frame from 1x4s and then only have the MDF under the track for stability.

- Jim B.
Baltimore Society of Model Engineers, Estd. 1932
O & HO Scale model railroading
Check out BSME on: FacebookInstagram
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