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Connecting modules, and yard layout... Dream and design
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Super User 1,140 posts UglyK5 Super User 1,140 posts
UglyK5

Hi all,

I’m designing the track layout for an extension to an existing shelf layout and looking for opinions and ideas. 

There will be a 12” x 60” yard module (built and ready for track) connected to the existing layout via an approximately 42-48” long removable section spanning across an attic knee wall door that requires occasional access. Initial plan was to have a very simple single track on the connector, or perhaps single with a runaround, to a 4 track yard on the 60” module (design B below). This could be a very narrow connector module and fairly easily removed, with only bus spade wiring connectors underneath and small sectional track on each end of the module to remove and realign later. (All the other modules all are linked by short sectional track pieces, with quick clamps underneath holding the modules together. It’s been pretty effective). However this puts the complete 3  turnout yard ladder on the 60” module which won’t leave much yard trackage. I use Peco small radius turnouts everywhere else with no problems including running an SD40 but they still chew up a lot of run. 

Alternatively I could put the ladder on the connector (design A shown). More yard length is great but this violates one of my key design principles which is: Thou shalt have only one track shall span between each module. Having to build with high precision is doable but then having to realign 4 tracks with small sectional track pieces every time Mrs. K5 needs a holiday decoration from the attic sounds like a pain in the butt. 

Overall I never developed a great module to module track connection system so maybe this will force it. The modules themselves are 1” foam over Masonite over steel studs sitting on shelf brackets. There are no hard end plates on the modules. 

One solution could be gluing the 4 short sectional pieces to a 3”x12” strip of styrene to help align all 4 but that still seems clunky. 

The 2 options are sketched with extraordinary precision below for reference. There is a decent lead track on existing layout even for option A. 

Your thoughts on layout and connection/alignment methods?

Thx

Jeff

1D3AB2F.jpeg 

 
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“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
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UglyK5 Super User 1,140 posts
UglyK5

Existing situation

The extension will be past the unfinished engine service module On the right of this pic

3320359.jpeg 
—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
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David Husman dave1905 MRH Author 9,887 posts
David Husman dave1905

Longer connecting tracks

Just use a 9" piece of sectional track to connect in the yard.  5000 HO modules can't be wrong.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

Blog index:  Dave Husman Blog Index
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UglyK5 Super User 1,140 posts
UglyK5

Dave thanks... I was fixed on

Dave thanks... I was fixed on minimizing the patch track length but longer tracks makes sense to smooth out any transition issues 

jeff

 
—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
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Moe line Frequent poster 631 posts
Moe line

Nine Inch

As Dave mentioned, the 9 inch standard drop in track is the best way to span the module joints when there isn't any permanent connection between the modules. My cam locked modules are designed for the tracks to but up to each other, but even then it is possible to damage the tracks when they are right up to the edge of the module ends, if the modules get knocked around during assembly or removal. My modular club with a portable layout uses the 9 inch drop ins between modules that are not bolted or otherwise fastened together to each other, and it works out fine.
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UglyK5 Super User 1,140 posts
UglyK5

Thanks Moe Track right to the

Thanks Moe

Track right to the edge sounded too risky for me but if one is careful it could work

will try the 9” sections. Plan was to lightly scenic the yard with ballast and ground cover so still need to refine a way to do that without having obvious seams. Reminds me of the MRH article on hiding seams on structures, except horizontal!

jeff
—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
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TwinStar Active Member 53 posts
TwinStar

No 9" Track

Please, let's let the horrific 9" drop in track die the death that it needs to. There are far, far better way to span a module gap. GapMaster make a great PC tie bed that can be used to secure the rail on a butt joint between modules. If you want any sort of a 'span' you can incorporate the Free-mo style bridge rails. Either method will at a minimum leave the ties and ballast secured. 
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UglyK5 Super User 1,140 posts
UglyK5

Twin star I will check those

Twin star I will check those options out. If you have good info/links to share that would be appreciated. 4x splice tracks sounded ugly but the best bad alternative. 

Thx!

Jeff
—————————————
“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
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Wazzzy Regular poster 228 posts
Wazzzy

If the modules can be

If the modules can be assembled and locked into the desired location each and every time, the option to cut the rails flush with the module's end and have complete scenery (ballast) is viable.

This topic covers several techniques that the average modeler can accomplish. Some modelers have the fore thought to question the durability of the rails to maintain their desired location or being bent out of position with handling.

To help prevent the rails being damaged during normal handling, could an end plate be fastened to the end of the module after it is separated from the layout proper? A basic 1/8" Masonite "transportation" end plate with holes drilled where the rails protrude could provide the protection from damage.

Alan Loizeaux

CEO  Empire Trackworks   (Empire-Trackworks.com)

Modeling ON30 DRG

Husband, Father, Grandpa, Retired Military, Conductor / Yard Master Norfolk Southern, custom track work builder (S, SN3, On3, On30 & others)
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UglyK5 Super User 1,140 posts
UglyK5

Hey Wazzy I just ordered some

Hey Wazzy I just ordered some table pins and table locks to help with consistent alignment. With only 2 modules the quick clamps was ok but I have 3 now and going to 5 soon so need something more robust and repeatable. This may enable track to edge. These modules don’t need to be super highly portable for traveling to shows and whatnot, but having them fairly easily movable helps a lot for building, wiring, etc and long term I want them to be movable if needed. 
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“Think before you post, try to be positive, and you do not always have to give your opinion.....”
-Bessemer Bob
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TwinStar Active Member 53 posts
TwinStar

GapMaster

GapMaster Ties

http://www.americantieandtimber.com/

The best alignment pins I've come across

https://www.dccconcepts.com/product-category/track-and-track-making-parts/baseboard-alignment-dowels/
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