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ADVICE for weathering

Eduardo,

 Awesome to see you interested in weathering. Just so you know, most realistic weathering is not done using an airbrush...so do not be discouraged! I learned most techniques to weather from a website I am now a member of, "The Weathering Shop". There are many tutorials on many types of weathering and it's all free! You will find that there are many types of mediums to use: oils, acrylics, powders and gouache. They all have their advantages and disadvantages. Most of my weathering projects use multiple mediums as none can do it all. A HUGE part of realistic weathering is to use a photo(s) of an actual prototype to go by. Study it and the colors well before you start in order to make a plan of which to apply first and second and so forth. Check out "The Weathering Shop" and it's forum "The Rustbucket" (where the tutorials are) and get to work!

Nick Campbell

Less is more

Less weathering is usually better than more weathering.  Learning the lighter touch can be difficult.  It is also important to look at the direction of the weathering.  Water runs down, so weathering caused by water will be vertical from the top, while dust will be up from the bottom.

It takes practice to learn techniques and try many different techniques.

Pratice and Examples.

You have taken your first steps by actually showing an interest and making an effort!

My adivice:

1. Weather based on real world examples.  

2. Read up on the different techniques. (Nick is right, you don’t have to use an airbrush, it’s just one of several options) 

3. Give it a try!  Remember, like anything it takes experience and practice to improve.  If you have an old junk locomotive and rolling stock, these make great “practice” subjects.

Joe

Mike Confalone

Has a great series on Trainmasters TV for weathering without an airbrush - he uses mostly Pan Pastels and artist oils.  It's worth getting even a month subscription to TMTV just to watch Mike's videos.

As Nick said, the Rustbucket forum is also a great place to learn techniques, just don't be overwhelmed by the incredible work you'll see.  With some practice (done cheaply on older rolling stock), you'll get the hang of it.  Subtlety is the key unless you really want to do a rustbucket (which isn't the norm in the real world).

Don't over-do it. Nothing dramatic

Don't over-do it. Nothing dramatic. Subtle is better than dramatic.Don't use other people's models as you subject to work from. Work from prototype photos, not model photos.

I weathered this Accurail boxcar using washes of acrylic paints. I do not like working with powders and chalks. Put it on wet then wipe it off with a small, fine sponge or cotton swabs. Wipe in a downward motion. Let dry. Afterward you can use paint brushes to add smaller effects of weathering. When complete, overspray with Dullcoat.

This ACL covered hopper is what I see as heavily weathered. Again, it was first weathered using acrylic washes. I then sprayed on a thin grimy color up into the ends and onto the trucks and lower areas. Again, nothing dramatic. By using thinned weathering paint you can build it up a little at a time.

Not overdoing it

Yes, subtle weathering tends to look more realistic. As a reference, see my two-part series on minimalist weathering in the Sep & Oct 2017 issues of MRH magazine.

Prototype reference photos:

Exactly Joe, subtle is the key

Subtle weathering is the key. With the prototype, most freight cars are NOT weathered like they are near end of life, yet it seems that many modelers tend to over-weather most everything. Yes, there are prototype freight cars that look that way, but they are minority of the nation's fleet. I live alongside the NS mainline between Chicago and Toledo (former CR, PC, NYC) where well over a hundred trains pass every day. I see lots of trains, hence freight cars and few are weathered to the extent that our hobby does.

That is the one thing I would

That is the one thing I would add. The degree of weathering reflects the age and type of service the car is in. A newer car would have mostly dust verses ten years later rust starts appearing in the cracks. Near the end of its useful life it would look severely weathered. A mow car is usually such an example.

The other thing about weathering is that it indicates the general economic status of a railroad. Railroading is capital intensive. A profitable railroad would maintain its cars in decent shape. Repairs would be make when a problem is noted. They would wash and repaint cars that looked haggard. 

A railroad on its last leg financially would not spend good money on for appearances sake. They would defer maintenance until the end, sometimes ending operations when the last locomotive broke down and they couldn’t afford to fix it. 

Short lines and narrow gauge railroads often fell into the second camp. Especially from 1920-1940’s most short lines went out of business. That is an example of appropriate heavy weathering. Although if you are using a class 1’s cars those would still be maintained by their owner. 

Even today we can get a general financial overview of company behind that owns the car by looking at the condition of railroad cars. 

Weathering

​The service has as much to do as age.

​Make sure the weathering reflects the age of the cars relative to the era you are modeling.  One person commented that some of my wood cars looked brand new, expecting that a wood car would be heavily weathered. Since I am modeling 1900-1905, a car built in 1901 would be a brand new car.

​A 20 year old wood car could look brand new when compared to a 20 year old steel car.  Why?  Because a wood car has to be rebuilt more often and chances are, after 20-25 years they will have rebuilt the superstructure of the car, a steel car might have the same superstructure its entire life.

​Along the same lines, the paint scheme might make a difference.  If you are modeling 1975, a BN 40 ft boxcar might be brand new, while a CB&Q boxcar of the same vintage would be rusted.    Similarly an old CRIP boxcar might be rusty while a baby blue ROCK boxcar would be positively shiny.

​MofW cars can be beat up..... or not.  The cars associated with a wrecker might be the oldest cars on the railroad, but they will be in tip top shape.  A purpose built MofW car would look no worse than a typical general service car of the same age, and might even look better because it would have been in a relatively restricted service.

​Also look at the prototype, there are pattern that are unique to different models and paint schemes.  If you are modeling a MP GP15, the top of the short hood and cab roof will be rusted no matter how old it is.  A very rarely modeled diesel effect is that the fireman's side of the short hood almost always has a clean, shiny patch about  3-4 ft above the end platform, up the stairs and into the cab.

There's also the road practices

There's also the practices of the prototype road.

The Santa Fe kept their road power pretty clean for the most part. I had to really dig to find this dirty Santa Fe warbonnet:

 Original image here:  http://www.railpictures.net/images/d2/7/6/1/3761.1426628014.jpg

Meanwhile, other roads like the SP, were well-known for letting their power get extremely grungy ...

Structures

That also applies to facilities.  The MP/UP would pressure wash the service track ramps each night.  SP/SSW didn't look like as much.

+1 for Mike Confalone Videos

They are excellent and makes it look so easy. Give them a go.

Don't overdo it.

yes, subtle is the best...

Weathering advice

Eduardo, the good news is that you can buy a bottle of isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) at any drug store and most supermarkets.

Wash this on your GP-18, let it soak a bit, rub it off, and it will remove as much of the weathering as you wish.  You can practice different kinds of weathering on the same car body until you are happy.

Isopropyl alcohol comes in 70% strength and 91% strength.  The 91% works faster and costs a bit more, but you can dilute it with water if you wish.

Beautiful work Michael from

Beautiful work Michael from Sweden.  

Thanks for your time

Thanks for all your comments, I will continue practicing and try subtle for my freight cars

Eduardo

I am fairly new to weathering...

...and found I love Pan Pastels. Below is an example of a Red Caboise flatcar I just finished. The deck was done by painting with white craft paint followed by a wash of black and then various Alan Pastels. The trucks were painted with Krylon Matt Black and the the whole car has a coat of Model Masters Lusterless flat and more Pan Pastels. This is an old car in my modeling timeframe so the weathering is heavy. Other cars which would be newer I just use the flat spray with a light dusting of pastels and paint the trucks.

Just keep doing it over and over

Remove the paint, repaint white and weather.  Take pictures and post with an explanation of what you were trying to do. Repeat till you get something that looks OK.  Repeat with another color - black.  Follow the advice of the people who posted to your thread.  They are all experts.  Just keep doing it over and over.

Mike Lee

Weathering Update

I found another old car to practice!!!!

 This time I use chalks and acrylic washes.......  also I try to create a load with foam, and woodland scenics products

I could found a real picture......  but I will continue practicing

Eduardo

Eduardo - Yellow is difficult to weather

I see that you are using a yellow hopper car as you weathering subject. I urge you to learn to weather with freight cars that are boxcar red, PC green, or even black. These colors are much easier to weather in a realistic way. I personally have found yellow to be one of the most difficult colors to weather.

That said, many freight cars we need for our layouts may be yellow. Save them for after you feel proficient with your weathering.

Accurail model

Variations of oxide are great for weathering. This is one of the reasons that I model the Pennsy. When weathering you may want to consider sanding off some of the lettering to represent fading and wear.

Bowser model