Hi Deemiorgos,

What brand of decals are you using? I have worked with Micro Scale and Highball graphics. Each has their own little "quirks" as far as application. Are you applying them to a flat, smooth surface or an uneven one like the caboose? Are you applying a layer of gloss coat before applying the decal? I use Pledge floor finish on the surface before the decal. I usually run into problems with tears or distortion if the decal is setting and drying out as I'm moving it. Also, I use Micro Sol and Micro Set to help too.

If your refering to distortion in the photo of the decal on the caboose, I don't see any.

Terry

Terry, I'm using Black Cat

Terry,

I'm using Black Cat Publishing Decals. I'm applying it too the factory paint finish on the caboose, which I dulled a tad due to removing the previous stamp that was on it. I sued Micro Sol setting solution that softens the decal to conform to irregular surfaces.

The distortion is above the SE in "Serves" - the line above it dipped i.e., the box aroung the lettering got distorted.

Surface prep and Mico Set

I always try to purchase at least a couple of sets of decals, just in case, or sometimes I have to cut them up for really irregular cars, like rib sided cars.

Number one thing for me is making sure the surface is glossy and clean, any fuz or oil or dirt will either get trapped or not alllow the decal to sit properly.

I always use a both Micro Set and Micro sol to set decals. Regardless of the surface I find the Micro Set lets it adhere to the surface first. Then when you place the Micro Set it flows into the low areas. Going straight on with Mirco Sol I have see the decals get all wavy and disentegrate.

I also try to no matter how weird the decal looks when it is going on let it dry before messing with it. I have attempted to fix decals with Micro Sol on them and I destroyed them. Did it again with Mirco Set and Micro Sol and it was perfect. No touching things somethimes is the best way.

Dee

Did you apply to a slightly dull surface or did I misunderstand. If so, your decal is probably gripping the surface and distorting as the setting solution is stretching it. Try putting a gloss coat on the area first. I use Future liquid floor wax and it works well. Be aware that I’m mainly using decals for patch jobs and graffiti so straight lines aren’t real important to me..........so I’m not much of an authority.

To my eye, since it is a wood

To my eye, since it is a wood caboose, the irregularities look good. Add some weathering and call it good. 

Yes, Rick, I applied to a

Yes, Rick, I applied to a slighly dull surface. It got that way because I erased off the printed leaf, which was incorrect for the caboose.

Im wondering if this would work (it's quite yellow for some reason perhaps because it is real old?)

or should I just airbrush a thin coat of gloss that matches the rest of the caboose.

I was thinking of that, Tim.

I was thinking of that, Tim. Weathering would be an option.

That's what I did with this other caboose,

which I had no problem with the decal applied to a dull surface, but it was a different brand of decal.

Greg, the lack of having the

Greg, the lack of having the surface glossy is obvious to me now.

So Micro Sol and Micro Set are two different solutions. That would be another thing I overlooked, as I used this for setting solution to prewet the area:

For dull finishes

  you can just apply a thin layer of Future then place the decal on the wet Future and smooth it out and then let it dry.The Future will seal up any microscopic voids under the decal and eliminate any whitening due to a dull paint job. Future used this way only  works well on flat surfaces, if the decal has to go over ribs or rivets it's better to gloss coat the area then let the gloss coat  dry ,then apply the decal normally and use decal setting solution to soften it so it will conform to the raised features (Future will not soften decals)The trick is to not use a strong setting solution initially, use micro set or thin down solvaset with water for the initial application then use the stronger stuff after the decal is in place and set up. I try to place the decal and blot it within a few seconds then leave it alone as it dries to avoid distorting it. I find sharp tweezers work best for placing and adjusting a decal's position, they allow more accurate placement  than a paint brush.For a whole car job I cut all the decals and place them in a small box then starting with the largest place 1 st one in water for a few seconds, then move it onto a small plate with a drop of water surrounding it and keep checking it till it starts to slide, when it's  loose enough I pick it up with the tweezers, slide it off onto the car side, get an initial placement, drop the next decal into the water,readjust the 1st decal if needed , set the 2nd decal on the plate, check the 1 st one once more then apply the second, continuing this pattern till the car is finished......DaveB

Lots of Good Advice

Deemiorgos - Seems like you have several options available to try and make your decal application process better. I have never worked with Micro Gloss, so I can't say yea or nay. I use an airbrush to apply Pledge (Future) Floor Finish to the area. I'm not looking for the "gloss", I'm looking for the "smooth". Pledge is self-leveling, so you should get a nice surface to mount the decals. I've heard of some people using a brush to apply the Pledge, so it's a personal preference as to what suits you. I don't think it matters which "gloss" you use, as long as it's a smooth surface for the decal. I've also heard that some people use the Pledge in place of the Micro Set.

And.....after the decal has dried for a day, I apply a layer of Pledge over top to seal it before applying dullcoat.

Let us know how it works out. Thanks for replying to everyone's suggestions.

edit: DaveB posted as I was typing 

Terry

it's like politics

Gloss surfaces...

Hey Dee,

You definitely need gloss surfaces in order not to have problems. Even then, with some decals, the going might get tough. Microset and water helps a lot. I tend to apply it on the surface before decalling. If a decal does not want to move around on the surface in order to be positioned correctly then i add more water and/or microset onto the surface/decal. Using tweezers/toothpick i try sometimes to lift the edge of the decal enough for some water/microset to get underneath it.

Toothpicks and cotton swabs help a lot in order to push/pull the decal around.

If i overdo it (and i do in order not to have problems) with microset/water, then when the decal is in place, i remove the excess solution from around the decal using cotton swabs. When it has dried up a bit, i apply microsol.

DaveB, The error I made was

DaveB,

The error I made was using Micro Sol instead of Micro Set to prewet the surface plus not having a gloss surface.

The surface has no raised detail, but has fine groves that depict were the boards join.

Yannis, I'd like to apply a

Yannis,

I'd like to apply a nice thin coat of gloss on the area with my airbrush. I think the brass model caboose has a laquer based gloss on it so can I put an acrylic gloss on the area where I rubbed it off? The area originaly has a printed herald on it that I rubbed off.

I made the error of using a brush to position the decal when it was on the model so next time I'll use was you mentioned.

Scott, I made the error of

Scott,

I made the error of using the red label, as I didn't even know that the blue label existed. I also had some puddling on the decal. I'm certainly an amateur at this. It amazes me that some of my past decaling worked and held up; must be luck.

With everyone's help here,

With everyone's help here, I'm more confident now.

Just have to wait for the decals I ordered to come in the mail.

For now, the caboose will live on the shelf.

I'm sure it won't be difficult to remove the decal when the time comes to replace it.

All your help is very much appreciated.

Gloss coat

Do you need a gloss final finish? If yes then i would go with a satin coat or even matt, and buff it to a glossier final finish. I prefer this in order to have a more "in-scale" gloss finish.

Acrylic is fine, although i have also used lacquer top coats. The only trouble is that you have to be VERY light when applying it using many light coats. A heavy initial wet-coat can easily destroy decals/paint (ask me how i know ).

Removing the Decal

Dee - you may be able to remove the decal by placing a piece of facial tissue or toilet tissue over the decal, wetting the paper with MicroSol. Leave the wet tissue paper sit for a few seconds/minutes on top of the decal and it might peel off. There's a video on Athearn's youtube channel showing how this works.

Caution - some decals won't be removed with this method, but it's worth a shot.

Terry

"The error I made was using

   Hi Dee. Sounds like it will go better next time.  For those board grooves I'd apply the decal with micro set and let it dry ,then take a razor blade or sharp exacto knife and slit the decal down each board seam ,then apply some micro sol and let the decal snuggle down into the grooves.....DaveB

Great idea DaveB.

Great idea DaveB.

Water

Hi,

When I put decals on a model I use distilled water..........when the decal goes on the model I use curved tweezers and add a drop or two of water so that the decal does not stick...........it acts as a lubricant until I have the decal set where I want it..........them I use a cotton swab to soak up any excess water.

After that I'll use Solvaset to set the decal.

Hi BRThanks, I'll keep that

Hi BR

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Ages ago I used water, but not distilled water.

using Micro Sol instead of Micro Set ...

This is what stops me from using Either product... confusion over proper sequence.

A solvent is usually used before applying the product... Not Here!

Setting a product (think concrete) makes it Durable.... Not Here!

A simple labelling change could resolve this... but Micro-sol insists on fine print on the bottle instead of a BRAND name definition.    Suggest: MicroSet1,  MicroSol2,   (Again, NOT Here!)

BTW, have you noticed that one of these smells like vinegar (Acetic acid)?   I use that (vinegar).

I have noticed the smell,

I have noticed that smell too, Peter.

So you use distilled water?