costin g

Hi,

I am looking for plastic rails in HO scale but so far all the searches yield only the usual tracks and other accidental results. Do you know if such a thing exists at least? And maybe of a brand / model / search keyword that could give me that?

The reason for them is that I want to add some guard rails on the bridges and maybe some rerailing sections on the track. I don't want to use the obvious solution of pieces of metail rails because I have a 3 rail system and I'm afraid of accidental contacts between the wheels and the central collector.

Do you have other practical considerations for a rerailing section? Like what the rail height should be (the same / taller / shorter than the main line), the angle of it, if the inner part is enough for mechanical purposes or I should also add something on the track side too? The plastic kits include these parts but I am curious if this is optional or actually needed.

Cheers,

.costin

Reply 0
Bill Brillinger

Brace yourself

Here you go...

http://www.protoloads.com/shop/ribbon-rail/

Bill Brillinger

Modeling the BNML in HO Scale, Admin for the RailPro User Group, and owner of Precision Design Co.

Reply 0
jeffshultz

Whoa.

Nearly a mile and a half of plastic rail in a box.

I guess if you aren't running a CWR train, you might want to combine with several people on that order.

orange70.jpg
Jeff Shultz - MRH Technical Assistant
DCC Features Matrix/My blog index
Modeling a fictional GWI shortline combining three separate areas into one freelance-ish railroad.

Reply 0
costin g

Didn't see this coming

@Bill Thanks a lot for the pointer! It looks perfect for my project. I'll try to google a bit with these keywords in search of smaller quantities. Or start a small club and supply it with plastic rails for the foreseeable future

Cheers,

.costin

 

Reply 0
peter-f

I've done it with flex-track

And I'm looking to see if my photos document it... can be done!

Mine is in a LOONG covered section... to reduce the headache of removing cars from under the scenery.  turns out my track -laying skills were better than I imagined.. .never had a derailment

(Doh!  Never say never!)

Conceptually it's simple... photos show schematically how it's done.

I removed the ties completely...  cut a handful of ties in half.... placed those back on the rail, ends to one side. 

Then I pre-drilled the center of the re-attached ties... spread them apart... and worked the uncut tie ends BETWEEN the ties of another length of flex-track.  

2 photos show:

  a) the underside of flex track with the ties reworked - one tie shown on guard rail.  The top and bottom rail are unmodified flex track,  the rail below the top one is added. 

Pro-b%20.jpg 

andb)  the finished product as I installed it.  (top view)

23_Pro-b.jpg 

- regards

Peter

Reply 0
costin g

So one side is enough

So one side is enough to bring the train back on rails?

The final result looks very realistic in any case, kudos for your trackwork!

For the record I found a local provider of plastic rails here, in smaller quantities. Searching by "styrene rail" did the trick. I'll experiment with it once it arrives, let's see if it can be integrated with my Marklin C track and still have the locos pass by them.

Cheers,

.costin

Reply 0
Bill Brillinger

Great Find!

I'm delighted you were able to find this product!

Bill Brillinger

Modeling the BNML in HO Scale, Admin for the RailPro User Group, and owner of Precision Design Co.

Reply 0
peter-f

@ Costing

Originally I was copying Delaware River Port Authority - they use one on elevated sections.

But as I said, my trackwork has not had derailments (10+ years!)

Still, if the ONE wheel and flange is trapped between rails, the other (outside the full-gauge track) will not wander.  And if the derailment occurs from the other side, the car may drift outward only a bit more than Half of the rail gauge.

If you desire, there's ample room to put guard rails on Both sides!  It would be a bit more challenge... the gaps between ties on the underside are not the same, and they don't move as easily on both rails. So you may feel more comfortable cutting out some of the web between ties under the rail with every-other-tie connections.

I'd suggest if you have a fear of derailments, add a polyethylene foam cushion on the wall(s) within your concealed trackage, so any cars have a cushion to slide against... thus, benchwork to rolling stock contact is near-impossible.

As far as my trackwork, it's flextrack, and I could have done a bit better!  But thanks!

- regards

Peter

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