jappe

Hi friends,

today an update on the engine shed (Pikestuff) and the tool shed (BLMA).

Afther the basecoat (Tamiya neutral grey FX-53) and final coat (Tamiya Sky XF-21) I brushpainted the details,... doors, downspouts etc. etc., with acrylics from model color (fast on the drying and easy to bring on).

Next I started weathering. For this job I only used 2 colors (artist oil paint) Lamp Black and Raw Umber. The usual formula, a little paint and alot of thinner ( in this case I used inodor white spirit, white spirit that hardly smells like white spirit). Dampen the structure(s)  first with some pure white spirit to brake the tention of the base coats. Don't worry, acrylics won't disovle with the white spirit. This is one of the advantages of using acrylics as basecoats. There is no exact formula to weather structures. Some like heavily weathered structures, some not. I just go by "the feel". What I do is to never use a pure color to weather. Always mixing (in this case Lamp black and Raw umber) and working in layers. Work your way around the structure with the weathering, have a brake and start again. Putting some more here and there. To much here? No problemo, just dampen a paintbrush (dampen, not wet) or a cotton swab and go over the spot. I usualy come back with some more weathering the next day, all depending if the first weathering is to my liking.

The pictures are taken without the drybrushing yet, but I am going to go very easy on the drybrushing here. Just the roofing of the engine shed had a hint of drybrushing at this stage. Still have to do the diesels engine gas outlet marks above the shed's entrance. (by drybrushing or airbrush, still have to decide here) The inside of the engine shed is also painted but here I didn't overdo it.  Just basic painting with some basic weathering since the inside never will be seen. (on the layout you just can see one side at an angle...if you almost brake your neck trying to, lol, so...)

The pics....

Engine shed....

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The tool shed (did my best to capture it, but for some reason the shed is photo  shy...)

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Still have to fine tune the tool shed a bit, but for 95% it's done.

Ok, that's it for now, next week I'll post some pictures of the sheds on the layout. Hope you enjoyed.

"I'll be back..."

Jappe

CEO, U.P.-Willamette Valley Sub aka U.P.-Eureka & Willamette Valley Branch

----------------------------------Ship it now, Ship it right---------------------------------------------

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Don't ride behind me, I will not lead you, don't ride in front of me, I will not follow you, just ride next to me and be my bro......

Reply 0
rfbranch

As always...I'm amazed

What can I say Jappe.  I sound like a broken record every time you post a structure but no one out there produces more realistic, convincing looking modern structures than you do.  That look is EXACTLY what I'm going for on one of my industries so I will be stealing more of your techniques again in the future

 

~rb

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~Rich

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Proto-Freelanced Carfloat Operation, Brooklyn, NY c.1974

Reply 0
Driline

Great Final Color

 What struck me was the final color. On my computer it looks like a dingy green. Great color for this building.

MODERATOR NOTE: We deleted your signature image because it was the Photobucket ransom image.

Reply 0
jappe

Final color....

thanks for the nice comments Rich (you are most welcome to steal,lol),  Driline (btw, nice sporty  you have there ).

Thing is when coloring (painting) I always think 2 steps ahead, meaning that for the base coat I try to find the lighter shade of  the final color to be obtained afther the weathering and drybrushing. So on the engine shed and tool shed I opted for Sky (Tamiya FX-21) (even lighter then cockpit green, used for the interior of the engine shed). By weathering you infact wet the final color for starters. Wet colors, darken and since we brake the tention of the surface with a first pass of spirits this already tends to darken the color. The more you apply "weathering" the more your final color darkens. Also there is a difference between weathering and shading or even pre-shading (panneling for the armor guys). But in Ho-scale I prefere sticking with weathering and drybrushing techniques since if I would add a pre-shading technique the building would look to hard in overal appereance. (a caricature infact).

Also when using aritist oilpaints to weather you always have to exagerate, since oil paints tend to fade out a bit  (or alot depending on the color) when totally cured. I could go on for hours on this topic but it all comes down to, practise, practise and practise some more. Weathering is no exact science and if it looks ok to you.........

Just did a quick shot of the engine shed on the layout.  Still alot of work to do around the shed and I have to add more light above the layout, like light spots for instance. I will have to work on that the comming winter and I realy could use a digicam usage course, and....and....and...and..., lol...But as they say, "modelrailroading is FUN"

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The blue warehouse buildings in the back of the second picture are going to be next (but not tomorow, tomorow working on some Soundtraxx Tsu's, héhé)

Jappe

CEO, U.P.-Willamette Valley Sub aka U.P.-Eureka & Willamette Valley Branch

----------------------------------Ship it now, Ship it right---------------------------------------------

                                        age(42).jpeg 

Don't ride behind me, I will not lead you, don't ride in front of me, I will not follow you, just ride next to me and be my bro......

Reply 0
caboose14

And yet again.....

.......Jappe nails it! That's a great looking structure. So perfect in a large scene it might tend to be overlooked because it looks correct and not extreme or garish. Perfect in my opinion.

Kevin Klettke CEO, Washington Northern Railroad
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wnrr@comcast.net
http://wnrr.net

Reply 0
Geared

Nice

That's a great looking structure, Jappe. Well done.

Roy

Roy

Geared is the way to tight radii and steep grades. Ghost River Rwy. "The Wet Coast Loggers"

 

Reply 0
RCredbaron

Dimensions and Kit Number

Hi Jappe

Great job on your engine shed.

I am looking for a similar small engine shed for a limited space.  Could you give me the dimensions of your shed.

I have looked at the structures available from Pikestuff, but I do not see one similar to yours.  Could you have used Pikestuff Kitbasher Series - Modern Small Enginehouse kit number 541-5000 and modified it, just for the engine door and not the extended work area, with small entrance door?  The dimensons for the 541-5000 are 4"X81/4".  Your engine shed appears to be longer.

Thanks

Rick

Reply 0
TPFrazier

Looks super

I've tried to pinpoint (google searches) approximately what's the earliest these modern style engine houses started showing up without success.  The ones I've found appear in the early 70's even though metal sided buildings started appearing in numbers after WWII.  My layout is early 60's.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Tim

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