Joe Atkinson IAISfan

This is a follow-up to a Weekly Photo Fun thread discussion that started at  https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/weekly-photo-fun-242102018-12209018 and continued on concerning the merits of Sergent couplers vs. Kadee semi-scale.  Since we were straying from the intent of that thread, I thought I'd start a new topic. See first reply below. 

Joe Atkinson
Modeling Iowa Interstate's 4th Sub, May 2005
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Reply 0
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Sergents

Here's TwinStar's latest reply from the thread above for some context:

Quote:

Joe:

I'm sorry to hear that your friends have had problems with Sergent couplers. We've been using them for about a decade now and our experience hasn't been that problematic. For every 100 that I assemble 80 will work right the first time, 10 will need to be rebuilt off the bench, 5 will fail in service, and 5 will start sticking requiring a rebuild. Out of the 500 or so that I've assembled to date I think there have been 2-3 casting errors as well. 

The Sergent most certainly needs to be aligned properly when coupling. They also require you to 'stretch them' just like our prototype to ensure that the knuckle is closed. This requires an operator to handle the train prototypically and slow down the operation. While a Kadee will go together easier on a tangent they become really cumbersome while fighting the coupler with a meat skewer trying to uncouple the car. This is where the Sergent really shines as you can select which knuckle you actually want to open when uncoupling the car. 

The Sergent coupler really isn't for the guy that wants to throw 50 cars on the track and run track speed with all the trailing headlights illuminated on his consist. But neither are a lot of other detail parts. And I do stand by my Tyco comment. The Kadee coupler is a wart on the nose of some very, very fine models. Models with the correct battery boxes, thin wall cabs, the correct horns, the correct trucks, scale rails and grabs, COTS dots, detailed draft gear, etc and yet so many are fine with this unprototypical oversized abomination on their model. That's OK as it's each our own railroad. But the post that I responded to was from a modeler whose skill level exceeds the majority and I was genuinely curious why this one detail was overlooked while so many others were not.

I took a look at your blog and I was thoroughly impressed with the modeling that you've done. The detail and quality are amazing. Very, very high quality work. I would ask though if you've tried Sergent couplers personally or are you solely relying upon reports from friends? If you're the one who built those FastTrack turnouts, buried the rail in the road, and applied the static grass then you more than have the skill level to assemble them correctly. You can purchase a pack of 6 Type E's for $7. Try them. They even couple to scale head KD's. And if you hate them let me know and I'll buy them from you.

Technology and manufacturing processes have advanced the hobby past shake the box kits, KD's couplers, and DCC. The thing that remains the same is the skepticism whenever change or something new is introduced to the norm. I was the first to adopt Sergent and RailPro within my modeling circle and the blasphemy accusations were just as loud then. But a few years later and after the guys have seen things first hand we're now 75% Sergent and approaching 50% RailPro, 10% BlueRail, and only 40% DCC. Not all change will be adopted by all modelers but I'd suggest getting some first hand experience and seeing what you think. 

I very much appreciate your kind words about my modeling, and also the additional information you provided.  I love the looks of the Sergents and the idea of uncoupling a car without making physical contact with it.  However, my main concerns come down to the following:

  1. Low speed coupling.  I've heard consistently that Sergents can be finicky when coupling, sometimes requiring the operator to try several times, and at unrealistic speeds, in order to get the ball bearing to drop.  That's a deal-killer for me.  Kadee semi-scale couplers work consistently well, even at a crawl.  Yes, the prototype sometimes has to make multiple attempts to get a good joint also, but coupling at 10-15 mph isn't an option there, and that seems to be the common "fix" for Sergents when those problems arise.
  2. Operational reliability.  The numbers you mentioned would mean dozens of additional failures that I'm not experiencing today with Kadees.  From day 1 on my layout, I've tried to make operations as reliable, consistent, and low-maintenance as possible by standardizing on high-reliability items like Intermountain wheelsets, solderless switch point attachments, and Kadee semi-scale couplers.  Sergents would be a move in the opposite direction for me, and I just don't see enough of a difference in appearance to merit the pain.
  3. Alignment.  I actually like having to occasionally align couplers.  Completely prototypical.  However, my combination of layout height and the depth of some scenes makes it impossible for operators to look down on joints made closer to the backdrop, and with the more limited gathering area of the Sergents, that becomes problematic.

Some other thoughts:

  1. I agree on stretching a train.  Good idea regardless of coupler.
  2. I keep seeing "meat skewer" references, but Micro Mark uncoupling tools are actually smaller than the Sergent wand.
  3. You may stand by your Tyco comment, but that doesn't mean it's productive for these types of discussions.  I think it's clear that you mean it as an insult to those of us who prefer Kadees, and I've personally found it to be difficult to win anyone to my point of view while insulting their current position.  Realism can mean different things at different levels.  Sergents win in that department if you're simply looking at the coupler itself.  Perfect for contest models.  However, the primary "model" I'm building is the layout as a whole, including prototypical operation, and if some part of that impedes operational accuracy, then it's not a good fit for me.

I'll be the first to admit I've never tried Sergents personally.  However, I've also never tried smoking.  At some point, when you hear enough negatives about something, you can form a reasonable opinion without having to actually experience it firsthand.   The typical response I see regarding Sergent reliability issues is that the assembler/installer wasn't careful enough.  However, if your product has developed this consistent reputation for that level of precision being necessary in order for it to function properly, it seems you would eventually have to question if the fault lies with the product design rather than the user.

I have no doubt that Sergents are the perfect coupler for you and your priorities.  However, as you've illustrated by your preference for RailPro over DCC, what's perfect for one person may be a step backward for another...and that's okay!  Personally, I'd never for one moment want to give up my Loksound decoders and DCC for RailPro, but if you're happy with your choice, then it's a great fit for you.

Finally, I think it's unfair to position Kadee users as being "resistant to change" simply because we haven't jumped at Sergents.  "Newer" does not make a product or technology superior in its ability to meet the needs of each individual.  When I see a technology that IS an improvement for my needs, I'm not a bit afraid of jumping in with both feet, as evidenced by my wholesale conversion from Tsunamis to Loksounds a year or so ago.  I believe a Kadee-to-Sergent conversion would be easier, and I'd do it in a heartbeat if the benefit was there.

Quote:

If you're the one who built those FastTrack turnouts...

Also, off-topic, but to avoid confusion for anyone else who might happen to check out my blog, my turnouts were all hand-laid the old-fashioned way, pre-FastTracks.  Too many short, stubby walls in our old basement to hope to use any stock turnout sizes, but I was determined to match my prototype's schematic exactly (with the exception of having one too few yard and RIP tracks in my primary yard), so all were custom-built in place to fit the situation.

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James Six

Wow, Joe. Very well stated. I

Wow, Joe. Very well stated. I completely agree with your position as it is my position too on this subject. The primary driving force for me using Kadee #153 semi-scale couplers as my freight car standard is both availability and reliability. These are two factors that I cannot give up. I buy my Kadee couplers for less than half what a Sergent coupler would cost me. That is another factor.

All of you points are well stated. Thank you for explaining it all to us.

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wp8thsub

Not Interested Either

I get beyond sick of the refrain that anyone not using the Sergent product is engaged in lesser quality modeling. I don't like how they work in an op session environment. Not wanting to change over to their couplers isn't about resistance to change. A Sergent coupler may have a fine scale appearance, but it doesn't work nearly as well as a Kadee for many of us.

Rob Spangler MRH Blog

Reply 0
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Jim

Thanks very much Jim.  I appreciate your encouragement.

Reply 0
Skeleton

I was planning on switching

I was planning on switching to Sergents but now I'm on the fence. I have a small bag of them I had bought to test them out and they are somewhat ideal for me because I run coal cars with loose coal loads in them and the cars empty at a facility on the layout. With Kadees if a coal car derails it sometimes falls completely over spilling the coal all over the layout. However with sergents it seems that for a car to tip all the way over, it would have to flip the entire train over. Which doesn't seem likely that it could. I want to go to Sergents for if something does go wrong I don't have catastrophic derailments, but coupling them in the first place is difficult.

The look of the Sergent couplers is great, but it's the solid coupling I like. This is a tricky topic and I'm looking forward to hearing everyones experiences. I would love for users on both sides to post more pros and cons rather than bicker what looks better.

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A. C. Hubbard

Also..

I also stand with the Kadees..Joe and Jim, you have hit the reasons I also use. If I were to build a contest quality shelf model.. I prob would use the Sergents.. But I am more interested in the trains operating than shelf sitting..so there it is.. (And yes, I have tried the Sergents). Bottom line on detail..we do what makes us happy.. If it is Tyco or what have you ..so be it.. nothing wrong with it if it provides that happy we look for in a hobby  

Lastly.. maybe a little grin while we count those rivets..(Photo ..Compliments of my friend Randall)

20rivets.jpg 

Tony

 

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joef

Remember John Allen?

You remember John Allen, right? His photos and modeling dazzled the modelers of his day. He used code 70 nickel-silver rail when everyone else was still using code 100 brass rail, and he was weathering everything realistically when everyone else just went with the pristine model look. John was also into ops big-time and he used Baker hook-and-loop couplers, which looked nothing like real couplers -- not even close. He used them because they operated well and once he was committed, he often said he had no interest in going back to change out many hundreds of couplers for something more realistic. The Bakers worked great, and he had better things to do with his time. So don't impose your priorities on others, and by all means, don't insult them by saying they're not real scale model railroaders! I, for instance, use oversized #5 Kadees and their equivalents (#140-series whisker couplers) and I also leave the metal trip pins on the couplers. I am into ops like John was, and like him, I now have many hundreds of cars equipped with the oversized #5s and I'm not going to take the time to replace them with something else. I use the 3 foot rule in my modeling. I know the magazines (us as well) like to promote perfect replication of the prototype down to the last nut and bolt, but I prefer Allen McClelland's "good enough" philosophy in my own modeling. For me, good enough is how it looks from three feet way -- and how it works trumps everything else. The number 5s have a larger gathering range than scale head 158s and the 5's slightly larger total height are also more forgiving of track imperfections -- so good enough works dandy for me. You would not say John Allen's modeling was a hack, so don't call anyone else's modeling a hack just because they prefer function over form in some cases (like John Allen did).

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Reply 0
Neil Erickson NeilEr

Switching

I have been experimenting with S scale Sargent’s for my On30 equipment. The hard coupling seems to be less of a problem in this size/scale with adequate weight in the car - sometimes called over weighting. Besides the better coupling I like the mass of pulling out the slack, less slinky motions, and more stable rolling without wobbles.

There are a lot of spots that I cannot reach well on my layout so centering the coupler can be a bit of a challenge but see that now someone has created a Shapeways printed coupler box that will allow a centering spring to be added. Maybe not quite as prototypical but would be a nice compromise for me to get the appearance and performance as well. 

Neil Erickson, Hawai’i 

My Blogs

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fred1940

Couplers

Dead on, Joe A. and Joe F.!

Joe A., I think you've covered just about every possible aspect of the pluses/minuses, and differences as there are to cover. In which direction could one go and not find a niche (or two) to comfortably rest in and catch one's breath to use in agreeing or disagreeing with some or all of the various views therein? Although I also am among those who have not yet tried the Sergents, I am able to discern some of the pros & cons which seem to loom over the choice between the two brands.

When I first began to modify my rolling stock by tossing the horn-hooks and installing Kadees (so many years ago, DCC was still a bit in the future!), I just loved the idea that the couplers looked like, well, couplers -and they worked remotely, too! Of course, they worked remotely when they shouldn't once in a while, too, but that's another story... The point I'm making is - we seem to be at the same discussion point we modelers always seem to arrive at - which (read "any model railroad product invented since the pull-toy on the floor") is better??  And THAT, I think, is what generates the spark which has ignited the truly inventive thinking that has produced everything that has, for the most part, promoted this hobby forward over time into an age where such discussions are possible about so many wonderful (and yes, maybe not-so-wonderful sometimes!) things, that no one really need worry too much about the merits of these products; there are new thoughts and views about them every day! And you can bet that someone will put them forth.

Joe F., I do indeed remember (also many years ago!) reading about John Allen and his famous "G&D" . In a particularly interesting article I recall one phrase that stuck  with me - "uses Baker couplers, is happy with them"-. Not even knowing at that time what a Baker coupler even looked like, I figured if John liked them, for whatever reason, they must be OK. I was surprised later when I actually saw them, but not that he used them; after all, look what else he was doing at the time.

So, thanks for your input, Joe A. and Joe F. - I'm really happy with my Kadees, and hope everyone who is using Sergents or anything else, for that matter, is happy with their choice too.

And I think we all CAN get along...

                                                      Fred B.

Fred B.

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Pat M

From my experience...

At one point, I had Sergent couplers on about 80% of my equipment. I loved how they looked and they functioned prototypically. I assembled over 300 by hand, had a total of 12 failures (too much glue, too little glue).

A friend of mine also uses Sergents exclusively, but his layout is designed to "run" and involves very little switching. My layout is opposite, there is a decent length of run, but a lot of switching, which I enjoy. Sergents weren't the best choice for me. Sometimes they wouldn't couple or uncouple (but the knuckle would open and close by hand), and making a coupling at 20 scale mph so the doggone ball will drop was a kill joy.

I am reasonably confident that I assembled all of mine correctly and even reamed out the holes the ball rests in to help performance (which worked). But I cannot get the performance out of them that I need. Not a criticism of Sergent Engineering, I think it is a wonderful product, but not for a switching layout.

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bobmorning

Honey I shrunk the coupler

I tell my staff all the time "Perfection is the enemy of good".  Each of us has our own viewpoint on good vs perfection; and the fact that a lot of us use Kadee #5 for our own good reasons is a proof point of "..to each his own".

Suggestion:  carefully painting the #5 with a mixture of rail brown/grimy black shrinks the perceived size of the coupler.  I also trim back the trip pin about 3 mm, paint it flat black and a dab of gray on the very tip to represent the gladhand.   From 3 feet it does not look as prominent and "eye catching".

 

7_164450.jpg 

 

Bob M.

Modeling the Western Maryland in the 1980's at http://wmrwy.com

20pixels.jpg 

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ctxmf74

"I am reasonably confident

Quote:

"I am reasonably confident that I assembled all of mine correctly and even reamed out the holes the ball rests in to help performance (which worked). But I cannot get the performance out of them that I need.."

   I wouldn't expect to get prototype performance from Sergents.Folks forget that the physics of mass/weight/gravity don't scale down the same rate as the size does. The knuckle design coupler that works well on a prototype shouldn't be expected to work well when scaled down to one eightyseventh of it's size. Kadee knew this when they designed their couplers so they optimized their design for model characteristics not prototype characteristics. Kadees perform better than Sergents because they were designed to perform, not to look like a scaled down prototype coupler. That's why we also have DCC and electric motors in our models instead of little robots pushing and pulling tiny levers controlling tiny diesel prime movers. A model is not a prototype object, a model is designed for a different job, and a different purpose, something that some hobbyists tend to forget. My experiments with Sergents confirmed that they can be made to work but not without significant  sacrifice in installation cost and ease, ,maintenance effort, and operational reliability. Where one draws the line between practicality and perception of prototype fidelity  makes a big difference in their opinion of both brands of couplers. Sergents have been around for a decade or more with little progress winning over the great mass of model railroaders which tells a lot on it's own.......DaveB

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Joe Atkinson IAISfan

@bobmorning

Quote:

Suggestion:  carefully painting the #5 with a mixture of rail brown/grimy black shrinks the perceived size of the coupler.  I also trim back the trip pin about 3 mm, paint it flat black and a dab of gray on the very tip to represent the gladhand.   From 3 feet it does not look as prominent and "eye catching".

That's a great improvement Bob!  With the trip pin cut in that way, it really does a nice job of suggesting an air hose on the other side.

Reply 0
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

@Skeleton

Quote:

With Kadees if a coal car derails it sometimes falls completely over spilling the coal all over the layout. However with sergents it seems that for a car to tip all the way over, it would have to flip the entire train over. Which doesn't seem likely that it could. I want to go to Sergents for if something does go wrong I don't have catastrophic derailments, but coupling them in the first place is difficult.

Personally, I think it'd be far cheaper and easier to address the source of your derailments rather than convert your entire roster to Sergents just to minimize the mess caused by those derailments.  And you'll enjoy the layout a lot more in the end.

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Jeff Whitney

It's in the puddin'

Great topic Joe! Firstly I'd like to say I like the looks of the Sergent coupler, this came about when I joined the Rustbucket forum @ TWS/TRB. Looking at photos posted by Gary Christiansen(and others) they were always full of realism, one of the things that helped were the Sergent scale couplers. I adopted the practice of using them myself, they are certainly great looking in photographs. Rather than change the couplers back to KD, I figured I would just use them on the layout as they were. As it has already been said they were not problematic in a long train on a continuous loop, however switching was a different story. Without the uncoupling tool you have to hand uncouple by lifting the car clear of the opposing coupler, thankfully I purchased the tool. Having the tool in didn't always guarantee that the knuckle would open, that in it's self became irritating. Then there was the mating of rolling stock, this too became a real pain. There were times when I would slam 2 cars together by hand and they still wouldn't couple, I pull the car off the layout and work the coupler with my finger nail and it would operate flawlessly. I have hand built 50 sets using Sergents coupler jig, boy does that make it a lot easier to assemble the buggers. I did have a number of failures that were assembly error, too much ca the ball bearing gets stuck, too little they fall apart and the most irritating of all is when the knuckle pulls out. That one may not have been my fault. 

So short story long, I switched back to KD's..... loosing a spring isn't a pain?  Will we ever be satisfied? I say run what is appropriate for what you are asking your SCALE coupler to do or look like. I still like the Sergent scale coupler In my photos but as soon as it has done the job KD's go in the box! 'Nuff said...

​JEFF WHITNEY....apprentice to this thing we crazies call weathering!

tws.png 

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redP

Switching back

As stated on the other thread. I have used Sergents for years and decided to switch back to Kadees. Price had nothing to do with it. For me it was all about the operational functionality. I want to enjoy my modeling without having to make 5 or 6 attempts at making a tie. I am going to stick with Joe on this one. 

 Modeling Penn Central and early Amtrak in the summer of 1972

 

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Rustman

I use Sergents and am happy

But I don't think that was the point of this post. There are lots of posts about Sergents. But what we had here was condescension and arrogance in the original post. Why do some modelers feel the need to deride other people's methods of enjoying the hobby? I have nothing against Kadee users, I don't feel you are beneath me. In fact not too long ago I ran a string of Sergent cars on the end of a train with Kadee scale couplers. A fun time was had by all. As a Sergent user I'll offer to tell you about my experience, I'll provide insight and advice if asked. But nothing more. 

P.S. From the tone I think I know who wrote the original piece attacking IAISfan and if it's who I think, we've exchanged words before. 

Matt

"Well there's your problem! It's broke."

http://thehoboproletariat.blogspot.com/

 

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Michael Whiteman

I tried Sargents and

found them to look extremely realistic.  That's the main reason anyone would ever consider switching over.  They are very time consuming to assemble compared to KDs and are pretty frustrating until you design a jig to hold them and figure out a technique that works for you.  I have a shelf switching layout with some high end rolling stock which number around ten, so for me the change to Sargent's seemed doable.  If you have a hundred cars and use them in ops sessions, I would advise against it.  The assembly time and overall frustration factor is way too high.

My suggestion to you would be, buy the starter pack as mentioned above, and just do one coupler on each of two cars.  This way you can play with them and make your own decision.  One thing I will strongly suggest is to inspect each piece of the coupler before starting the assembly.  Look for casting flaws and parting marks.  I was extremely impressed as to the quality of these little castings.  Clean up any surface that moves against another with some 600 grit paper.  Look down into that little hole that contains the BB.  There's most always some roughness in there that will hang up the BB's operation.  Find a drill bit THE SIZE OF THE HOLE and turn it with your FINGERS to clean it up.  DO NOT enlarge it even a little or it will become junk.  Take the point of a pencil and stick it down there and rotate it so as to deposit some graphite on the sides of the hole. When it comes to gluing the lid on this thing. I placed the lid on and got it into position.  Then I applied ACC to the edges where they met.  This way the glue does not run down inside necessitating the disassembly and starting all over.  I hope these tips help you.

In the end, I chose not to use Sargent Couplers and went back to the new KD scale size ones.  They sure look better than their old #5 version and I love the self centering whiskers.  Give Sargent's a try.  If you don't like 'em, you're only out a few bucks.  How many times have we all done this with other products ?

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Kriegwulfe

Clueless

I have to admit I was clueless about Sergent Couplers until the post. My curiosity was piqued and so I decided to do a bit of research and reading. They do look nice and much more prototypical than the Kadee's, that is a given. I was all set to order the trial 6-pack until I then ventured up on YouTube to check for reviews and  information. I found a nice video that explained the couplers, how to construct them, and then to crash them together to get them to couple. The reviewers first couple attempt was a failure so he literally had to crash them together. I am all for looking good. However having to use the force shown in the video to couple cars absolutely turned me off. I have no need to add any more frustration to my train hobby and the springs on the Kadee couplers isn't all that bad looking compared to broken or dislodged couplers from a mounting box as I would strongly suspect might happen using the Sergents couplers. I am not going to throw rocks at any users of these couplers..be blessed and happy in whatever you use...but I just cannot see me converting any stock to using them.

 

The video shows the coupling at around the 5 minute mark.

 

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Rustman

Slamming Cars

I watched that video at the mark you posted and cringed. I've never had to do that. I have a few that stuck on me until I FOLLOWED DIRECTIONS. All Sergent couplers I've used since I assembled them by FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS have worked fine. Absolutely no need to ram the cars together. They couple so well that I have a bigger issue failing to have the coupler centered and when I go to couple cars the knuckle(s) close on one or both cars. User error, not defective product. 

You don't need anyone to give you reasons for or against. If they hold enough appeal that you were considering it; then try a small batch. If you don't like using them; place them on display models, use on the layout as detail parts, dismantle one and put the knuckle into a holder on the front of a diesel... That way it's not loss. But above all. Have fun. 

 

 

Matt

"Well there's your problem! It's broke."

http://thehoboproletariat.blogspot.com/

 

Reply 0
dapenguin

Shapeways?? and plans

Neil;  Who at shapeways has "S" boxes.  I didnt know about that project.  I am aware of John D's design being produced by Jim King.  However that is not Shapeways.  Jim King is also doing H0 ones since the narrow Accurail boxes are hard to find for some.  No connection, just a satisfied customer.
http://www.smokymountainmodelworks.com/S_draft_gear+cplrs.html
/> http://www.smokymountainmodelworks.com/HO_draft_gear+cplrs.html

I plan to use the "S" Sergents on my standard gauge.  I will only have about 20 cars max.  And the track is right out front.  For the 42" stuff, that is the majority of the layout, I will use the almost scale H0 to represent S scale 3/4 size couplers.  The British investors in the 2' tram have imported choppers and spoked wheels.  But that track is unidirectional anyway.  Kinda like L&B.  

I chose to do this cause the KDs are just easier for me to use from a wheelchair.  Rather than reaching that far with my eyeballs or also filing that many knuckles to get type D couplers.  The chopper couplers and spoked wheels are just to be onry  Gona have odd ball locos too)

TCC:}

TC Carr
Malheur, Kopperton & Tejas * Sn3½ in 1923
(the I don't know yet) * Sn2 "Gilpin in Idaho"
​Anaconda, Oregon & Pacific * S Scale Heavy Electric
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Reply 0
Dave K skiloff

Tried them, using Kadee

I really like the look of Sergent's couplers when I switched to HO a few years ago.  I bought quite a few and tried some of them out, along with the Magnetic air hoses.  The combination looks pretty good in a photo, but when it came to operation, they were frustrating at times and I don't want to be frustrated while I'm switching cars.  Kadees may not look as good, but they can look fine as someone posted earlier by painting them.  Nip the trip pin and they look better, too.  

These are good discussions as you can see some people use them and enjoy them and that's great.  The more options we have as modelers, the better for all of us.  What was unacceptable about the critique was not the original Tyco comment, but the doubling down and standing by that if you have a Kadee you make your models look like Tyco.  It's a needless comment that only serves to get a strong response.  Why can't you just say that to you, the Kadees just don't look as good and leave it at that?

Dave
Playing around in HO and N scale since 1976

Reply 0
Joe Atkinson IAISfan

Other uses

Quote:

...place them on display models, use on the layout as detail parts, dismantle one and put the knuckle into a holder on the front of a diesel...

That's a good point Matt.  Another option is on grounded equipment, such as these old boxcars my prototype uses for storing parts near the Bluffs enginehouse.

18%20(1).JPG 

18%20(2).JPG 

So it wasn't 100% accurate to say I'd never tried Sergents. 

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George J

Remembering John Allen

Quote:

John was also into ops big-time and he used Baker hook-and-loop couplers, which looked nothing like real couplers -- not even close. He used them because they operated well and once he was committed, he often said he had no interest in going back to change out many hundreds of couplers for something more realistic. The Bakers worked great, and he had better things to do with his time.

Joe, IIRC the couplers John was talking about, and resisted changing to where those "new fangled" KayDee couplers.

The more things change, the more things stay the same.

George

"And the sons of Pullman porters and the sons of engineers, ride their father's magic carpet made of steel..."

Milwaukee Road : Cascade Summit- Modeling the Milwaukee Road in the 1970s from Cle Elum WA to Snoqualmie Summit at Hyak WA.

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