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Bachmann Gp40 accuracy Locos and rolling stock
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Regular poster 222 posts kh25 Regular poster 222 posts
kh25
How accurate are the dimensions of the Bachmann sound value gp40s? Thank you
Mark Kingsbury
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blindog10 Prolific poster 3,329 posts
blindog10

looks okay from 6 feet away

You really shouldn't ask questions that you don't want to know the answer to..... It is basically the right size for a GP40. The shell was originally made by Roco for Atlas in 1975. Bachmann made no significant changes to the carbody, but the drive is their design, not Roco's. Arguably it looks better than the original Roco drive, but I really can't say if it's more or less durable. Neither of them are up to the modern standard set by Kato over 30 years ago. It's when you start looking at the details that you find plenty to nitpick, and those all go back to the original Roco shell. And pretty much I can find something subpar in every bit of the carbody. So it's a 6-foot model. Runs okay. Sounds decent. Make sure you don't let the bearings run dry. Scott Chatfield
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YoHo Prolific poster 3,087 posts
YoHo

if you're looking for a shell

if you're looking for a shell to experiment on with cannon&company upgrades it is a fabulous choice. Otherwise... Not so much.
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bobby pitts Regular poster 339 posts
bobby pitts

nothing will help

All of the Cannon in the world won't help all of its flaws. A real cannon might help.

Bobby Pitts
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Nelsonb111563 Moderator 2,268 posts
Nelsonb111563

Only to the rivet counters!

From a modeling perspective, if it looks like a GP40 then it's just fine!  As for how accurate you want one to be, then you will need to research dimensional data in the internet and then make your own calculations.  Bachmann has been putting out some very good product in the last few years but this is still a "toy" company.  They have vastly improved their drive system and as far as running quality in their models it really shows!  Detail wise the are lacking but in my opinion that leaves it ripe for adding your own details.  

I'm sure there are much more accurate models available from other manufactures but most likely at 2 to 3 times the cost!

Nelson Beaudry,  Principle/CEO

Kennebec, Penobscot and Northern RR Co.
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YoHo Prolific poster 3,087 posts
YoHo

The problem with the old Roco

The problem with the old Roco shell is how thick the details are and the fact that the steps around the cab are not detailed.

 

Replace the battery boxes with cannon ones and replace the fans with < your favorite 48" fan here> , scrape off the molded details that are too much for you to handle and the model is tolerable. 
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blindog10 Prolific poster 3,329 posts
blindog10

keep cutting till you see China

If you cut away the parts with problems, you'll be left with some hood doors and the box it came in. But it's a body shell tooled in 1975. I am hard pressed to think of a plastic model from 1975 that really meets the standards of 1998 much less 2018. Scott Chatfield Counting rivets since 1972.
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YoHo Prolific poster 3,087 posts
YoHo

I note your signature and so

I note your signature and so I presume we will not be in agreement here ever.

 

I have a couple of old Atlas/Roco shells. I sliced off the molded grabs. replaced the battery boxs with cannon and replaced the fans with Detail associates.

I have yet to mount these shells to a mechanism, but it will either be an Athearn GP38/40/50 mech or maybe If I can find them cheap, the Bachmann one. The model meets my criteria for a reasonably credible loco. Some of the details are thicker than I'd like, but the cost on these was sunk over 20 years ago. So the price is right. 
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bobby pitts Regular poster 339 posts
bobby pitts

I too am a rivet counter & proud of it!

Rivets are fun, especially if applied one at a time. 

Bobby Pitts
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blindog10 Prolific poster 3,329 posts
blindog10

pearls before swine

That describes putting Cannon parts on the old Roco shells. For about the same money you can start with a later production Atlas GP40 (introduced in 2000), add the same Cannon parts in less time, and have a much nicer looking model when you're done. And it will run better and longer with less maintenance. Modelers tend to look at loco and freight car detailers like drivers tend to look at other drivers on the freeway. The ones that go faster than you are crazy and the slower ones are morons. (Be honest.) I don't call people that take detailing to a higher level crazy, or folks that are happy with less detail morons. It's a free country. But don't take the attitude that those that are willing to raise the bar are ruining the hobby or your play time. Except for Bobby Pitts. He is crazy.... Scott Chatfield
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YoHo Prolific poster 3,087 posts
YoHo

Now see, I wouldn't put

Now see, I wouldn't put Cannon battery boxes on the Atlas shell in either case, because the shell is already good enough.

I don't see how it would take less time to add them.

And since the Roco shells are already owned, it in fact would cost a lot more money. 

The Rocos also run fine.

 

It might also be worth pointing out that while the tooling is clearly "the same" it is not literally the same, because the Bachmann isn't quite as egregious on the thick details. 

 

I don't judge anyone on their rivet counting or lack there of, but the OP didn't suggest what sufficient in terms of accuracy, only how accurate it was. It's not particularly accurate in that the details are chunky, but to my knowledge, it's dimensions are fairly correct, the mechanism is sound and I gave a couple of relatively inexpensive options for improving the looks. 
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YoHo Prolific poster 3,087 posts
YoHo

I guess another way to put it

I guess another way to put it is, if you got the GP40 in a train set and really just want to bring it up to some basic detail standards. Maybe as an engine you're going to try airbrush painting on, then some battery boxes and new fans are going to be your biggest bang for your buck and will make all the difference. Will it be award winning? Probably not, but it won't stand out quite as badly. 
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