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BL2 windows question... Locos and rolling stock
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Prolific poster 3,008 posts Warflight Prolific poster 3,008 posts
Warflight

So, I have a Proto 2000 undecorated BL2 that I plan to... well... decorate...

l1600(3).jpg 

Anyway... my problem, is I haven't figured out the best way to remove the windows before painting.

The window is a single piece, that isn't cemented in, but it's in pretty tight... are there any tips, or secrets to this?

l1601(1).jpg 

l1602(1).jpg 

I plan to convert it to DCC. I have already replaced the drive hears... the motor is very sound, and it runs BEAUTIFULLY in DC. Rather than hard wire it in, I had planned to put in a PC board... this one:

90616(1).jpg 

But I have decided to save myself some soldering by using this instead:

pc1(1).jpg 

Mostly because I already know how to wire this one in, plus it's a lot smaller (the big piece won't be installed, just the square) and it gives me the option to use my LEDs, and the clips instead of soldering is just a bonus is all.

Why a board, and not a direct hard wire? Well, because I am putting in  a decoder I already have (Bachmann 8 pin) and plan to put in a sound decoder at a later date, so an 8 pin plug is a must for me.

But back to the topic... if anyone has removed the windows from a P2K BL2, or something similar, and has some suggestions on how best to do it without damaging the windows, or the model, I'm all ears! (well... eyes... because I'll be reading it... you get it...)
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jeffshultz MRH Staff 7,978 posts
jeffshultz

Liquid masking film?

There are at least a few varieties out there. This is produced by Vallejo -

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Liquid-Model-Color-Paint/dp/B000PHCNMG

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Jeff Shultz - MRH Technical Assistant
DCC Features Matrix/My blog index
Modeling a fictional GWI shortline combining three separate areas into one freelance-ish railroad.
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Graham Line Prolific poster 1,173 posts
Graham Line

Windows

Are the cab windows a one-piece molding? In other cabs, I have been able to wedge the wide end on flat toothpicks between the 'glass' and the side of the cab, then gently wiggle and slide the clear plastic part out. This works on P2K Geeps and the Kato and Atlas Alco RS units -- have never had reason to mess around with a BL2.

It's kind of a one-time process. Once you get one out, and then back in, you don't want to do it twice on the same engine.

 
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Warflight Prolific poster 3,008 posts
Warflight

It is...

... a one piece molding. Flat toothpicks you say? I'll have to try that... it seems to have a couple of pieces shaped to wedge it into the holes.

I thought about masking, but I'd rather remove the windows to paint it, as I'm trying to avoid uneven edges in the paint.
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Nick Santo amsnick MRH Advertiser and MRH Author 2,813 posts
Nick Santo amsnick

@ Warflight

It was semi-carefully wedged in soooooooooo..........    if you’re careful and look at the situation it can also be caarrrffffuuuuullllllyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy wedged out.   How do I know that?   Anyway the Toothpick Method will be easy on the plastic windows so the plastic engineer and conductor can still see out!!!

I know.....  no plastic people allowed in Proto cabs....

I have no experience but don’t desire any in terms of masking.

hope at least you got a chuckle.....

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.
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Warflight Prolific poster 3,008 posts
Warflight

Heh...

A bit... yeah...
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Warflight Prolific poster 3,008 posts
Warflight

HUZZAH!

The toothpick trick worked... just a small bit of pressure on the two rear facing windows, and the whole piece simply rocked right out!

Now to mask the lights, and fire up the ol airbrush! (oh, and buy some decals... hmmm....)
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Nick Santo amsnick MRH Advertiser and MRH Author 2,813 posts
Nick Santo amsnick

One more step.

Can you take the same toothpick and poke out the light lenses?  Might lead to very satisfactory LED lighting.

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.
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Warflight Prolific poster 3,008 posts
Warflight

I'm considering it.

Now that I decided on a different PC board, I will be replacing the lights with LEDs (the PC board I have has resistors that limit the current to 1.5v, while the LEDs I have require 3v, and have their own resistors, but the incandescent lamps that come with the loco are 1.5v... so the board I bought, they would have been fine, but the new board, LEDs are what it will need)

The LEDs I have, are what I used in the 2001 issue of the P2K BL2 (in 2001, Lifelike reissued the BL2 with DCC ready, and lighted number boards) The 1989 version (which is what I'm painting and converting) doesn't have lighted number boards, and no practical way to light them... but I'm fine with that.
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Nick Santo amsnick MRH Advertiser and MRH Author 2,813 posts
Nick Santo amsnick

Question

An AA cell battery should give you an indication of whether the LEDs will work as is.  Why not cut the resistor off the LED?

CFAE00F6.png 

This guy and these LEDs are very fine.  The 603s come wired with great wire.

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.
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Warflight Prolific poster 3,008 posts
Warflight

Why?

I need the resistor on the LED. The new board will be feeding the LED full track power... I need the resistor to bring that down to the 3v the LED requires, and not a volt more. The resistors are kinda important.

I just got a nice 20 pack that I used for the other BL2, and they are perfect in every way... size, function, intensity... there is no reason to change them.

With the other board, I wouldn't be able to use them at all... not without altering the board... so I could do all of that extra work, and still have a board a bit too big, or, what I did instead, was spent the 44 for the proper board for the loco.

As for the lenses... I was able to get the real lens, no issues. The front lens, however, snapped off in the back. It won't effect the lighting with the LEDs at all, but, it does mean I'll have to mask the front somehow, and these are really REALLY small holes. Liquid mask would do it, but, would be a bitch to clean off... REALLY small, recessed holes. I have time before I get my decals, so I'll try again tomorrow to remove the lens on the front, or see what I have laying around I can use. I might just make a couple of "plugs" using two toothpicks, and some bullfrog snot (it's not just for drivers anymore)

 
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Nick Santo amsnick MRH Advertiser and MRH Author 2,813 posts
Nick Santo amsnick

Guess I didn’t read the LED issue right.

Good luck with the project.

Nick

Nick

https://nixtrainz.com/ Home of the Decoder Buddy

Full disclosure: I am the inventor of the Decoder Buddy and I sell it via the link above.
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Warflight Prolific poster 3,008 posts
Warflight

Here's to hoping!

I'm actually feeling really confident about this whole thing...

I'm kinda wondering how that's going to all backfire!
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