The Original Flags
Back in the 90's, I was part of a very active modular group. We would have week-long public displays setup in the local shopping malls about 10 times a year. In addition to having a fairly large yard on the outside, we also had a 12-track stub-ended staging yard located on the inside of the setup. Since this was back in the 90's, DC was the standard for track power. We had four throttles available: two radio control for the mainline, and two tethered for the yard area. Block power selection was with rotary switches, and a 12-position rotary switch selected a track in the staging yard.
As is common with DC, it's fairly easy to accidentally put power on the wrong track. Either you turned the rotary to the wrong track, or you clicked the rotary through the tracks too slowly, or you left the rotary set to an occupied track before walking off. Either way, it was all too common for a train in the staging yard to suddenly start moving, making a run for the end of track!
The flag on the left is the original design. When clipped on the rails, it would cause a short if the wrong track was selected. The design was simple, a piece of .020" brass wire bent so that it securely clipped across the rails and painted black, and a small piece of styrene was attached using detail eye bolts. The blue square was hand-painted. The overall style was loosely patterned after a CN prototype that had a bend in the vertical rod. Since the flag naturally tends to lean over when clipped to the rail, a slight bend near the top keeps the flag itself straight and located roughly over the track center line.
But what if I wanted to use a blue flag without causing a short? The flag on the right shows a modified design that clips onto a single rail, perfect for DCC!
Here we see the flag protecting tank cars being unloaded on the Office Park Zone.
Construction is quite easy. There are no critical dimensions. Everything is done using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Start with a piece of .020" wire. Working from one end, make a U-bend with the short leg being about 1/4" long. The width of the U is not critical. I estimated about 1/8" wide.
Next, bend the bottom of the U down like you're forming a grab iron. The bent part will fit into the web of the rail, so the depth of the bend depends on the size of the rail. Make adjustments until the bend is a bit larger than 90 degrees.
Next, we need to bend the hook. Using the very tip of your needle-nose pliers, grab the short part of the U and bend the remaining length down. This section wraps over the top of the rail and comes down along the inside. Then fiddle with the remaining bit of the short end to bend it out slightly. When done, the whole thing should look like this.
Repeat for the long leg of the U, only this time bending the wire up. Trim the long leg down to about 2" so it's easier to work with.
Now, we need to test fit and make any adjustments. You want it to clip on the rail so it doesn't fall over, but don't want it too tight that you can't pull it off afterward.
Here we see how it should clip onto the outside of the rail. The horizontal section tucks into the rail web. To clip it to the rail, place the horizontal part against the outside web and then rotate it over until the short piece snaps over the inside of the rail.
Here's how it looks clipped onto the inside of the rail. I bent the short end inward a bit to help stabilize it a bit more. Adjust the tension as needed. You want to be able to grab the longer wire and pop it off the rail without distorting it.
Finally, finish the flag as appropriate for your prototype. Some flags had straight rods and the whole thing leaned over at an angle. Some had straight rods but the top part of the rod was bent to keep the flag level.
Here we see the new flag setup with the old one. For the new one, I simply cut a piece of blue painters tape and attached it to the wire.
Now your magnetized workers from this thread have blue flag protection they can move around!
Craig