Remotor

There is a guy on Facebook that does P2K remotoring using Kato motors.

@BR GP30

Sounds good, Have a name?

I've been wondering the same

Are a lot of these Proto 2K diesels this bad?
I'm hoping not as I have a number of them.

This isn't quite a remotoring..

You might find this of interest:

@railandsail

Early LL era Proto 2000 Locos were prone to gear splitting and the Es and PAs were heavy and drew lots of power. Good for pulling but could be bad for decoders. Replacing bad gears is straight forward enough as replacements are available from Walthers and NWSL and others. 

I have never fried a Tsunami in my Protos but seek a smoother running motor so I use the Kato motors. As the new Tsunami 2 can accommodate 2 amps, if you retainthe older motor, you should be safe. And you can also ease the motor load by removing the bolt-on weight piece. The frame has more than enough heft to insure adequate traction. 

@Jeff Schultz

Thanks. Pretty straight forward. I ordered 2 Kato motors today to do my UP E8A and B set. Ordered the hex drive conversion drive line from A-line. 

@duckdogger

Message sent to you.

Progress

I purchased the version of Kato motors with the 4 "pin" mounting pads (similar to Athearn and others).The nature of the design of the older Proto frame required removing some metal in the fuel tank area but this was fairly easy with my Ryobi drill and a metal suitable grinding head. I also used an Xacto knife to shave the motor's  mounting pin for an easier fit.

The mounted height was perfect as was cutting and fitting  the PPW-Aline hex drive shaft. While I wait for the Tsunami 2 decoder and sugar cubes, I will change out the bulb for an LED. I will post a detailed article on my MRH blog.

Motor Source?

Somehow I forgot to add this question. Has anyone had experience with buying such items from an offshore source such as China,...like these motors??

Always courious about this

P2K motors perform really well in my motor tests.  These have been compared with open frame and can motors.  I haven’t directly compared them with a Kato motor yet, plan to do that soon.  These tests are motor direct in a common test bed on DC without PWM.  
I wonder in your results, what was improved?  Was something else changed at the same time?  
 

There is no question that the P2K light board modules led to poor operating results, but that was not the motors fault.  The Kato’s motor has a lower operating current draw and stall current draw, but not enough to change for that reason.  The operating noise of the Kato motor is also less, but the sound installs I have done on P2K engines, the motor noise does not overwhelm the sound program.  

sime additional insight would be helpful to expand the tests to see the benefit.

Motors from China

Has anyone experienced ANY problems with ordering these same motors from their source in China,...via that ebay listing??

Maybe not that listing. But I

Maybe not that listing.

But I have bought many items from China.  I have had no problems.

Shipment times have been from 10 days to 2 months.

Howard Garner

Motorhouse

Another fellow recommended this source, Motorhouse

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-24V-High-Speed-5-Pole-Rotor-Micro-Motor-Dual-2mm-Shaft-DIY-RC-Car-Boat/192641701962?

I looked up his 'store' and found multiple pages of MANY motors
http://www.ebaystores.com/Motorhouse/_i.html?rt=nc&_sacat=Motorhouse&_sid=1448637085&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1513&_pgn=1

Update

Check my MRH blog as I have now detailed several Proto motor and drive line upgrades.

Railandsail I've done three

Railandsail 

I've done three athearn RTR tunnel motors and an sd50 with those C-ato motors. All running great. 

They work so well, for the price I bought 40 of them.  Even if there is a failure rate they are cheap enough to not care. 

Motor Mount?

What motor mount do you use?  Will this work?

Regarding mounting the motor

On proto units, the Athearn RTR and Kato mid-production SD40-2 motors have cradles which drop into the original motor’s mounting holes. Some machining is required on the Es to accommodate the flywheels but not on the SD9s and  GP9s I have done. Converting to can motors may be as simple as a suitable pad created from adhesive silicone, foam double sided tape, or other modulus caulk type products. 
 

I am upgrading two Blue Box era 40T-2  locos which have can motors and upgraded trucks. Sometime in the past, a previous owner created a mounting bed of solder and then machined to to the radius of the the bottom of the can motor. Yep, they did. The motor was secured to this “saddle” with thin two sided foam tape. I had to remove the motors to upgrade the motor connections to the new Econami. After cleaning the adhesive residue from the previous install, I secured the motors back into the frame with adhesive siliconized caulk. 

Gary  I bought one of those

Gary 

I bought one of those mounts and it worked but needed some trimming to fit right, eventually the one side snapped  off rendering it useless .  So  I used it to design my own and now print them in resin instead of the FDM process that seller uses.  I made mine stronger and different in areas I saw as weak. 

I use the base design for all my conversion now,  changing what  needs to be for the specific model and print it out. 

Weight in Proto engines

I really though weight was the holy grail with pulling power? 
 

Are you saying that big stock weight is not really necessary?

I have a number of P1K DL109 locos that have SUBSTANTIAL weight to them, and my thoughts were that these are going to pull like a bandit !!  ??  I'm even making a B unit for my DL109 Santa Fe.

how much is enough

I think he's saying that even if you take out the bolt-on weight, the remaining weight is quite sufficient to pull quite a lot. Around our club Proto2000's are generally regarded along with the Broadways as able to pull pretty much whatever you have enough room to assemble. They'll certainly pull at least 60-80 cars. Given that our sidings are only 24-27 cars long, even removing half of the weight will still permit a single unit to pull everything, to say nothing of a consist.

A rule of thumb relative to cars & weight

While the trend not linear, you can figure five ounces of weight for one of these models will result in a 10 car impact on a level track.  That is a net weight change.  Often when your trimming the weight blocks, your adding back some of the removed weight in motor or module/speaker.  The net sum gain of the up grade should offset the potential train length lost.