jappe

Hi al,

well afther having build the American LMTD sanding tower together with the fuel stands of the same brand today, I decided to repaint BLMA's concrete K-rail barriers. Started up the spray gun and gave them a coat with dark grey, afther that I whent back on them with a light sky gray (Tamiya acrylic paint), waited an hour and gave them a very light weathering with a mixture of black and raw umber (aritst oil paints) and last a very light drybrush with titanium white (also artist oilpaint). And as we all know, this meens nothing without pictures..........so, the pictures...

20K-rail.jpg 

"on the workbench together with the sanding tower and the fuel stands"

"still on the workbench"

il%20003.jpg 

"on the layout"

il%20004.jpg 

"last one, on the layout"

I just placed them like that for the pictures, they are not in their permanent spot yet and still need a little drybrushing in a couple of days, when the first paint is thoroughly dry.

Voilà, that's it for today...but,

"I'll be back".....lol

 

Jappe

CEO, U.P.-Willamette Valley Sub aka U.P.-Eureka & Willamette Valley Branch

----------------------------------Ship it now, Ship it right---------------------------------------------

                                        age(42).jpeg 

Don't ride behind me, I will not lead you, don't ride in front of me, I will not follow you, just ride next to me and be my bro......

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jeffshultz

Wow.

That is an incredibly good paint & weather job on those - they look very realistic.

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Jeff Shultz - MRH Technical Assistant
DCC Features Matrix/My blog index
Modeling a fictional GWI shortline combining three separate areas into one freelance-ish railroad.

Reply 0
BlueHillsCPR

Great!

Nice subtle weathering.  They really look like concrete.

Thanks for sharing the pics and your technique.

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caboose14

Those look perfect!

NIcely done! I have copied the recipe for that paint job. I've got a few of those that will find a spot on my layout soon. Thanks for posting!

Kevin Klettke CEO, Washington Northern Railroad
ogosmall.jpg 
wnrr@comcast.net
http://wnrr.net

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Russ Bellinis

Have you decided what to use them for on the layout?

They are widely used on freeways here in So Cal, and often have black marks, where drivers have gotten too close and left tire marks on the bottom edges of them.  I was on the freeway coming home from work a few years ago and watched a kid in a Honda dodging in and out of traffic at high speed, hit one of the K-rails and the momentum caused his car to use the rail like a ramp and put the car on it's side sliding down the freeway!  I also see paint marks left by cars sideswiping them.

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rfbranch

Another Amazing Job Jappe! 

Another Amazing Job Jappe! 

For those that haven't seen his work I think his post on making a loading dock is still one of the best works of coloring and texturing plastic to look like concrete I've ever seen.  His posts have definitely turned me on to the use of oil washes in weathering more than any other.  It's definitely something that people should try. 

It's ironic you posted this Jappe, but I made another attempt to mimic your work in that previous post and rather than drag up a year old topic I hope you don't mind me hijacking this post a bit.  Here is a photo of my latest foray.  I haven't put any tire wear detail or vegetation on the ramp yet but I think it's a definite improvement over my first try (scroll down the post I've linked to above). 

I used a different base color than you did (I used MM Armor Sand Acrylic vs. the WS Concrete Top Coat as it sprayed from an airbrush much better, the Top coat wasn't thinning well and didn't react well to my thinners on hand) but the rest of the technique was more or less the same.  My wash was thinned to the point that when I had the baby food container in the picture filled to the top with the was you could JUST barely see the bottom of the container (it's about 3.5 inches deep). 

I ended up making 7-8 passes with the wash to get to this point but one problem I ran into was streaks across the surface of the concrete from my brush dragging across the surface of the loading dock.  To compensate I experimented with immersing the brush in the wash completely soaking the bristles and then laid it on it's side on the surface I wanted to apply the wash to. 

Capillary action spread the wash over the surface of the structure.  I varied where I laid the brush each time and it seemed to even out the distribution of the wash.  I think my next step will be to dullcoat the model to protect what I've applied so far and then add some emphasis to the cracks and tire wear with chalks to vary the texture. 

Again, apologies to the hijack this post but I wanted to say thanks for sharing your work as you've inspired me and made me feel like a better modeler!

~rich

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~Rich

20Banner.jpg 

Proto-Freelanced Carfloat Operation, Brooklyn, NY c.1974

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jappe

concrete....

Thanks for the nice comments all...

Rich...no apologies needed, realy, infact you made (make) me blush...  All I do is is share. Sharing makes this world a better place. Sharing made our hobby what it is today. I share this, you share that and at the end we all get wiser and better to our capabilities. So you are very welcome and I am glad I made you a happy person.

Now for your ramp,don't be afraid of streaks, just take some more weathering and go over it, next take a cotton handkerchief and dap (don't whipe) the excess off. If you whant extra effects just turn the handkerchief some, whilst you dabb. (like if are trying to crush a bugg) Harder to explain then to do infact.

I never dullcoat, since with dullcoat you create an extra layer between the weathering and the drybrushing and in some circumstances, this is noticable. What I do instead is to drybrush the structure very mildly, wet on wet (wet on wet gives you yet another color nuance) and afther a week I come back with the drybrushing. But go easy on the drybrushing, it is realy DRY-brushing. Make sure when whiping off the paint of your brush there is no paint left to see. A trick is to whipe your brush on the back of your hand, if there is still paint showing, whipe off some more untill nothing shows any more. Don't worry, there is still paint on the brush. Drybrushing is a work of patience. If you drybrush with aritst oilpaints it is important to put the paint on a kitchen whipe-all and whipe your brush on the same. If you do not so, the oil remains in the paint, leaving you with streaks when drybrushing.

You can even go further with "scraping". Scraping is done afther the drybrushing with a brush with no paint at all. Usualy scraping is done by the armor modellers with a worn out drybrush brush (that is sounding weird, lol). But in Ho-scale I realy don't see the need to go this far.

Remember, before you start weathering, brake the tension of the painted surface with your wetting agent. Damp your brush, whipe off and go over the structure.

ok that's it....for today, since...

"I'll be back" ...lol

 

Jappe

CEO, U.P.-Willamette Valley Sub aka U.P.-Eureka & Willamette Valley Branch

----------------------------------Ship it now, Ship it right---------------------------------------------

                                        age(42).jpeg 

Don't ride behind me, I will not lead you, don't ride in front of me, I will not follow you, just ride next to me and be my bro......

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jbaakko

Incredible work!

Incredible work!
Reply 0
Pirosko

Concrete is always tough to

Concrete is always tough to match. I like your results and formula, thanks for the info.

Steve

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deemery

Thanks for the painting tips

Very helpful!

dave 

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