Current 12' x 13' N-scale garage layout:

Zero-footprint benchwork:

Below is my existing zero-footprint benchwork in my current garage 'L'-shaped layout. Since I built it out of 2" x 4" dimensional lumber, secured by 1/2" plywood on top, the structure is extremely robust and doesn't require any additional support other than the Home Depot shelf-brackets.

Backlit Photo Backdrop

I've often wondered how that would look. The idea of led screens for a backdrop on N scale would also be interesting as a Mac could stitch them altogether and you could vary the time of day, clouds passing, moon rise ...

As far as configurations, just keep it simple and accessible. You are already doing that so go for it! I'm following along. 

LED displays:

Of course, that would be ideal, but uber-expensive! Commercial backlit-LED signage panels (< 1" thin) are pretty expensive as it is, but they do offer custom sizes. If I do the entire layout, I'll probably have to make do with a homemade backlit panel. There's two local oil refineries that I've been meaning to shoot ever since I got into this. I want to shoot them at dusk (i.e., "magic hour"), and have the entire layout designed for twilight. 

Lessons learned?

Note that I'm not necessarily looking for specific layout advice or track-plans; rather, if you were to start from scratch in a new space, what are some of the major considerations? (e.g., things like flooring, power outlets, where to put the door, HVAC, etc.) Also, know that I have an adjacent exterior area for paint and plaster work, and will still have space in the garage for a workbench, storage, etc. The new 12' x 24' shed can be reserved solely for the layout.

Option #1

If the vendor offers it, then select an outswing door.  This would eliminate any interior obstruction worries.  There are a number of exterior add-on plates that will help keep it secure.  The hinges have fixed/non-removable pins.

But wait...   there's more!

Also consider 2' X 2' carpet squares.  I've used them in my basement room since they were: 1. inexpensive, and 2. easily replaced when I trash 'em. 

Have fun...

LED lighting...

20,000 hour LEDs give 2500 8 hour days or about 7 years of 8 hour days.  I'm a slow meticulous worker???  It is said that it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert.  A dimmer might extend the life of the LEDs.  The power supply(s) could also be mounted for easy replacement.  Building the layout to be viewed in the semi dark might thwart a lot of rivet counters and offer more operations time!?!  Leave a lot of space for cabinets to store locomotives and rolling stock that will clog the main lines eventually.  Don't forget to position the structure so the 40' return loop extension off the side will fit on your property or obtain a right of way before building the structure.  If you are going to get into brass locomotives don't forget earthquake protection and above all inside don't use chemicals that are known to be carcinogenic to Californians....

I think I've covered everything I can think of tonight.  Have fun.  It looks like a great project.  

I'm intrigued by the backlighted photo backdrop idea.  The heater in Vermont would have to be as big as the building in the winter.  Which came first model railroads or cellars in New England?  I'll have to ask Siri.  You're lucky to live in your climate.  The motor home has a heat pump.  If you insulate well you might use a small heat pump for cold and hot air.  Maybe even solar panels with 13.5 volt outputs to run the trains and a Tessa battery to store power to run the heat pump too.  Don't tell the CFO about all this or mention the cost of running the first train, OK?

Again, have a good. (;

Nick

@Nick

LOL.

Metrolink: Carpet squares are a good idea. Out swinging door is ok with security hinges and no threshold. It also sheds water better (as if that was a concern in LA). I'd definitely look for high windows and a screen door - mind you that it might be a "retractable style" since that would defeat the point of an outswinging door.

I'd plan on my power and lighting as you mentioned and not use Tesla batteries as they are way too expensive compared to your net metering options. I live off the grid with flooded batteries that last 10-11 years and 1/10th the price. You could actually run a 12v system but that's another topic ...

One thing to consider is the distance from the w/c and work shop / work bench. Plan for a sit down cabinet style work space under the layout so it is nice and neat when not in use. I wish that I'd planned for my other hobbies to share my space. It is nice to feel immersed into the miniature world but there are times it would be cool to pull out a guitar, or set up a drawing space. Even a little room for a pull out futon for guests or just me.

If you have the option of a ventilated skylight, frosted to avoid direct sunlight, it would lower your lighting demands and provide a chimney for exhausting heat. Yeah AC would be nice but a laser would be nice too.

Don't scrimp on insulation and finishes. Someday it will be just an investment to sell. A nice poetry room or detached bedroom is worth a lot when the day comes. Again with the w/c, just a thought.

Backdrops and shadows...

I'm actually thinking of figuring a way to light a backdrop. I want a photo backdrop, but I notice the shadows on the walls, so I'm devising a plan for making an LED light strip that will go along the bottom of the backdrop that will eliminate the shadows, but, can have the colour changed for night time shoots. Maybe from a warm yellow for the day, to a blue for the evening.

I'm also contemplating some sort of speaker under the saloon to give me some sounds of the Old West. (there's a company that Prof Klyser mentioned to me several months ago that looks promising... and YES, I do listen to the professor's suggestions! Even if I probably didn't spell his name right)

Two things

#1

 I've seen backdrop lighting and special effects like 3D relief done and am very leery. When visiting a well respected modeler and innovator in our hobby a long time ago the only thing about his amazing layout that I really didn't like was the special effects on the backdrop. Be careful with that, although if anybody could pull it off I sincerely believe it could be you do to your professional experience and the specific theme of your layout. From my perspective a "backdrop" should remain in the background or the foreground and all our hard work looks kind of tiny and inconsequential.

#2

You are absolutely correct to listen to the Prof. He is for real and knows his stuff. If he was talking about the Fantasonics scale sound system and the saloon scene.....it's a hoot.

Fine print Disclaimer.............I worked with Fantasonics for many years in my career as a recording engineer and if I'm not hallucinating (been known to happen) I recorded a lot of the voices for the saloon at my studio. Fantasonics was one of my favorite clients as the owner is a model railroader and dear friend so you can imagine what our sessions were like!

 Sorry if I veered off topic. 12' by 20' I can only dream of so go for it and have a blast!

The shed

 a shed 12 by 20 without windows would probably be easier to build yourself than buying and installing a pre-built shed. Either a concrete block foundation or set on piers( which would have to be done for a prefab shed anyway) One you have the foundation a floor is just some boards nailed together ,same for walls and roof.  Building yourself lets you bring home the pieces a few at a time as they are needed, spreading the cost out over the build time so when it's done you don't miss the money. Building the foundation one month, the floor the next couple of weekends, the walls next, etc. and before you know it you have a finished paid for shed.  My workshop/train room is 32 by 36 feet and it took me a summer of weekends and days off work to finish but it doesn't rain in Cali in the summer so no hurry.  Building a layout is way harder than building a small shed :> )    ......DaveB

Fantasonics...

That would be them, yes!

Thanks, everyone!

Yes, 2' x 2' flooring, inside-dimensions, out-swinging doors, HVAC suggestions, etc., are the kinds of tips I'm looking for! Good catch about O.D vs. I.D. on the shed dimensions. This is a long-term project so I have a lot of time to think about all this. Thanks again for everyone's suggestions! (Keep 'em coming!)

P.S. I love my Fantasonics "Big City" modern diesel CD and wouldn't dream of running my trains without it!

Pre-built shed vs. DIY:

DaveB: I know what you're saying is true. I've performed a fair amount of DIY projects around the house so I've garnered a few DIY skills, but I have no idea how to build the roof system. I know the TuffShed is expensive, but those prices include delivery and the on-site build. Also, the shed gets built in a single day. I suppose I could find plans somewhere for a slant-roof shed like the one I'm looking to buy from TuffShed, but I'm just not that confident in my ever-getting-it-finished factor if I go that route. However, even going just slightly bigger than 12' x 24' could be quite a bit nicer (e.g., 16' x 24').

Doesn't Rain in LA?

After last winter you know that is a load of @%$&*​ We are in SW MO and get a fair amount of rain. When we bought this house it was fall and we hadn't seen a lot of rain. Down sizing from around 3000sq ft to about 1200 sq ft was and still is a tight squeeze. So we bought a 12x24ft Cook shed. Cook makes some pretty good sheds. We call it our craft barn as I have one end for the trains and my wife has one end for her scrap booking and other craft stuff. It also has a loft in it for stuff that is considered to good to unload yet.

Buying it was not a snap decision. I looked at it from every direction I could think of and asked a lot of questions. They brought it in prebuilt and set it up. Leveled it out. Looked great. Nice and level, until the rains started the next spring. Well it turns out that the yard pretty much drains itself to about where the center of the shed is and THEN runs out between ours and the neighbors house. These sheds have long 4x6 runners that run the length of the building. Bricks were used to level out the building on 3 corners and all 3 stacks, less then a foot tall each sunk into the ground and the shed now rests on it's runners on a slant toward one corner.

The saving grace? for this project was that I spent the winter and spring putting in wiring, insulation and sheetrock. So by the time I got around to building my wife's work bench and my layout bench work it was done settling. Every month or so I lay a 4ft level on the layout and so far so good. I did add a separate electrical panel inside the shed. That has proven to be a good move. Putting in a cement pad might have avoided all this. Then again as soggy as the ground gets maybe not.

Then there is the AC. Before you put AC in Metrolink I would do some serious investigating into the life span of AC units. I can tell you that for a lot of them within any given model they either last of they go belly up really fast. Like a lot of other stuff they are made to break down so more are sold. Keeps sales up and stock holders happy with higher sales. A bit sinicale here I know. It cools it off just fine if it is run on high. The loft is closed off. At this point I am doing some experimenting with putting my layout in my already crowded office space and encouraging my wife to find a way to get her scrap booking stuff back inside too.

If you can afford it getting some sort of engineer in to look at what you want to do might be worth a whole lot of avoiding aggravation.

Jack 

Just saying

@Neil

I really enjoyed your dixierail website. Looks like a lot of fun running on such nice layouts.

Being a lifelong Californian living very close to the coast line I was particularly interested in the N scale layout based on our area. Nicely done with an excellent rendition of the golden color of summer here. A very minor point. The Louis in San Luis Obispo is incorrect. For some reason we don't put an "o" in Luis. Not nearly as bad as calling it Saint Louis Obispo! Locals tend to refer to it as San Luis in conversation. I'd better stand up for our neighbors to the south.....no "i" in Los Angeles. 

OK, enough of spelling....back to model railroading.

 "I suppose I could find

Plans for small sheds or generic out buildings are widely available. If I was building a bit larger say 16 by 24 I'd go with a gable roof instead of a shed roof to cut down on the size of rafters needed( shorter effective span for gable roof).  In Cali where the ground never freezes a simple concrete block foundation would be fine. If you have any friends that are handy with tools you might hold some shed raising parties to get the heavy work done. Building a shed by yourself is like a long journey, one board at a time, but non of the tasks require as much skill as painting and decaling an engine or installing a sound decoder. :> )   ......DaveB 

Layout in its Own Shed

Seems as though a number of folks are choosing this route. I'm doing an HO layout in a 12x16 Handi-house shed. It sits on the rear concrete drive way of my carport. One nice thing about it being under the carport roof is I get a double insulation from the direct rays of the sun,,,in FLORIDA. Big help with keeping things much cooler.

I insulated it between the 2x4 studding, and I am using Masonite board to surface over that as its much lighter in weight and cheaper, and paintable and thinner 1/8 inch, etc.

You are doing N scale so you should be able to get quite a large layout in your space,..if you are so inclined.

Your description of your previous benchwork for a n scale train seems to me to be way overbuilt.

I'm using Home Depot brackets just like yours on a large portion of the layout. Most of my lower shelfs (dbl deck) will be 5/8 inch plywood subroadbed with foam risers, My upper decks will likely be just 2" foam roadbed

blog referenced below

Good Luck
Brian

BTW, I found my shed (like brand new) by placing a 'watch listing' on Craigslist. ...paid half the cost of a new one.

It Never Rains In Southern California - The Song

Sorry Metrolink, didn't mean to semi-hijack your thread with a reference to a song (It Never Rains in Southern California, a 1973 hit by Albert Hammond).  Guess that’s what I get for trying to be clever.  The entire chorus reveals the whole story.

Seems it never rains in southern California

Seems I've often heard that kind of talk before

It never rains in California, but girl, don't they warn ya?

It pours, man, it pours…

Anyway, good luck with your endeavors.

A Few Other Things to Consider

Hi Metrolink,

No obscure music references this time.  A few other things to consider. 

Depending on local requirements, permits and various inspections will most likely be required to construct your shed.  Of course, there will be time and cost associated with these.  You may also want to check the building codes during your planning to be sure nothing unforeseen springs up.

If you live in a subdivision with a homeowner’s association, the dreaded covenants and restrictions may contain some requirements on the finish, size and placement of your shed.  Apparently, some homeowner’s associations don’t allow detached structures at all.

You will most likely be paying additional property tax on your shed.  You may also look to increase your homeowner’s insurance to cover the shed as well as the contents.

To help in your decision making as whether to have the shed built for you or DYI, be sure to consider the value of your time and how much time you have to devote to building and finishing work.  I considered building from the ground up myself, but with work and family commitments, I didn’t have the time.  I done a combination of both.  I bought the building and had the electric and drywall done by others, but have done all of the other work myself. 

If you consider a shed with a gable roof and plan to insulate and enclose the loft/attic area, be sure to provide for ventilation, same as you would in a house.  Finally, don’t short yourself on the air conditioning.  A PTAC unit sized for your building will run you a couple thousand dollars, but will provide long service.  

Permits, etc.

Thanks for all your comments, Mtneer. Yup, got most of that covered.  My city only allows sheds up to 10' x 10' so, technically, I would have to permit it as a permanent structure. About $1,500 for a soil-engineer, then the regular permitting fees for construction and electric.

The current planned location already has a 3/4" gravel-base, and the yard already has a slight grade, so drainage has never been an issue. Plus, living in a beach city, the "soil" is mostly sand. I was thinking of re-grading (to be more level) with more gravel, then filling the gaps with paver sand or similar. This would only work if installing it as a "shed" and not a permanent structure. A permanent structure would require either a pier-foundation or concrete-slab to pass inspection.

Since I live near the beach, temps are often pretty tolerable, but there are a few days in the summer that get a bit warm. I bought this 6,000BTU Friedrich remote-controlled, wall-mount AC unit for only $200 on Amazon that I installed in the master bedroom, and it looks and works great. This, I think, is its third or fourth summer of service.

The more I think about it, the more I think 12' x 24' isn't deep enough since my current layout, though designed as 144" in width, is actually about 146" in width. So the smaller I.D. of the 12' x 24' shed wouldn't even fit my current layout. Lots to think about.

The DIY route makes the most sense (plus, going a bit larger than 12' x 24'), but I already have a ton of DIY projects yet to be completed on the house, so, again, my confidence is low in completing yet another rather significant DIY project.

12 x 20 outbuilding

l live in Houston, very hot, very humid.  I built a 12 x 20 outside dimensioned building for my MRR.  If I had to do it over, I would have gone with 14 x 20.  That extra 2 feet would have made a LOT of difference with the RR.  Central heat and air, 1.5 ton w/ 7kw electric heat.  I've only needed the heat, set at 68F, when I'm not in there.  For heat, all I have to do is turn on all the lights!  Add up all the wattage and convert to BTU, don't forget to allow 400BTU for each person, and size a system to be just undersized to provide for dehumidification. 

Provide for make-up air and install an exhaust fan.  EVERYTHING will emit fumes of some kind and exhausting them out is great.

I put the door on the end of one of the long sides for easy access from the patio.  A better idea would have been on the shorter end, RR-wise.

Install a sub-panel!

Built on a slab- stability is a given, even with our clay soil.

I put outlets in every 4 feet all the way around.  Not for load, but primarily for convenience while building.  The RR doesn't need much.  Did I mention the lighting?!  6 each 2-tube T8 for 'house' lights, plus under/behind valence singleT8 tubes for the layout, a 3 deck (counting staging).  I used tubes to get the lumens and CRI I wanted.

STORAGE is a paramount requirement.

I built it one stick at a time as time permitted over one summer.  It's probably overbuilt, hurricane clips on all studs and rafters on 16 inch centers, but stout as can be.  Gabled roof.  Sheathed, tyvek , Hardy board clad, vented soffit, ridge vent, standard shingled.  I drew the plans myself using a simple 2D drafting SW.  I did/do have some construction/fabrication experience.

NO windows! except in the door, which opens inward.  ( If it is a building and not a shed, fire code requires it open in, not out).  Windows leak air and heat.  The daylight would be nice, but....it would cost more to cool and dehumidify, not to mention the security issue.  In the winter I have to put a bucket of water in there to keep RH above 20%!  only one occasion of track heaving.

Hope these words are of some value to your plans

Doug H.