parkerlocoworks

After befriending an old trainmaster for the Arizona & California Railroad and seeing the exceptional work here at The Railwire, I wanted to try my hand at modeling with more of a prototype focus.  I've always been a fan of GP35's and the A&C has one particular locomotive that is an ex-SP unit that has some neat detail that would push my modeling skills and hopefully teach me some things. I decided to build two of these locomotives so I would have the extra practice and two unique pieces of equipment.  The prototype is ARZC 3503, ex-SP 6356. I'm still earning about the nuances with EMD units and their rebuilds, so there are a few details on these that are not correct.

Photos to follow in the next few posts...
 

Doug M.

Parker, CO

Protolancing the Arizona & California RR in N scale

 

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parkerlocoworks

Initial Build


I started with two Atlas/Kato GP35's and stripped them down.  The first thing to do was model the old SP light package. I used various styrene shapes to build the clusters and plates and used Archer rivet decals for the bolts. Detail Associates pyle headlights were used for the actual light housings. I also modified the pilots and built the plates at the bottom with styrene. I've never been a fan of the BLMA MU hoses, they are 2 dimensional and I've never had luck making them look good. They also do not have the small angle iron above the hoses which I think is a really neat little detail. I used the smallest styrene channel I could find, cut it in half then sanded it down to create those angles. The MU hoses will come later using 0.008" brass wire. A lot of detail parts from BLMA, GMM and Miniatures by Eric came next. Lift rings, a bell, cab sunshades, windshield wipers, trainline airhose, MU stands, cut levers, fans, drop steps and an Atlas horn.  The BLMA sunshades are very flimsy and I'm not happy how they came out at the end, I'll be using GMM parts from now on. I also built the brass handrails at this point with 0.010"x0.018" brass bar for stanchions and 0.008" wire.

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Doug M.

Parker, CO

Protolancing the Arizona & California RR in N scale

 

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parkerlocoworks

Painting

Next came paint. I used Tru Color paints for these two. First up was a light coat of grey primer, followed by a base coat of white. I then masked the units for the green. The green used is Reading Green, it's nice to have a railroad color and not a custom mixed one. The color of the MicroScale decals matches perfectly. The trucks were painted silver.

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Doug M.

Parker, CO

Protolancing the Arizona & California RR in N scale

 

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parkerlocoworks

Decals and Final Detailing

Decals followed starting with the numbers and stripes on the cab. I use the stripes here to help locate them down the hood. Next came the roadname and stripes down the hood. I cut individual decal stripes to go all the way around the sill, between each stanchion and around the pilots. Once the decals were done, I did the detail painting on the handrails and cut levers. After that was done, I added the MU hoses and painted those, I'm very happy with the final look of the hoses. I added the grabirons and painted them the correct color based on location. Finally, the unit went back into the paintbooth for a final clearcoat and then they were assembled.

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Doug M.

Parker, CO

Protolancing the Arizona & California RR in N scale

 

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Allen H.

Very Nice!

Nice job on the 35's Doug!

Very striking....

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Ken Glover kfglover

Nice

Good job Doug!

Ken Glover,

HO, Digitrax, Soundtraxx PTB-100, JMRI (LocoBuffer-USB), ProtoThrottle (WiThrottle server)

View My Blog

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pschmidt700

Great modeling, Doug!

I'm jealous! The uncoupling levers and MU hoses are excellent. Wanna take a shot at detailing my Southern Geep 38s?
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parkerlocoworks

Thank you!

Quote:

I'm jealous! The uncoupling levers and MU hoses are excellent.

Thanks Paul! This is the last time I'll use BLMA uncoupler levers as they are a pain to install and the last set had a bad etch. I'll be using Trainworx or bending my own in the future. I've got a GP7 on the workbench with custom bent levers because I needed the early style. The MU hoses are actually very easy to do. I cut a piece of 0.008 wire 1/4" long, then put a bend in it at 3/16", then crimp the end of the wire with flat jaw pliers to create the gladhand. Drill your holes in the pilot, glue and paint, super easy.

It took me many models to get to this point, I just dove in head first to detailing on day and have learned many things. Give it a try, if I had time, and my health was better, I'd be happy to help you, but can't right now. The most difficult thing to detail on these was the handrails, those took a lot of wasted wire on multiple models. 

Doug M.

Parker, CO

Protolancing the Arizona & California RR in N scale

 

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