David Husman dave1905

I am just about finished with the highway overpass where Dupont Rd. goes over the B&O near Elsmere Jct.   The B&O  (staging) goes through the backdrop and I needed a way to hide the hole.  Fortuetously, I found that S. Dupont road goes over the B&O right about where I needed an overpass, and that road crossed back in my era (according to old USGS topo maps).  Here is a Google Maps Satellite view of the area.  The W&N run NW to SE and the B&O runs SW to NE, the junction is under the Highway 2 marker in the middle, the overpass in my era would be where Old Dupont Rd would have crossed the B&O.

Map.PNG 

I used a overpass design based on wooden overpasses near Reading, PA.  It was scratchbuilt out of Evergreen styrene with Tichy NBW and "rivet" castings.

BridgeEJ.jpg 

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

Blog index:  Dave Husman Blog Index

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Al Carter tabooma county rwy

Nice job, Dave....

It will be neat to see you apply the finish coloring and weathering to this bridge.

Al Carter

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David Husman dave1905

Approaches

Thanks, currently working on the scenery on the approaches.  Hopefully more progress after this weekend.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

Blog index:  Dave Husman Blog Index

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Deemiorgos

Looks good, Dave. I also like

Looks good, Dave. I also like your track work and ballasting. It is going to be a nice unique scene when finished.

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FranG

Nice solution

Great idea on using the bridge. I enjoy seeing your progress as it brings back good memories as I railfanned this area (and the W&N) in the late 1960's & 1970's while growing up in north Wilmington. 

You might try this site for more info of the area:

https://www.historicaerials.com/viewer

Fran Giacoma

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David Husman dave1905

W&N

I was looking for something  to hide it and the historic aerials site was where I figured out that the road crossed right where I needed one.  The W&N is a nice mix of heavy industry, urban and rural on a single track railroad.  Its very hard to railfan because it twists and turns through the woods and getting a clear shot of anything is pretty tough.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

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FranG

Elsmere Jct.

Here is a picture of DuPont Rd I took when it was  a grade crossing in July 1972. A bridge replaced this in the early 1980's. 

Fran Giacoma

9%20copy.jpg ​

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Dave.S58

Full image

Here is the whole image, click to make larger

9%20copy.jpg 

DaveS

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David Husman dave1905

Thanks

Thanks for the pix, the crossing was probably at grade in the 1900's too, but I won't tell anybody if you won't.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

Blog index:  Dave Husman Blog Index

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FranG

Elsmere Jct.

Dave H - my lips are sealed!

Dave S58 - thanks for resizing my picture.

Fran Giacoma

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A_Hansen

Nice to see Wilmington, DE represented

Nice solution for the overpass and concealing the staging entrance. And it's great to see another modeler focused on the Wilmington, DE area and history. I am working on buildings and plans for modeling a portion of the Harlan and Hollingsworth car shops on the Christina River, circa 1925, when my wife's great grandfather worked there. There is great rail history here!

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David Husman dave1905

Evolution of the Scene

This post will give the overall evolution of the Elsmere Jct scene.  Its really not finished yet, the tower is a stand in and the B&O crossing has to be made, plus interlocking signals at some point.  But he's how I got to where I am.

Here is the scene back in June 2017 with the cardboard mock up of the bridge and raw scenery.

Oelsmere.jpg 

Decided to scratch build the bridge.  The tracks are laid with extra space between B&O #1 and #2 to accommodate the bent. Originally it was two equal spans but I found that that created too close a clearance on the curve of the B&O connection track and would have possibly fouled the switchstand for the connection switch.  So I cut the bridge apart and added about an inch to the right span and rebuilt the bridge.  The right abutment is on a foam block and the left is on a piece of plastic angle glued to the backdrop.

BridgeEJ.jpg 

I mocked up the landforms and used brown paper to give me an idea of what it whould look like.  1/2 inch blue foam was used for terrain forms.  I had thought about putting two small commercial structures (non-rail served) in the scene but may only do one. 

IMG_1851.JPG 

The foam was covered with newspaper strips soaked in runny plaster.  It was painted with "dirt" color latex paint and then the roads and any "dirt" areas had sanded grout sprinkled into the wet paint.  The road in particular received a couple coats of paint and grout.

I also modified the stock Walthers tower with a taller roof so it would more closely resemble the actual EJ tower and it got a quicky coat of P&R "chocolate and vanilla" paint.  

IMG_1898.JPG 

IMG_1899.JPG 

The scenery start moving north, with thinned white glue painted on the landforms in about half a square foot areas, then a little ground foam and a mix of Woodland Scenics, Noch and Peco grass fibers in several different length, all in golden yellow and muted green, fall type colors.  On the backdrop I brush painted some weeds sticking up at the edge of the right of way.  I have a small straw wisk broom that I cut small groups of ibers out of and then stick in a spot of white glue to make taller stands of weeds.

IMG_1984.JPG 

The North side of the B&O was next, with the scenic material being placed in patches over a period of several days.  Clumps of ground foam foliage in fall colors and muted greens were applied plus the straw weeds.  I also added Woodland Scenics fibers to make finer stands of weeds.

Quote:

IMG_1989.JPG 

IMG_1993.JPG 

The bridge abutments were made from Chooch flexible retaining wall material.  Not the easiest stuff to work with.  I made a plastic core for the abutment and then tried a couple different methods of attaching the Chooch material.  The "self stick" didn't work at all.  Finally used adhesive caulk and clamped the Chooch material to the plastic while it set.  I painted and weathered the abutment and the leftover piece of Chooch material.  Since the abutment on the wall had to be very low relief, I scanned the leftover Chooch wall and cut out a paper abutment, rubber cementing it to the backdrop.  I ended up with a wall that is literally paper thin and matches the other abutment perfectly.

I also broke down and scratch built some railings for the bridge, it just looked odd without them.

IMG_2011.JPG 

The bridge was painted with TruColor Acrylic paint (I wanted to test the paint, worked well, but not sure about the acetone thinner and base).

IMG_2031.JPG IMG_2033.JPG 

The bridge was weathered with some airbrushed craft paints.

IMG_2037.JPG 

IMG_2038.JPG 

I still have to fix the backdrop tree line near the left abutment and then continue the backdrop painting to the right of the road.  But for now I think its a nice scene.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

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Eric Hansmann Eric H.

Sweet!

Nice work on the scene development, Dave! The bridge does a good job of defining the area and limiting the view. Good to see a wagon with horses on the scene. We have forgotten how long animals were used in teams to move the local goods. I plan on having a few on my mid-1920s layout.

Keep up the good work!

Eric

 

 

Eric Hansmann
Contributing Editor, Model Railroad Hobbyist

Follow along with my railroad modeling:
http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/

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ChrisS

Great looking scene, Dave!

Great looking scene, Dave! Always happy to see some early rail over here!

valley20.jpg 

Freelancing 1907 Southern Utah in Sn3

http://redrocknarrowgauge.blogspot.com/

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Al Carter tabooma county rwy

Adhering Chooch Walls

Dave,

I was talking with Mike O'Connell, owner of Chooch, relating to him the difficulty I too had in adhering the self-adhesive Chooch walls to a sub-base.  He informed me that the walls need an absolutely smooth surface to stick to, like styrene or smooth masonite or something.  He also said that using a heat gun helps, if there is a corner that lifts or something.  

My first attempt with a Chooch wall was to adhere it to a piece of pink foam, that had been cut with a saw (not smooth).  Really struggled with that wall and ended up using Loctite Power Grab For Foam with plenty of weights and clamps and it finally stuck.  Lesson learned.  Now I make sure I have a smooth surface and the walls adhere well, at least for me.

Nice trick making a photo copy of the wall for that thin application!  And your scene is really coming together very nicely!

Al Carter

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David Husman dave1905

Thanks

Thanks for the feedback guys!

I tried the Chooch adhesive on smooth plastic and it wouldn't stick at the edges, I bought two packages of the medium cut stone wall and couldn't get the paper to peel off the back (looked like it was over heated and permanently adhered to the wall) so changed to the random stone, got that to peel but it wouldn't stick worth a darn.  Tried double stick tape, no dice.  Finally used acrylic adhesive caulk and that was about 95% successful and the places it didn't adhere weren't visible.  I was hoping to use it along several streams and docks that had stone retaining walls, but I may have to make a mold of it and cast wall sections from resin or plaster.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

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ufffam

Elsmere Junction

Returned to Newark DE in June 1970 after USMC and went to U of D. Flew helicopters out of the Wilmington airport with a couple of B&O engineers so we would chase trains on the B&O and Pennsy on the government dime. Mock gun runs and rocket attacks in urban areas to keep our Vietnam era skill set sharp. Worked at Dorsman's to feed my train habit.

You are doing a good job Dave.

Bill Uffelman Ocean View Delaware

 

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