Is this a newer Atlas product?  If so, the throwbar may snap onto to the metal point rails and is easy to swap out.  Use a small screwdriver to carefully pry each point out of the throwbar (gently rotate the point away from the attachment location - there's a hole in the point that snaps onto a plastic projection on the throwbar). Last, reverse the throwbar orientation to your liking, then snap the points back in.

I recently installed a lot of Atlas track in my staging yard, and reversed a number of throwbars as described above.

As for the "switch machine" issue, that may be a bit more complex as typically Atlas machines are intended for installation on one side only.  (I'll admit I haven't used an Atlas machine in many years though so I'm not sure that still holds true.)  If you're OK mounting the machine using adhesive it wouldn't matter if the machine snaps or screws into the ties on the "wrong" side of the turnout.   If you're going to use some kind of manual throw like a Caboose Industries throw, the Atlas machine mount won't matter at all.  The extra-long ties with the mounting holes (on the Code 100 wyes) can be shortened to normal length if the modified appearance bothers you.

wp8thsub: Thank you very much for your input. It was exactly what I was looking for. Upon further investigation I tried installing the so called "correct" switch machine to the wye and found that the throw bar was to short to engage the switch machine. Cutting the ties back might work here, or as you suggest using adhesive. Have you had any experience with Atlas's under table switch machines? Would this be a better alternative? Is it possible to purchase different length throwbars?  Thanks again for your advice.

Al,

I've had experience with the Atlas under table switch machines; in fact, I have about a dozen of them now sitting on my shelf.  I'm not going to bash the Atlas units; however, I removed the Atlas ones that I had and replaced them with the Tortise units which I LOVE.  Yes, the Tortise are more expensive but I believe that they are worth it - plus you get isolated electrical contacts to use for indicator lights or other uses.

Rick

Have you had any experience with Atlas's under table switch machines? Would this be a better alternative?

Al,

Under the table would be the way I would go.  However, you don't have to buy an under the table machine.  A fellow I met on another forum has used many regular Atlas switch machines under the table simply by constructing a simple linkage from a piece of brass tube and a paper clip.

I'm not on my main system right now, but I think I have an image of what he built that would explain itself.

Edit:  Here is the image I mentioned along with the text from Lee's description of the linkage.  Credit for the idea, images and explanation goes to Lee aka Yankee Flyer!

Lee Wrote:

I built this adapter as a rough prototype.
the paper clip is inserted in the small tube before it is bent so it doesn't have to be soldered.
I cut a small piece of the larger tube (1/8") to use as a bearing so the crank would not bind.
The larger tube extends about a (1/4") below the deck.
Smooth all pieces with a very fine file. I use a very fine diamond emery board.
Glue the outer tube in place, I put some glue on the middle of it and slide it up from the bottom so that I don't get the glue inside it.
Next drop the arm in from the top with the bearing on it. You can point the lower arm in the direction that has room for the Atlas motor and solder it to the tube. Align the motor with the arm. Of course pre-fit and check all parts before securing them.
Also I found it best to attach the motor to a !/4" thick piece of Masonite that is 1/2" wider than the motor with pointer hanging off the end. Lock the switch blades in middle tape motor slide in middle slide pointer in loop put one screw in front end of Masonite, you can rotate back end until get proper action. Choose paper clips that fit smoothly in brass tubes with no slop and even the loop at bottom must be right size with little slop.
Rather than  a paper clip, I suggest you use piano wire.  Paper clips are made of soft wire that bends easily.
Piano wire is inexpensive, and is made from much better material than a paper clip.

Instead of having the crank above the throw bar, you can accomplish the same with a sideways bell-crank attached below. An elongated hole as used w/ a switch motor is needed under the throw bar. Of coarse this won't be feasible on a thick foam based layout w/o a fairly stiff wire.

 

"Is it possible to purchase different length throwbars?"

Not that I know of. You can use some sort of linkage to connect the machine to the existing throwbar if needed.  You could also try to scratchbuild a new throwbar from styrene or engineering plastic and figure out a way to mount it to the Atlas points.  That's probably more trouble than it's worth.  An under-the-table switch machine mount as the other replies have noted may be your best bet.

I used atlas HO twin coil machines for years on my various laouts under the table to throw my N scale tunrouts.  I made a pretty simple, easier then a crank I think, linkage that is easy to install.  Here is a link to a blog entry on another forum with details. http://www.nscale.net/forums/entry.php?126-HO-Atlas-Switch-motors-under-the-table.

I do have to say, that as good as those HO motors were, I ended up trading them all in for servos and a Tam Valley system.  Much happier now especially when since the twin coils are a little hard on custom made turnouts.

Here is a link to a blog entry on another forum with details.http://www.nscale.net/forums/entry.php?126-HO-Atlas-Switch-motors-under-the-table.

It's too bad the forum requires registration to read your blog.  I'd like to see what you did but I don't want to have to register to see it.  Would you consider reposting the info in this thread or creating a blog post at MRH.  If it's too much trouble, I do understand.

Since I'm looking into N-Scaling, I did register. And I still couldn't read that post. I could see other forums on that site, and browsed other posts. But this Atlas one was blocked for some reason.

~Ken

Odd thatyou could not see it... I have copied it and pasted it here.

------------

I have been trying to come up with a way to use HO Atlas switch motors for under table use on N-scale switches for a number of years. I have been successful with a few different methods, but I think I have finally come up with a way that is a bullet proof as I can make it. I am using plywood sub roadbed, but could be adapted to about anything.

The reasons I wanted to use HO switch motors is because they are cheap. You can get them for around $2.50 each if you search around at shows and on-line. Many HO folks graduate from these to Tortoise. Why don’t I just use tortoise? They cost A LOT and are harder to install and require a lot of under the layout work.

In order to use my current method you will need just a few supplies.

Atlas HO switch motor (left or right)
Thin music wire
Drip irrigation tubing
Split shot (fishing weights)
Thin plastic (I use the clear hard blister-pack that most items come in..Free!!)
Medium CA
CA Accelerator
Double sided foam tape or Velcro or ???

Tools
½” drill bit
Electric drill
Small drill bit (size to go through turnout throw rod)
Pin vise
Needle nose pliers


Sub assemblies first.

Cut the plastic into 1” squares
Cut music wire into 2 inch pieces.
Cut tubing into 1.5” pieces.
(None of these sizes are critical. I hate to measure. These are estimates)
Modify the switch motor. Fold 1 piece of music wire in half making a loop and CA the non loop ends into the plastic tubing so you have a loop at the end. CA the tubing and loop assembly onto the output arm of the HO switch motor. Be careful not to get all over the place or the switch motor will stop working (grin)
Make a toggle. Attach and CA a piece of split shot to one of the thin wires in the middle.