3D printed model

I was able to find a set of drawings for this car, or at least close to this car on eBay.  

Using this, I was able to create a 3D version of this using the Sketchup 3D modeling program.  From there, I was able to print it out using Shapeways.  This is how it turned out. 

Side view

top view

bottom view

 There isn't a lot of information on these as they are pretty old.  They were used to dump ballast or cinders between the rails.  In designing this 3D model, I tried to keep it relatively plain so that others could detail it to their own roads prototype.  There were apparently 40' versions of these as well.  It is believed that these were painted in the Illinois Terminal Brewster Green with white lettering.  I plan on adding couplers and trucks, queen posts, turnbuckles, K brakes, grab irons and stirrup steps as best guessed from the picture above.  

Amazing!

That's really cool, I'm always amazed at what 3D printing can do. I've purchased a couple of 3D printed object and have been impressed with the detail possible. Nice work.

couplers and trucks

Thanks for the kind comment Chris.  

I decided to use Tahoe Model Works 5' wheelbase arch bar trucks as that is the closest I could find to the prototype, and they have a great reputation as well.  As you can see below, I added some styrene as I wanted to mount the trucks a little further from the hopper so that it will negotiate my planned 10" radius.  I used super glue to attached the box of the Kadee coupler with its ears removed.  I then drilled and tapped holes for 2-56 screws for the couplers and trucks.  I am using Kadee's whisker couplers.  

Here it is on the test module I have built.  It negotiated a 10" radius like this, but I might need to file on the hopper bottom just a tad to smooth it up a little bit.  

I am really happy with how the print turned out.  I tried to measure the height of the trucks  and couplers so I wouldn't have to shim anything, and apparently got it pretty spot on.  Next up will be to add the details once they arrive in the mail.  I plan on putting weight in the hopper and just making it a permanent load to weigh it down.  The IT used a lot of cinders, so it will be a cinder load when done, just in case you are curious.  

Nicely done!

I'm following along and look forward to seeing what you choose for truss rods, queen posts and turnbuckles, as well as brake rigging. 

How do you clean up the print for painting?

Great model

That's an amazing turnout from finding an obscure photograph to creating a model for your layout. Well done. Please post images of the complete model.

Replies...

@Thomas - thanks for the kind words.

@Neil - I plan on using Tichy parts for the underbody details. The 8021 turnbuckle, the 3074 10" queen posts, and the 3005 K brake.  I'm not sure how the brake components actually attach as the drawings I have don't show them, only the hand brake staff and wheel.  Apparently Rodgers car company had a lot of plans, but didn't build a lot as different railroads modified their plans for their own purposes. That is the plan at least. As far as cleaning the print, the plan is to just use a degreaser like Shout to remove any of the residue on the surface, then prime and paint as normal.  The print seems to be pretty crisp and clean, no filling seems necessary.  

 "The print seems to be

Shapeways must have improved their process, when I built some printed cars a few years ago the prints were very rough like sandpaper. Are you going to add the sideboards with I T S lettering later? ......DaveB 

Reply to DaveB

It seems to be pretty smooth, especially in the vertical and horizontal plane.  The sloped part I guess is a little rough, but it won't be seen much.  I printed out some passenger car sides a couple of months ago and they seemed to be pretty smooth.  I guess I will see when it gets painted. 

Yes, I plan on adding the side boards.  I ordered scale 2 x 10's for that.  I wanted to leave the Rodgers car as generic as possible in case anyone else was interested in getting one for themselves.  The other pictures I have of Rodgers cars don't have those sideboards, only the IT one.  

Doug

"Yes, I plan on adding the

That's a good plan, scale 2 by 10 should look fine and others will appreciate you making the basic car in the more common style. These will be great looking models when finished. ....DaveB

Update - details

I have started adding the details to my Illinois Terminal Rodgers ballast car.  Below you can see the scale 2 x 10s that represent the side board extentions.  I used some thicker paper for the corner braces.   

These are Tichy stirrup steps.  A hole was drilled and they were super glued in place.  

These are Tichy 10" queenposts.  I drilled a small hole as well for where they were attached to the sprue and then super glued them in place.  This 34' car had four truss rods.  The longer 40' version had six truss rods.  

These are Tichy turnbuckles.  The wire is floral wire left over from Furnaro and Carmerlengo resin kits.  The turnbuckles were drilled out with a #77 drill bit then the wire inserted into place.  This is how I left them over night.  I put a little more supper glue on and will let them throughly dry and harden over night.  Tomorrow I will bend the floral wire and glue it into place.  

So far so good.  Pretty pleased at this point.  Next will be finishing the truss rods, adding some grab irons and the brake detail, then some final Rodger car specific details.  

Doug

Nice project car...

Doug,

Very nice build so far.  Nice way of demonstrating how to model a car that isn't on the market using new technology available to modelers.  Are you going to paint and decal this car for the Illinois Terminal?  It will look good being pulled behind your class A IT on your other blog.

Dave

Reply to Dave

Hey, thanks.  Yes, it will hopefully look like the picture that leads off the blog.  I plan on painting it Brewster Green as apparently all early Illinois Traction stuff was this color.  I also plan on using a white alphabet decal set to letter it.  I'm toying with the idea of using a "white" Sharpe, if there is such a thing, to do the smaller lettering.  Here is a picture of my class A pulling the Rodgers car on my practice module that I have built.  I'm looking forward to getting them painted and decaled.  

Update

I finished the truss rods.  I trimmed them to length and then glued the ends against the inside frames.  Next up is the K brake instillation.  Does anyone have any clue as to how a K brake might have been installed on one of these things?

Thanks for looking. 

Where can I get one?

Doug,

Did you say these cars are avilable?  Where could I order one or two for myself?  Where did you get your detail parts?  Can you provide a list of materials to build the car?

Thanks,

Dave

  "I'm toying with the idea

As far as I know they don't make white sharpies. The closest thing I've found is a white gel pen. I use the pens for thin white graffiti but they would be kinda hard to control doing fine lettering, they also need to be coated with dull coat or they will run if the lettering gets wet. I'd look into generic data sheets for the small lettering either decals or transfers.....DaveB

Replies...

@DaveB - thank for the heads up on the Sharpies... I'll start looking for early data sets. 

@Dave - thanks for asking. One can be purchased in my Shapeways store here.  The detail parts I ordered on line.  About twenty bucks in detail parts got me enough for two.  The trucks are Diamond Archbar Tahoe Model Works trucks.  Here are the parts.

Northeastern Scale Lumber HO 2" by 10"

Tichy #3021 18" grabirons

Tichy #3005 KC Brake Gear

Tichy #8021 Turnbuckles

Tichy #3038 Stirrup Steps Side mount

Tichy #3074 10" High Queenposts

​The green wire is small diameter florists wire left over from F&C kits. 

Tahoe Model Works 5-foot wheelbase arch bar trucks can be ordered at Resin Car Works. 

The Brewster Green I will use was ordered from the Illinois Traction Society

No idea on the decals yet.  

White Sharpie's...

...are available. I got one from office depot.

I think decals would look better though!

...

Drilling holes???  Add them to the master file!!!

update

I installed the brake wheel and grab irons both of which are made by Tichy Train group. 

This is the K brake.  I have no idea how this was suppose to fit in there so I am taking my best guess.  I will leave the piping off for now as it won't really be seen and again I have no idea what it was suppose to look like.  The brakes are not on the drawings that I have. 

Oh, and I primed it so I could "see" it a little better.  Trying to drill tiny holes in clearish plastic is difficult.  A few more details then it will be ready for paint.  Time to find some decals. 

Wow, great work

Looks like you have created a unique and interesting car. Well done. 

Brake gear arrangement

While not exactly the same as your car my prototype (Hudson Bay Mining and Smelting) had a Hart ballast car of a similar design.  They used the car until around 2000 (!).  The car had split K brake gear but the piping layout might be applicable to your car.  I plan to scratchbuild this car at some point since there was only one car on the prototype.  Hope this is useful for you. 

Marc Simpson

Finished bottom

I decided to go ahead and add some underbody detail.  I have no idea if the brake piping is correct, but it is my best guess.  Not much room to put that stuff in.  This is the finished underframe from the bottom view. 

Here you can see the five "chains" that were used to open and close the doors that would have been on the bottom.  

This is the side with the brake stuff.  There is a lot of stuff going on in a small space.  

The only thing left is to somehow fabricate a lever latch type of thing on the end where the pipe was rotated to open and close the doors.  Then it is painting and decaling from there.  

Nice Build

Doug,

Nice build.  I am looking forward to seeing it finished and being pulled behind your Class A project engine.  Next you will need one of those AMB IT caboose kits.

Dave

3D print

nice