Nice Trick...

I'll start doing that on my next batch of turnouts.

pqe

Very interesting!

Seems like a really good way of addressing the problem.  Thanks for sharing it.

Bart Hollis

Great idea!

cant wait to try it!

thanks

Great idea

Ome of those, why didn't I think of that moments! 

I might add that your turnout is beautifully done. 

I've always been curious if

I've always been curious if you guys that solder to Copper clad have any broken solder joints?

I've been doing a method that a friend taught me that involves using small pins that can freely pivot. The throw bar is FR4 (same material used in PCBs).  You have to bend the pins a couple of different ways...but the end result is no broken joints. 

I solder 3/32 brass bar to

I solder 3/32 brass bar to the points before installing them in the switch. Then I solder the point/brass combo to the throw bar after laying the point and connecting rails. I also use more than one throw bar. I have at least two in the smaller switches and at least 3 in the larger ones. By making the brass throw rod halves, it solves two issues. The first being that soldering to the throwbar is done further from the stock rail and there is more contact surface for the solder to adhere to, thus making a stronger joint.

Thanks!

Thanks for the encouragement, Neil!

I take the process of building turnouts very slow. I’m not in a hurry and I like to tinker with the dimensions, etc., until everything looks and works perfectly. To me that’s part of the fun. I have an advantage over other modelers perhaps because I only need to build 10 turnouts for my layout. So, what’s the rush?

The turnout on the other side of the runaround is a curved #12, so I’ll have my work cut out for me. 

Another thing that slows down the process is I’m powering all the rail under the rail base, so I have to be precise on wire placement, etc. Still fun though. 

Craig: 

I’m using silver bearing solder only for the points and it’s very strong. I don’t think I’ll have any broken points because I’ll be throwing the switch via G-scale switch stands a la Trevor Marshall. (See photo below.) With the stands I’ll be able to throw the switch in real time and adjust the point pressure against the stock rails to just what’s necessary. Plus, if one should ever break it’s a very easy and quick fix. 

Great tip

About to start building turnouts so this is a great tip.

Side question, where did you get that vice? Been looking for something similar.

Excellent!

Especially since I spiked down the points on two turnouts and am going to put in the throwbars tonight or tomorrow.

Works well!

I had a point that had been a bugger to repair. @Craig - YES! They can come off the PCB especially if, like me, you don't like to see the big blob of solder. After painting it becomes even harder to clean and repair so this trick along with flux worked great. Here is a shot before cleaning up.  I generally file down the "blob" but this one may just get painted. 

@Nsmapaul - your switches put this to shame! 

The ties aren't gapped btw since the rails are dead and engines battery powered.

Those G scale switch stands are amazing! How will you mount those?

Small vice

Hi Greg,

I picked up the small vice at a hobby shop closeout sale. It has no manufacturing markings but I found it on Amazon for $36. I did another search and found it here for $28:

http://www.zakjewelrytools.com/collections/vises/products/foredom-zinc-die-cast-mini-vise

​It works very nice being portable because I can clamp rail for fine-tune filing right at the layout. And as you saw it works great as a weight, too.

Switch stands

Hi Neil:

I’ll mount the G-scale stands similar to what Trevor Marshall did on his layout:

http://themodelrailwayshow.com/cn1950s/?p=395

I won’t be modifying the stands connection point like Trevor did, nor will I be using chains and locks.

I was fascinated when I read about how he used the stands and since my layout only has 10 turnouts I had to go the same route. I’ll be painting and weathering the stands so they look realistic. 

@nsmapaul

Those points look fabulous!  Is that HO scale or larger?  I'd love to see more on your construction techniques.

Switch Stands

Thanks Scott. That is similar to what Lance is doing with padlocks. The idea to slow down the way we do things give "play value" is interesting. 

I'm too far down the line for these but it did give me an idea for a couple turnouts that are too far to reach. 

Awesome idea

Thank you for sharing. I always hope Fast Tracks will come up with a better, ready made throw bar for the points. One with notches or grooves to lock onto the foot of the rails. A better place to attach solder. 

point soldering

Such a simple yet effective solution.  I make all my turnouts and this will be a tremendous help.  Thanks for sharing.

                                  Joan

@Alan Rice

Thank you sir, this is HO Proto87. I will do a post and video on how I put these together. 

Switch Stands

Hi Scott:

Nice to see I inspired somebody with those. You'll have fun with them. I do.

Cheers!

- Trevor

Great set of posts.  Good

Great set of posts.  Good info here (and thanks for the answers to my question guys).

 "I always hope Fast Tracks

Using PC board throw bars it's possible to add doublers to lap over the rail base. I use thin brass stock and cut small pieces for each side then solder them on top of the PC board lapping up onto the rail base....DaveB 

copper pin to secure points on the throw bar

A friend showed me a useful trick to keep the points attached to the throwbar.  Drill a hole through the throw bar where you soldered the point to the throw bar and insert a short piece of copper wire into the hole.  Solder the wire in place and it provides additional strength to keep the points from detaching from the throwbar.  Cut through the copper cladding on the throw bar on both sides to prevent shorts and you're good to go.  This has worked well on my layout.  

Marc Simpson

Soldered Points

I have used the fast track method of soldered points to the pc board ties. I initially had one or two that failed after installation, probably due to a bad solder job. Since then, for 6 or more years I have never had a problem with any of them. If they do fail, it is a simple job to resolder the points. I don't see the need for anything more elaborate, the simple solder joint works.

Pin logic

I have found that the soldered pin through the throw gives some extra strength to take the strain of pushing against the rail.  It only takes an extra couple of minutes to do and gives a much stronger mechanical joint than just solder on the copper cladding.  

Marc Simpson

soldering turnout points

Newspaper also works well and may be a little easier with which to work (not sure about that).  The newspaper tends to absorb the heated flux and pretty well disintegrates as you remove it.  As always a thorough cleaning using alcohol is required, and I find graphite (powdered or liquid) effectively lubricates the sliding surfaces and looks like the grease used on the prototype.  Brass shim stock of .010" thickness can be easily formed to lay on top of the throw bar with the edge lapping over the base of the point rail.  This vastly increases the surface area and therefor strength of the joint.  Ted Shasta